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Thread: NEW/OLD SOLARUS - Question - New to forum too! WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!!

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    NEW/OLD SOLARUS - Question - New to forum too! WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!!

    Hi gents!!!

    I've been a long time fan of Sunn. My first amp was a Sentura II... bought it in 1977, when I was 17, with money earned while pumping gas.
    Then, I sold it, along with my analog recording gear in 1998 and I'm still kicking myself for doing so.

    After going through a variety of amps, Marshall, Peavey, Yamaha, Fender, Roland, Randall, Hi-Tone (Hiwatt clone that I still have and love), I just bought a Solarus!!! YEAH MAN!!!
    I just love the way a cranked Sunn sounds through a pair of EV SROs... it's like heaven on Earth!!! I'm back in the Sunn saddle again!

    The amp is in good condition and it only needs a new 1000uF cap (on order from Mouser).
    However, someone removed the RCA connectors for the verb/trem foot switch and I plan on restoring this.

    Here's my first question: There is a lone, RCA jack on the back. It has a single yellow wire that goes to a small, wire size hole, in the top of the trem PC board ... anyone know what this does????
    I haven't seen it on any Sunn Amp before and I won't have a chance to hook it up to a switch until next week.

    Second question: Does anyone know the bias values for a 1969 Solarus with EL34s?

    Gut shot:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mystery jack:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Glad to be here and thanks for your help!!!

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Welcome to MEF.

    If the wire goes to the Trem board, it may be that it turns the Tremelo On & Off.
    You will have to trace where it goes.

    As to biasing EL34's: I would set them according to the B+ voltage.
    It is not a critical setting.
    Does this model have the 7199 PI tube?

    Solarus.pdf

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    Last edited by Jazz P Bass; 06-20-2016 at 04:22 PM.

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    Supporting Member loudthud's Avatar
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    The yellow wire is the tremolo footswitch. A simple switch to ground turns off the tremolo. The Reverb footswitch shorted the Reverb tank output to ground turning off the reverb.

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    WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
    REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
    Welcome to MEF.

    If the wire goes to the Trem board, it may be that it turns the Tremelo On & Off.
    You will have to trace where it goes.

    As to biasing EL34's: I would set them according to the B+ voltage.
    It is not a critical setting.
    Does this model have the 7199 PI tube?

    Solarus.pdf


    Thanks for the reply Jazz P Bass!

    I am guessing that the lone RCA jack is for turning the Trem On & Off, as well. I'm putting off turning the amp back on until I have a chance to install the new caps.
    I was a bit baffled because, the lone RCA jack looks original, while there is also a space for the Trem & Reverb On & Off jacks where the Foot Switch opening is. Doesn't make sense that the amp would have two On/Off jacks for the Trem. Very curious indeed!

    My Solarus came with a single, 7199 PI tube. As soon as I saw that, I ordered two NOS General Electric 7199's on fleaBay.... I took a hosing on the price but, I now have enough 7199s to last me into my not so far off old age!

    Thanks for the link to the schematics - it's very much appreciated.
    Cheers!

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    Last edited by AjaxLepinski; 06-22-2016 at 02:54 AM.
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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loudthud View Post
    The yellow wire is the tremolo footswitch. A simple switch to ground turns off the tremolo. The Reverb footswitch shorted the Reverb tank output to ground turning off the reverb.

    Shorting the Reverb tank output to ground is awesome information!
    I plan on restoring the two foot switch jacks and I had no idea how to go about wiring verb into the jacks.

    I'm really glad I found this site and I'm happy that there are other Sunn fans out there.

    Thanks loudthud!!!

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  6. #6
    Supporting Member loudthud's Avatar
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    The original dual footswitch jack was phenolic and easy to break if you stepped on the footswitch cord.

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    WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
    REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

  7. #7
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loudthud View Post
    The original dual footswitch jack was phenolic and easy to break if you stepped on the footswitch cord.
    It's surprising that a 47 year old amp doesn't have more wrong with it. Conrad made great sounding amps but, I guess better jack mounts were in order!

    Do you own any Sunn amps?

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    Last edited by AjaxLepinski; 06-22-2016 at 03:24 AM.
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    Supporting Member The Dude's Avatar
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    Welcome to the place!

    On bias:

    Weber Bias Calculator

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    Welcome to the place!

