Strat truss rod allen key size

[Chevy]

Hi Guys!

Top of the morning to you. Would anyone know the exact size of allen key required for the truss rod adjustment on a 2007 Fender Highway One guitar? Also need the size of the bridge saddle allen wrench.

Thank you kindly!


Chevy

[Paleo Pete]

Sorry it took so long, I originally saw your post a few days ago at 2AM and I was ready to hit the sack, then forgot about it...

My Strat is a Korean Squier, but maybe it's the same. For the truss rod a 5/32" fits great, bridge saddles a 1/16" is tight but works, it might be metric and I can't find my metric set at the moment.

Be very careful tinkering with the truss rod, it's easy to break and very costly to repair, very possibly more than the guitar is worth unless it's a high end axe. Put a drop of oil in and let it sit overnight before trying to adjust it, then LOOSEN it first, in case the threads are rusted tight. Most truss rods are not oiled at the factory and will probably be tight anyway, and usually they haven't been even looked at in years, so rust is very likely. 3 in 1 oil works fine, and it only needs a drop into the threads. If you can take the nut off completely, that's even better for oiling, but not absolutely required.

EDIT: Never never turn the truss rod nut more than 1/4 turn at a time, then let it sit at least overnight so everything can settle. I usually wait a week before further adjustments.

If you are the least bit unsure if you can adjust a truss rod correctly and without mishap, take it to a pro.

[Dr. Guitar]

It absolutely is not the same as a Korean. 1/8" for the typical American rod.

It's not an adjustment for the layman.

[ivanmax]

Not sure

Hi,

Apparently a 1/8 key will fit the truss rod but the owner of a music shop told me that measure is not the actual one needed. It seems the guys at Fender have their own keys made and they can only be bought from them. Standard Allen keys are no good. Another way of making money.

A 1/8 fits in the truss rod of my SRV strat but it moves a lot and I am really afraid of causing damage.

Be aware, if you damage the truss rod repairing it will be so expensive that you will better buy a new guitar!

I found a place where fender allen keys are sold, but I don´t really know if posting that place here is allowed. If you need one just send me a private message and I will send you a link.

[jrfrond]

I've solved ALL of my Allen Key issues with guitars by purchasing two relatively inexpensive ball-end hex key sets by Bondhus. By using the long ball-end in the truss rod nut, and slipping a small nut driver over the small "L" portion for leverage. This was spurred on by the new-found popularity of the 4mm hex truss rod that is in so many guitars.

Stew-Mac has these sets real cheap. I bought mine years ago in Ace Hardware.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wr..._Hex_Keys.html

[Jim Darr]

I agree…truss rod adjustments are not for the layman. However, if you decide to adjust it yourself make sure your have good snug fit with the allen key. Take note of the starting position of the nut and make ONLY small adjustments at a time…1/8 turn max at a time. Then check for neck corrections. Sighting the neck for straightness is a whole other discussion.

Be very careful as I’ve seen a lot of snapped rods where it wasn’t done carefully and correctly.

Jim

[m1active]

You can get them in Ebay

Hi,

You can get those keys in Ebay for about 5 bucks. There it goes an advert:

FENDER USA STRATOCASTER AMERICAN STANDARD ALLEN KEYS - eBay (item 250477928911 end time Aug-12-09 03:07:17 PDT)

Hope the advert is still on when you check it.

Apparently Fender keys don´t have a standard measure, so you had better go for the real thing.

Hope that helps.

Paul

[Blinker]

I measured the ones that came with my Mexican Standard Strat :

Bridge = 0.058" = 1.47mm

Truss Rod = 0.186" = 4.72mm

And for a Mex Jass Bass :

Bridge = 0.061" = 1.55mm

[Bruce Johnson]

I measured the ones that came with my Mexican Standard Strat :

Bridge = 0.058" = 1.47mm

Truss Rod = 0.186" = 4.72mm

And for a Mex Jass Bass :

Bridge = 0.061" = 1.55mm

Based on those numbers, the Standard Strat bridge key is 1.5mm, the truss rod key is 3/16", and the Jazz Bass bridge key is 1/16". The keys are always a few thousandths' under the nominal wrench size.

