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  • #16
    OK here's the picture. The bias balance is on your right and the hum balance is on the left. These caps are in the heater circuit, just in a funny place. It complicates the adjustable bias business a little.Click image for larger version

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    • #17
      That's ok, they're just using the casing (ground), not to the actual pot lugs. They are connected to the heater wires as on the schematic.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        Exactly.

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        • #19

          I think pdf64 and myself both had the impression they were going to the pot lugs as well as the casing.
          If they are in the way I'm sure another ground spot would suffice.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #20
            Originally posted by g1 View Post

            I think pdf64 and myself both had the impression they were going to the pot lugs as well as the casing.
            If they are in the way I'm sure another ground spot would suffice.

            We are talking about the same thing, but maybe I didn't communicate it accurately enough.

            I'd like to abandon the bias balance/bias adjust control idea, and instead install test points and a separate pot for adjustment.

            It looks like the ideal spot would be where the ground switch is located, because it is located close to the output tubes. I have a three conductor cord which is factory installed, so I can't see any issues there that need to be addressed.

            Please feel free to let me know if this is a bad idea.

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            • #21
              You need to keep the bias balance control or you'll always have hum issues from not being able to cancel out the power supply ripple that gets to the screen node. On my 135W Twin I removed the "line out" jack and put a standard Fender-style bias pot in that location, though it's a pretty tight fit.

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              • #22
                I like having a balance AND adjust in my Fenders! Matched tubes? I don't need no stinking matched tubes!

                Justin
                "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
                "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
                "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by potatofarmer View Post
                  You need to keep the bias balance control or you'll always have hum issues from not being able to cancel out the power supply ripple that gets to the screen node. On my 135W Twin I removed the "line out" jack and put a standard Fender-style bias pot in that location, though it's a pretty tight fit.
                  Oh yeah definitely.. Like on a Twin amp or The twin, that kind of set up.

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