    On bias:

    Weber Bias Calculator

    Cheers Dude!
    I posted the link to my favorites as I plan on rolling some EL34s to see which I like best.
    Don't let anyone pee on your carpet!

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    The caps arrived to day...yeah baby!!! If all goes well, I'll have them installed tomorrow morning and I'll post some clips.

    The two, 7199s arrived eariler in the week - the one that came with the amp seems to be OK. I just figured that it would be best to buy a couple of NOS spares before the prices get too crazy.

    I want to restore the foot switch jacks but, I'm going to have to fabricate a plate to pop-rivet in place (like the original). Being a lazy bastard, it could take a while so, I hope none of you will be holding your breath.

    Seriously, the feedback that I've received has been invaluable. I appreciate it enough to have donated $21 to the site!


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    Old Timer Tom Phillips's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AjaxLepinski View Post
    ...I want to restore the foot switch jacks but, I'm going to have to fabricate a plate to pop-rivet in place (like the original)...
    Hi Brian,
    I offer the following additional information about your rear panel jacks.

    I have seen both pop-rivets and screws used by Sunn to attach the connector mounting flanges to the chassis.
    The following photo shows the likely original configuration of your Solarus rear panel. I think your amp originally used the screws.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    As loudthud pointed out in post #6, the original dual footswitch jack was phenolic.
    There appears to be an exact replacement part available at Phono Jack-Dual Panel Mount (Item: PHOJK-CH2-4) - Radio Daze LLC
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The mystery jack that you originally asked about is a non-stock add on. Too bad someone drilled the extra hole in the chassis.

    Cheers,
    Tom

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    Last edited by Tom Phillips; 06-24-2016 at 07:19 PM.

  12. #12
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Phillips View Post
    Hi Brian,
    I offer the following additional information about your rear panel jacks.

    I have seen both pop-rivets and screws used by Sunn to attach the connector mounting flanges to the chassis.
    The following photo shows the likely original configuration of your Solarus rear panel. I think your amp originally used the screws.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Solarus Rear Jacks.jpg 
Views:	299 
Size:	353.5 KB 
ID:	39643

    As loudthud pointed out in post #6, the original dual footswitch jack was phenolic.
    There appears to be an exact replacement part available at Phono Jack-Dual Panel Mount (Item: PHOJK-CH2-4) - Radio Daze LLC
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Dual Phono Jack.jpg 
Views:	210 
Size:	44.4 KB 
ID:	39644
    The mystery jack that you originally asked about is a non-stock add on. Too bad someone drilled the extra hole in the chassis.

    Cheers,
    Tom

    Hi Tom,
    Thanks so much for your post!
    I agree with you... someone drilled the extra hole and it looks like the original RCA jacks were originally screwed in place.
    I just ordered the Dual Phono jacks from Radio Daze and after installing, I'll remove that lone RCA jack and plug the hole.
    Really glad I joined this site!
    Brian

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    Last edited by AjaxLepinski; 06-25-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    With the help of Riffraff (hey Riffraff you here too!!!!) and GAB Grimespace, I was able to removed the 600v .047uF DEATH CAP.

    Everything is working fine; the amp is quiet even when cranked to 10... and I didn't get any shocks.
    However, the reverb has what sounds like a 60 cycle, single coil pickup hum when turned up.
    If anyone has any ideas about curing the reverb hum, I'd love to hear them.

    Here is a pic of the Death Cap


    Here is a schematic I found - the Death Cap is located in the bottom right. I've read that most Sunn schematics are not always accurate. This one is fairly close.


    Another angle of the wiring


    Back of amp so you can see the power chord, extra power socket and fuse


    ...and the Death Cap removed and Polarity Switch disconnected.


    Of course, I forgot to spray the pots before putting the chassis back in the shell!!!

    The reverb has what sounds like a 60 cycle, single coil pickup hum when turned up.
    If anyone has any ideas about curing the reverb hum, I'd love to hear them.

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    Last edited by AjaxLepinski; 06-25-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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    Lifetime Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Move the reverb pan around to see if it is picking up the power transformer. The output end of the pan should be as far as possible from the power transformer. May need to end to end it. Sometimes adding a metal shield over the open side of the pan helps, even just over the output end.