Fender doesn't use any secret special sizes for their hex sockets. That's a silly rumor. They mix inch and metric sizes, depending on where the parts come from. There also is some tolerance and slop in the hex sockets in their parts, often depending on where those parts were made. The hex sockets in parts like truss rod nuts are cut with a process called rotary broaching, which requires a good accurate setup. If the tooling is worn or out of alignment, you get oversized hex sockets.

The "special" Allen wrenches that they sell aren't special sizes, they're just good quality wrenches that are within the correct size tolerance. Cheapo hex key wrenches from Harbor Freight, etc., will often be undersized as well as too soft or too brittle. That's when you get in trouble. A cheap undersized key in a slightly oversized socket is what strips them out.

A cheapo hex key wrench can also be over the spec size, due to burrs on the end or being plated too thick. This can also cause a stripout in a roundabout way. Suppose you're trying to adjust that bridge screw that needs a 1/16" wrench. You try to use the 1/16" wrench from your Harbor Freight set, but it won't go in. So, you assume that it's metric and use a 1.5mm wrench. That's too small, and it quickly rounds off the wrench and damages the screw.

My point is that when you have a screw where no standard inch or metric wrench seems to fit, the problem is most likely with the wrenches themselves. They are out of spec or damaged. You need to have good quality wrenches, particularly in the smaller sizes. The tolerances are tight.

[peter08]

The hex sockets in parts like truss rod nuts are cut with a process called rotary broaching, which requires a good accurate setup.

This video shows how rotary broaching makes those little hex holes:

[guitarbuilder]

Thanks guys, now I know a little about how that is done.

[dg678]

That's not entirely true. Any Guitar tech will tell you you can do a 1/4 turn at a time and then let it rest for a day.

[David Schwab]

Any Guitar tech will tell you you can do a 1/4 turn at a time and then let it rest for a day.

I wouldn't. The first problem is people just turn the truss rod adjuster and often turn it too much. You have to manually bend the neck into the shape you want and then turn the rod. The rod is not meant to move the neck, just hold it there. If the neck had a bad bow, using a clamp and some wood is the way to go, like this:



I often do about a half turn, and then leave it for a bit. But there's no need to leave it overnight unless you adjusted it too much, in which case you will ned to adjust it again.

[dg678]

if you clamp your neck it will put unnecessary stress on the wood which will in turn put unecessary stress on the threads of the truss rod once the clamp is released. That`s why you should only do a quarter turn at a time.

[David Schwab]

if you clamp your neck it will put unnecessary stress on the wood which will in turn put unecessary stress on the threads of the truss rod once the clamp is released. That`s why you should only do a quarter turn at a time.

No it wont, why would it? That doesn't even make sense. The clamp is doing what the strings and truss rod are doing, except the rod is NOT meant to pull the neck straight, just to counteract the tension of the strings. This is now people get into trouble and over tighten their rods.

You turn it as much as you need it, but don't just turn it and sit back and wait. Get the neck into alignment and then adjust the rod. That puts LESS stress on the neck because you aren't using the rod to do the work. Using the rod to move the neck puts more stress on it, and when people don't get an movement they over tighten it. If you bend the neck where you want it, and give the rod a little bit of a turn, it will stay out and you don't have to wait over night for the neck to move, which is an indication that the rod can't do it alone. Also that does you no good when you have to go and play a gig in an hour, does it?

That illustration is from Dan Erlewine. Dan certainly knows his stuff. Also if you read the old Rickenbacker instructions that came with their instruments they told you to bend the neck over your leg while someone else tightens the rod.

I've been doing this since 1973, so I can assure you it works and doesn't strip out any truss rod nuts.