Another rookie repair fixed right

[gui_tarzan]

I don't have an after shot, suffice it to say I replaced the two F&T caps on this friend's amp to fix a shoddy, amateurish repair by someone that at least used good caps. The person simply clipped the leads and soldered the new caps on the old leads so they didn't have to remove the board. It's an HRD so it's a pain to get the board out but still...

And you can guess what happened underneath the board. Yep, the connections became unsoldered.

[The Dude]

I've got a Randall amp in the shop right now. Here's a picture of one of the output transistors (there are 4). The same thing was done as your caps. Rather than remove the board and do it right, they tacked all of the transistor legs onto the old ones. I couldn't get the best picture because the emitter resistors are in the way. I'm waiting for a reverb tank and then I'll fix all of the crappy work at the same time.

[nsubulysses]

I'll share this one from a few days back. Twin reverb recap with some wrong value caps and leads clipped and new caps soldered to the old leads. I hoped it was some up and comer, not junky work someone paid good money for from a shop. Who knows. Almost nothing could be easier to work with than power supply on eyelet board

[The Dude]

Good God! I fail to see why anyone would do that! It seems actually more work to do it wrong on an eyelet board.

[bob p]

Good God! I fail to see why anyone would do that! It seems actually more work to do it wrong on an eyelet board.

PSU eyelet boards are easy. Here's an example of an eyelet board rat's nest that I am not looking forward to taking out.



edit: i don't know why the picture isn't coming up.

[Justin Thomas]

And at least turn all the caps so the values are in plain sight!

Justin

[xtian]

And at least turn all the caps so the values are in plain sight!

OCD! OK, fine, that's me, too.

I also feel it's important to orient all the resistor color codes in the same direction...

[J M Fahey]

Well, not THAT strong OCD
Resistors can be read either way; reading a cap label if sandwiched between cap body and board is slightly harder

I´ll delete this post and apologize the day filter caps come labelled with colour bands

[Justin Thomas]

I do find the half-watt metal film five-banders to be quite confusing sometimes... And yes, I do my best to point them all in the same direction, but that also gets pretty hairy when you (I) build true PTP...

Justin

[gui_tarzan]

I make sure the cap leads are all straight and neatly bent to the right angles too. I don't know why, it makes no difference to anyone but me.

[Richard]

It's so cool to see someone do a really nice layout.

[xtian]

I've seen no modern builder with greater OCD-fu than Bruce at BC amps:

[Justin Thomas]

Funny, the initials match another Bruce... Maybe that's why we haven't heard from him for a while?

Justin

Edit: Nope, just checked...

[Chuck H]

Well I guess this is a thread for the OCDers (me too, actually, but in a different way) so I'm going to admit right now that I HAVE soldered new filters to the old ones leads, BUT... It was a Mesa product WITHOUT the board mounted tube sockets and I'd have had to remove the leads from every socket, jack, switch and pot. Screw that. I did, however, wrap the connections to each other rather than just tack solder and I heat sinked the old leads with pliers below the joint before applying the iron. I used a hot iron and got in and out fast to avoid problems with the pads below. And, of course, I tested for both electrical and physical stability. Just owning up. I don't care if anyone else here "couldn't possibly even think it". It was a practical way to handle it with a reasonable effort. And that makes me smart, not lazy.

Doing it on an eyelet board is lazy.

[The Dude]

Oh, I've done it under similar circumstances. But, as you say, if you must, don't just tack the leads with solder and expect that to hold. Wrap the leads, then solder.

Something else I've done: If the board is mounted solder side up and there's say an open resistor or something on the bottom/component side. I've unsoldered the resistor, shaken it out of the chassis, and just soldered the new one on the solder side rather than remove the entire board. IMO, it's just as solid of a connection either way.

And agreed: Doing this on an eyelet board boggles the mind.