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FrankenSTRAT advice.

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  • #16
    To redrill the body holes (since they'll overlap) you'll want to plug them 1st. I'd flush the plugs on the finish side so any sanding/ shaving for length is on the raw wood inside the neck pocket.
    You can insert cut nails or anything that fits your neck screw holes and protrudes a little. Then put the neck in the pocket and either press down good with your hands or tap it lightly with a deadblow or other plastic non marring hammer.
    Then drill through from the pocket side with the finish side held firmly against a flat surface to minimise chipping.
    Make sure your neck plate will cover your work. If not, I'd consider plugging and redrilling the neck.

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    • #17
      Thanks ric.. mm.. can do the body to a sufficient standard now: Im just reticent about the neck resale value if I dowel/ redrill the 4 holes 1/8" away from orig ones. The new holes bar one will just touch the dowell edges, bar one which will cut into it maybe 1/3rd. I can see it being a big prob getting the neck aligned perfectly doing the body, plus the finish is bound to bodge up around holes.

      I did do this job before on the prior neck.. but I found the dowel I used poor quality (Id assume) as the new holes were not dead solid 1/2 into some of them.

      What I need is a high quality very hard dowel to do the neck holes, ones that can be confidently redrilled bang into their centres if I need to sell neck on as was, or as resale-as-near-as-it-orig-was.

      Anyone in UK got any dowels that fit the bill I could buy from them?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post
        I did do this job before on the prior neck.. but I found the dowel I used poor quality (Id assume) as the new holes were not dead solid 1/2 into some of them.

        What I need is a high quality very hard dowel to do the neck holes, ones that can be confidently redrilled bang into their centres if I need to sell neck on as was, or as resale-as-near-as-it-orig-was.

        Anyone in UK got any dowels that fit the bill I could buy from them?
        On the last one I did I used several cocktail sticks tapped in and secured with Evostick Resin W wood glue. Cut them off flush with side cutters before the glue sets then sand it level after the glue dries. I had no problems. The cocktail sticks were very hard wood.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dave H View Post
          On the last one I did I used several cocktail sticks tapped in and secured with Evostick Resin W wood glue. Cut them off flush with side cutters before the glue sets then sand it level after the glue dries. I had no problems. The cocktail sticks were very hard wood.
          But what if the new hole is on the edge of, or overlaps these cocktail sticks 'plug'? They will likely be compromised wouldn't they? where were your new holes relative to these?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post
            But what if the new hole is on the edge of, or overlaps these cocktail sticks 'plug'? They will likely be compromised wouldn't they? where were your new holes relative to these?
            The holes were on the edge. I let the glue dry overnight before sanding then used an automatic centre punch and drilled a small pilot hole to make sure the drill didn't wander off. It was fine, the glue doesn't become hard and brittle and it stops the sticks splitting. I've done the same on scratchplate holes that didn't quite line up.

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            • #21
              Ah good idea re. the scratchplate holes.. these always concern me tbh.

              Ok took the plunge with the cocktail sticks with 5 min cheapo epoxy.. & just finished in fact: results.. fantastic/ what a result. Neck plays a dream, minimal intonation adjustment tho plays good as is, just the 6 bridge H to lower by a tad.

              I might keep these p'ups then (just found some off white covers that fit better) & just go for a really good scratchplate instead. Do squier plates (as is most likely this body so true a strat shape it is, & with body holes a bit off) & fender orig's marry up?

              Then I need a good saddle/ whole bridge job. I wonder if my block it attatches to underneath (this I know is a chinese cheapo squier) will fit onto a fender bridge section? & then the Q is if a fender one fits the squier holes.. but maybe could do the cocktail stick trick again if not.

              Then a fender nickel input oval thingy, fender nickel strap buttons- done.

              Cheers- will post a pic tmrw of it so far.

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              • #22
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                • #23
                  Looks good. Two color sunburst, single ply pickguard, vintage Kluson style tuners, dark board, tinted headstock. What's not to like.

                  If a jazzmaster neck is a short scale, you've got my idea of the perfect strat.

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                  • #24
                    No its not.. the bit larger headstock is only thing that bugs me slightly. But considering this cost me £270 (neck £210, body £40, cheapo squier the rest of bits from £10- I can't really complain!).

                    The neck deep lacquer, what MIJ best for, matches perfectly with the deep body laQ.. so a seamless neck > body match which is a terrific result.

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