    Pull the pan from the cab and get it as far from the chassis as possible at the and of the cables. Does doing this diminish the hum? If so it is likely picking up the tranny. But you could also have shielding/grounding problems with the cables. The footswitch cable can cause issues like hum, so unplug any FS to see. In fact unplug the pan cables from the chassis, still hum or hum less?

    And remember, the reverb recovery stage runs off that low voltage DC supply, which could be hummy. That is a 22v zener, so make sure the zener is zening right. Maybe add some filtration like an extra filter cap between the two 1k resistors.

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    Move the reverb pan around to see if it is picking up the power transformer. The output end of the pan should be as far as possible from the power transformer. May need to end to end it. Sometimes adding a metal shield over the open side of the pan helps, even just over the output end.

    Pull the pan from the cab and get it as far from the chassis as possible at the and of the cables. Does doing this diminish the hum? If so it is likely picking up the tranny. But you could also have shielding/grounding problems with the cables. The footswitch cable can cause issues like hum, so unplug any FS to see. In fact unplug the pan cables from the chassis, still hum or hum less?

    And remember, the reverb recovery stage runs off that low voltage DC supply, which could be hummy. That is a 22v zener, so make sure the zener is zening right. Maybe add some filtration like an extra filter cap between the two 1k resistors.
    Hey Enzo!!!
    Thanks for the input - I appreciate it. The extra cap between the two 1k resistors sounds like a great idea.
    I'm not an electrical engineer and this is my first project amp so, can you suggest a cap rating?

    The reverb didn't hum until I removed the Death Cap. Rifraff suggested jumping the red/white (neutral power) wire at the On/Off Switch to the PT's red/yellow wire ground point (where the Death Cap once grounded to the chassis). I'm going to try that tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'll try the extra cap by between the 1k resistors.

    Thanks again!

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    Lifetime Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Well don't just throw parts at it, I suggested that as a solution IN THE CASE THAT the hum is coming from that 22v supply. If the supply is not hummy, adding caps to it will do nothing.

    Having said that, I would likely chose something like 100uf 150v for between those resistors. Hell that existing filter in that supply could go up to 100uf instead of 50uf, and I;d be happy. I scope or measure the ripple on a supply like that to find out if it needs help. The cheap way is to get a suitable cap and two clip wires, and clip the extra cap into the circuit. It makes a difference or it doesn't.

    Um... DO NOT connect either side of the mains to your chassis. Just because the wiring thinks it is neutral, doesn't mean some outlet won;t be wired backwards (happens all the time), and BAM, you have a burnt socket, a melted plug, and a blown breaker.

    Schematics can be inaccurate but even then, MOST of it will be correct. Some of them have a misdrawn connection on the pentode by the phase inverter for example, but the rest of the page is right.

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Hey Enzo. No worries, I'm not impulsive and I will not be throwing parts at the amp until I sort things out.
    I'm just happy to hear suggestions to give me an idea of were to look for the reverb hum issue.
    I understand that the schematics can be incorrect and there can be circuit variations, from year-to-year, as the model is manufactured and upgraded.

    After removing the 600v .047uF Death Cap and disconnecting the Polarity Switch from the circuit, the red/yellow PT wire, from the Power Transformer no longer has a connect to the neutral power main (before removing the Death Cap, the red/yellow PT wire received neutral juice from the Polarity Switch via the 600v .047uF Death Cap).
    It has been suggested, that the red/yellow PT wire is now drawing AC from the chassis because, it is no longer in direct contact with the neutral power main via the Polarity Switch/Death Cap.
    To resupply the red/yellow PT wire with the neutral main, I have two options...
    1) Run a new wire from the white/red neutral main (where it is soldered to the Power Switch) to the chassis junction where the Blue Cap, red/yellow PT wire meet (and were the Death Cap was also connected before removal)
    2) Disconnect the red/white PT wire from it's current position and connect it directly to the white/red neutral main where it is soldered to the Power Switch. BUT, this will cause the lamp, on the Power Switch, to no longer light when the amp is on.

    The red wire (marked by blue arrow "Red wire from Hot (Black) Power") comes from the Fuse. A three prong outlet was added with the ground screwed to one PT bolt. This eliminated the need for the Polarity Switch and the Death Cap. To reiterate, before I removed the Death Cap, the red/yellow PT wire had access to the neutral main via the red/white wire going to the polarity switch going to the Death Cap going to the red/yellow wire which is bolted to the chassis. The red/white wire is used to light a bulb on the Power Switch to indicate that the amp is on.

