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Help wiring power transformer Transformer

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  • Help wiring power transformer Transformer

    I'm trying figure out the wiring to use this hammond 290GX in an old frankenstein jmp sort of build I have here kicking around .
    https://www.hammfg.com/files/parts/pdf/290GX.pdf

    so on the secondary side
    the 2 reds go the the rectifier bridge
    & the smaller black (COM) im guessing that's the tap goes grounded
    for the heaters
    large Black & orange go to the heaters
    & the brown is Grounded
    Hope this is correct so far ?
    so the Primary as this amp is used in North America will be using 120v the Orange & Yellow will be taped off & heat shrinked .
    So my main Question is the Com or Blue wire .Where should I solder this wire ? & where should I solder the final black wire ( I figure the Black being the 120v should go the mains fuse & then to the plug ?

  • #2
    Anyone ?

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    • #3
      primary common (blu) goes to AC line neutral (power cord white)
      primary black (hot) goes to mains fuse
      smaller black of secondary is center tap for high voltage winding (2 reds)
      It would get grounded with full-wave rectification

      You mentioned bridge, not sure what you are building and what kind of high voltage you are expecting
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #4
        Ii's an old Jcm 800 clone /maybe have been a kit that someone had there way with & the Power transformer was missing .It looks close to all the schematics & layouts I've seen .
        I wired in the transformer as to the layout & using a dimbulb & it has a 120v pilot light thats on whither the amp is on or off & when i turn the amp on my dim bulb shines pretty bright as to suggest a short .
        So I'm trying to make sure the power transformer is correct

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        • #5
          If the schematic of your amp looks like the attached with a Full Wave Bridge, it won't work with the 290GX without modification.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	Marshall_2203_FWB.GIF
Views:	1
Size:	29.4 KB
ID:	845298
          WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
          REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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          • #6
            It's pretty much identical to this Ceritone 2204 layout except the preamp 50/50uf cap is on the chassis in under the turret board
            JCM 800 2203, 2204 Layout
            & the diodes are layed out the same way ,I soldered the high voltage to red wires to them as in the layout

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            • #7
              Seems like you are connecting the whole secondary of that PT to a bridge rectifier. That will make the B+ way too high. You need to use a standard full wave center tapped rectifier with that PT which is easy to do. Would be best if you would post the schematic of your build here.

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              • #8
                Need a Schematic ,Here's one I've been using
                "UP here in the Canada we shoot things we don't understand"

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                • #9
                  OK, the 290GX is compatible with the Ceriatone 2204 layout. B+ will be a little higher since the Hammond is 345-0-345 and the Ceriatone is 325-0-325.

                  So the wrong rectifier circuit is not the cause of the bright bulb in the limiter. Is that first 50 + 50 capacitor rated at 500V?
                  WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
                  REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks that's better than the schematic I've been using . so in this schematic as you can see the diodes from the standby switch which i would run the high voltage of the 290gx to these diodes that are exactly like in the schematic . So your saying I will need to alter this for my transformer if so what would i need ?

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                    • #11
                      I fixed the problem with the pilot light by running it to the Neutral of the plug & I went & bought a 250watt heat bulb & I was using a modem spiral 60 watt & now not short detected when i power up .
                      New tubes but no sound at all ...Will take some readings & go over everything

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If you were using a spiral fluorescent tube i don't think that is correct, you need the old style incandescent bulb with a filament.

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                        • #13
                          Correct the spiral bulb showed a short right away but i went & bought a old style 250watt red heat lamp light the only one in the hardware store so maybe these old lights style are getting scarce .
                          but the new light showed no short . still i have no sound at , no hum or buzz & not a pop & voltages are on the high side not sure , all heaters are working 2.9 to 3v from heater to ground but on V1 it don't glow or get warm like the rest of the tubes . & no voltage on v1 pin 8 coming off the .68 uf cap .

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                          • #14
                            250 watt?

                            A hardware store should have "rough service" bulbs. Those are used in "trouble lights", the bulb on the end of an extension cord, like a mechanic uses under your car. Those come in wattages from like 40-150 watts. Even my local mega store has those. Meijer, it is like a Wal MArt with groceries.
                            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                            • #15
                              No everything is the New type bulbs even all the new flood type has a all kinds of crap in them & not like a traditional bulb

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