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Final tweaking of a 1959SLP Re-issue..

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  • Final tweaking of a 1959SLP Re-issue..

    I've had a 1996 1959SLP for a few years now; it came to me already modified, albeit badly, so I figured why not go to town..

    I've modified the amp to '68 (roughly) specs slowly over the years. No master volume mod (I removed that recently in favour of a TAD Silencer). The last thing I did was to lower the filtering to '68 spec. For all intents and purposes, the circuit is identical to a '68 Lead - but with a couple of necessary tweaks as you will see.

    The amp does sound great.. but it's not quite there yet - I have been using a Firebird with vintage style 'bird pickups (pots are 250k's) for a while now and everything is just a little too bright for my taste.. it's right on the cusp of being ok.. so I'm looking for some minor tweaks to just shave off a little top end. I recently upped the 47pf cap across the PI to 200pf, which was a subtle but noticeable improvement. I've upped the swamp resistors to 10k, which helped a little too. So I don't want to alter the character of the amp by changing things too much - just subtle little tweaks.

    I like the nature of the breakup with the presence dimed for example, but it's ear bleedingly bright with my Firebird that way.. so I'd like to get it to a point where I can make more use of the EQ and presence in a positive way.. rather than just backing off the treble and presence all the time.

    I wondered about upping the 2n2 coupler on the normal channel to 3n3 or 4n7, plus upping the couplers after the PI to 33nf or 47nf. I'd thought about adding another small value cap (50-200pf) from grid to plate of V1 like the old Sovtek MIGs do.

    One thing I did notice last time I was inside - the heater voltages were on the low side <6v.. around 5.6v if I remember correctly. There isn't much I can do about that I suppose, but I have wondered if that has any negative effect? The amp sounds full, the bottom end is as you would imagine - huge, almost too much. The bass control is a typical Marshall on or off switch.

    What do you guys reckon?

  • #2
    Originally posted by sickman82 View Post
    One thing I did notice last time I was inside - the heater voltages were on the low side <6v.. around 5.6v if I remember correctly. There isn't much I can do about that I suppose, but I have wondered if that has any negative effect?
    I don't know if I can help with the Firebird issues, the mods you suggest are confusing without a schematic that has designators, C3 R12 etc. For the heater Voltage, check it at each tube. You will probably see that it drops at each power tube before it gets to the preamp. In an amp I had with this problem, I upgraded the heater wires with #16 (1.29mm) aircraft wire and that made a huge difference. It was difficult to squeeze the wires into the tube socket terminals, take your time and clean the old solder off as much as you can.

    Edit: You can use smaller wire from the last power tube to and between the preamp tubes or just leave the factory wires.
    WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
    REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply!

      I just checked all voltages this morning, see the chart (hand written and a little cramped but it gives you an idea). Voltages look good other than the heaters.. worse than I remembered.. 5.2-5.4v.

      Also, see the schematic link. This is a 1959HW re-issue schematic, but it's virtually the same circuit so we can use that. With regard to mods:

      C4 - 4n7
      C12 & C14 - 47nf
      Add a cap from the grid (2) of V1 to the plate (1) of V1

      I've already upped C13 to 200pf with good results. With regard to swamp resistors, R34 and R37 on the schematic.. I have 10K on each EL34 grid now.

      Hope this clears things up.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	SLP Voltages.jpg
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ID:	8418251959_Hand_Wired.pdfClick image for larger version

Name:	SLP Voltages.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	214.6 KB
ID:	8418251959_Hand_Wired.pdf

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      • #4
        Interestingly, when I switch to 220v from 230v the heater voltage is within spec at 6v across the board. The HT jumps up to 520v though, but all readings are within operating parameters. I'll need to fit a fan on the back of the amp though.. I could fry my breakfast on the chassis at 480v!

        In the long run it's worth my time to disconnect the heater supply from the PT and measure it coming straight off to see if it's the transformer.. If it reads 6-7v then I know it's something in the amp that is causing the low voltage.

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