    Actually, typing all this out has given me the confidence to go with wiring option #2. The circuitry is now clear to me and I can see that option #2 will work correctly.


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    Don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AjaxLepinski View Post
    After removing the 600v .047uF Death Cap and disconnecting the Polarity Switch from the circuit, the red/yellow PT wire, from the Power Transformer no longer has a connect to the neutral power main (before removing the Death Cap, the red/yellow PT wire received neutral juice from the Polarity Switch via the 600v .047uF Death Cap).
    It has been suggested, that the red/yellow PT wire is now drawing AC from the chassis because, it is no longer in direct contact with the neutral power main via the Polarity Switch/Death Cap.
    NO. The red-yellow of the PT has no need for any connection other than chassis. It was not receiving anything from neutral and should stay connected to chassis only.
    The light is a separate issue and should not be confused with the red/yellow of the PT.

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Hi G1,

    Thanks for the input... I am still considering the issue and appreciate your input.

    Here is a link to an article that describes the Death Cap issue: https://psg.com/~dlamkins/lamkins-gu...itch-death-cap

    I agree... the red/yellow PT wire should remain grounded especially, since that is what the schematic indicates.
    The light is indeed a separate issue - I only mentioned the Power Switch indicator light to point out that, removing the red/white wire would cause the light to stop working. The only reason the red/white line is attached to the Power Switch is to power the light and really isn't needed.

    Right now, I'm considering running a wire from the Power Switch's red/white wire, keeping the 600v .047uF cap and grounding the cap to it's original position at the bolt with the blue cap and the red/yellow PT wire. That would keep the original circuit in tact (sans Polarity Switch). Still thinking about this so, I think I'll do some more research on the Death Cap thingy.

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    Don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
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    Consider that later models such as Fender had a 3 way ground switch with a center-off position.
    The cap is not required for any reason other than removing some nuisance hum which may or may not be present.
    In cases where it is desired, there are modern caps designed specifically for this purpose (class Y for line to chassis).
    If you don't have a hum problem that the cap is correcting, I would ditch it. If you really want it, use a Class Y.

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Glad I found my way to the M-E Forum - I'm getting an awesome education!

    Class Y caps are for filtering AC noise... thanks for the heads-up g1 !
    This is my first restoration project and it's making me wish I started learning about amp repair 40 years ago.

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Just so you are aware:

    X capacitors go across the line (Hot & Neutral)

    Y capacitors go from mains to chassis.

    Back to Basics: What are Y-Capacitors? | Vicor PowerBlog

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  23. #23
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Thanks Jazz P Bass - that link was very helpful. So much to learn... it's cool and mind boggling at the same time.

    Finally had some time to play with the soldering iron yesterday.
    I have to say, it was very exciting; trying different wiring options and seeing what was going to happen... Would it work? Would it blow up? Would you read a story in tomorrow's news papers about some crazy Long Island guitarist who was hospitalized?

    I tried three different wiring options:

    1) Unhooked the red/yellow PT wire from the chassis ground point and soldered it to the Power Switch post with the white/red wire.
    Results: Nothing blew up but, it was a no go. The amp lost volume and the guitar sputtered and farted.

    2) Soldered the red/yellow PT wire back to the chassis ground point and ran a new wire from there to the Power Switch post with the white/red wire.
    This was RiffRaff's suggestion.
    Results: This worked and it sounded the same as the amp sounded with the Death Cap and Polarity Switch in the circuit.
    But, it still had the same reverb hum and there was some buzz/hum when the guitar volume was on.
    If I turned the guitar volume off, the amp was totally quiet, even with the amp volume on 10.
    The guitar buzz/hum gets completely drowned out when playing but, it does get louder as I turn up the amp volume.
    As the Tremelo did it's thing, it turned the guitar buzz/hum on and off with each trem pulse.

    At this point, I was wondering if the amp really had less reverb hum and guitar buzz/hum with the Death Cap in? So, what the heck....

    3) I put the Death Cap back in and hooked up the Polarity Switch.
    Results: Everything sounded exactly as described with #2.
    I guess the amp sounded noisy in the music store (when I was first checking it out). But, I had it cranked and that would have covered up the noise.

    Conclusion: The Death Cap can come out with the wiring as described in #2. The guitar buzz/hum and the reverb hum is coming from somewhere else.
    I've owned other amps that produced the exact same noises and I just lived with it / ignored it.
    My two, glorious, RG80's have the same noise issues. However, the Hi-Tone is as quiet as a church mouse.


    This evening, I took the amp (with the Death Cap and Polarity Switch hooked up) to band practice.
    MAJOR WOODIE!!!
    It gets super saturated and super squishy on 10 and awesome for leads. On 6 or 7, it karangs and takes power chords just fine.
    Man, I never played an amp that gets as squishy at this one. The squishyness is defiantly cool and has it's uses and it can be cut back using the guitar volume knob.
    Only drawback; at 40 or 60 watts (not sure which), it's just loud enough with a drummer and bass. My old Sunn Sentura II was louder but, it didn't get as saturated so, I'm still loving the Solarus for it's own abilities. (now I'm gassing for a Sentura II haha!!!)
    The noise wasn't noticiable while playing and I use my tuner as a kill switch so, it worked out fine.
    I hit it with the China Fuzz (Univox Super Fuzz clone) and the amp took it like a champ - it was killer. I'm very happy with my purchase!

    I'll try to make some clips this weekend to post.

    Thanks again for all the feedback and help!!!

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  24. #24
    Don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AjaxLepinski View Post
    Class Y caps are for filtering AC noise
    Class X and Y are also the only caps safety approved for use in those positions mentioned by Jazz in post #22.

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  25. #25
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Thanks again for your help, G1. I think I will copy and print all the info and links into my notebook. Yeah, man! I wish I started studying amp repair a long time ago. Still, I'm enjoying the experience.
    I'm going to clean all the jacks: input, reverb and speaker this weekend. After that, if I still get any hum, I'll start checking each cap one at a time with my capacitance meter.
    I can live with the hum but, it will be fun trying to track it down.

    Here is a pic of my gear (top to bottom) Hotone Purple Wind 5 watt Plexi amp, Sunn Solarus, Hi-Tone DR103-DG.


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  26. #26
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Phillips View Post
    Hi Brian,
    I offer the following additional information about your rear panel jacks.

    I have seen both pop-rivets and screws used by Sunn to attach the connector mounting flanges to the chassis.
    The following photo shows the likely original configuration of your Solarus rear panel. I think your amp originally used the screws.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    As loudthud pointed out in post #6, the original dual footswitch jack was phenolic.
    There appears to be an exact replacement part available at Phono Jack-Dual Panel Mount (Item: PHOJK-CH2-4) - Radio Daze LLC
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The mystery jack that you originally asked about is a non-stock add on. Too bad someone drilled the extra hole in the chassis.

    Cheers,
    Tom


    Hey Tom,

    My new RCA jacks arrived today form radiodaze.com. Only cost fifty cents plus shipping .Thanks again for your help!

    Brian

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  27. #27
    Old Timer Tom Phillips's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AjaxLepinski View Post
    Hey Tom,
    My new RCA jacks arrived today form radiodaze.com. Only cost fifty cents plus shipping .Thanks again for your help!
    Brian
    Cool. I was surprised at the low price too. There are people selling similar parts asking $5 to $10 ea or more. Some of those are salvaged parts rather than NOS. Now all you need are some vintage correct slot head screws with a nice patina that matches your chassis.

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Phillips View Post
    Cool. I was surprised at the low price too. There are people selling similar parts asking $5 to $10 ea or more. Some of those are salvaged parts rather than NOS. Now all you need are some vintage correct slot head screws with a nice patina that matches your chassis.

    I'll be needing slot head screws -and- two, original 0-10 knobs for the front. Somewhere along the line, someone put two, Fender 1-10 knobs on the front.
    Thanks again for the heads-up about Radio Daze!

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    HEAR MY SUNN SOLAUS!!!!! CLIP CLIP CLIP CLIP CLIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    If anyone is interested in hearing what the Solarus sounds like, I just made this clip today: https://soundcloud.com/ajax-lepinski...-ajax-lepinski

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    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Alrighty then....

    So, I decided to leave the so called, "Death Cap" in place. My reasoning is:
    1) The tone doesn't change, at all, with or without the cap.
    2) Since the amp is now properly grounded (with a three prong outlet), I am protected.
    3) If the cap fails, the circuit will be no more dangerous than, if the cap were removed.
    4) With the cap in place, it's available to remove ripple.

    What do you guys think? Leave it in?



    This weekend, I'll be installing the replacement footswitch RCA jacks (thanks again Tom!) and also figuring out why the reverb stopped working....
    I took the amp to band practice and hit a lot of pot holes along the way. Not only were the verb springs rattling but, there was also a "cow bell sound" coming from the tank.
    Glad I'm still having fun learning amp repair or, I'd be pissed off!


    On another note... I need two knobs so, I contacted the forum member who had ordered a batch of Sunn knobs from the original manufacturer a few years ago.
    George placed his order in 2008 and the manufacturer was able to pull up his old order to get the part number and details.
    Only issue is, they are asking $1400 for a minimum of 500 knobs! If I can't haggle them down, I'll suppose I'll have to get used to the look of 1-10 Fender Witch Hats!

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  31. #31
    Supporting Member The Dude's Avatar
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    1) It doesn't remove any ripple anyway. It's not large enough value and it's pre-rectifier.
    2) You are counting on ground actually being ground wherever you go. Wanna know how many miswired outlets I've seen or how many grounded outlets don't have the ground actually connected?
    3) "The tone doesn't change, at all, with or without the cap."
    4) It's called a death cap for a reason. Be safe. Get that sucker out of there.

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    Lifetime Member Enzo's Avatar
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    Amen.

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  33. #33
    Supporting Member AjaxLepinski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    1) It doesn't remove any ripple anyway. It's not large enough value and it's pre-rectifier.
    2) You are counting on ground actually being ground wherever you go. Wanna know how many miswired outlets I've seen or how many grounded outlets don't have the ground actually connected?
    3) "The tone doesn't change, at all, with or without the cap."
    4) It's called a death cap for a reason. Be safe. Get that sucker out of there.


    Hey Dude!!!!
    Thanks for the input - it is sincerely welcome.
    I have a long way to go with my amp repair studies! Not all caps remove ripple.... every time I learn something new it makes me realize how little I know.

    The thing is, as I mentioned in one of the above posts, when I take the death cap out, the amp doesn't work....
    The neutral line comes from the power cord and connects to the on/off switch (for the on/off switch pilot light). From there, the neutral goes to the polarity switch, and finally to the cap which connects to the ground point with the red/yellow PT wire..
    If I remove the cap and the polarity switch from the circuit, I have to run a wire from the neutral line at the on/off switch, directly to the ground point with the red/yellow PT wire (to get the amp to work).
    However, in one of the above posts, someone said, "never connect the neutral directly to the chassis".

    Can anyone can suggest a way to keep the amp working, after removing the cap -and- without connecting the neutral to the aforementioned ground point on the chassis?
    I welcome all suggestions.

    Here's my point... if, in the original circuit design, the only component between the chassis and the neutral supply is the cap, it won't be any more dangerous if the cap fails than it would of I connect the neutral to the ground point (where it winds up in the original design). At the moment, I figure, it would be safer to leave the cap in.... until I know where that neutral line needs to go (after the on/off switch).
    I'm hoping that I don't have to take it to the local tech. We have an excellent repair shop on Long Island that specialized in old guitar amps, including Sunn but, they are EXPENSIVE!!!

    Here is a vid that explains why the Death Cap may or, may not be dangerous (depending on the circuit). It also explains how to check the amount of voltage, leaking to the chassis, to help you decide if you need to remove the cap or, if it is safe to leave it in.
    I'll be taking some measurements this weekend.



    Here is a revised pic - I labeled the red wire going to the on/off switch (Pwr Swtch) more accurately.

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    Last edited by AjaxLepinski; 07-20-2016 at 02:03 AM.
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  34. #34
    Supporting Member The Dude's Avatar
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    AC neutral does not connect to the chassis. The ground from the AC cord does. I've redrawn primary portion of the circuit from the schematic you posted above. The polarity switch will no longer do anything and is also removed from the circuit. You don't need it with an actual grounded AC cord. You can use pins on the switch as a terminal strip if need be (so that wires reach), but it will no longer be in circuit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lifetime Member Enzo's Avatar
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    If you have to ground neutral, you have something miswired. As to the cap, just snip it out, you can leave the ground toggle switch if you like, it won;t do anything though.

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