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Thread: LP Jr knock off?

  1. #36
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Bridge posts are in with bridge groundwire. Given my track record for "slightly" off neck placements I clamped it up first before gluing and checked the intonation with a fresh G string. Spot on! I need to sand the bottom of the neck tenon a tiny bit to make the top level. Then it's time for glue.... I'll completely assemble and play it before I start painting it. But I think it will be fine.
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  2. #37
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
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    Bridge posts are in with bridge groundwire. Given my track record for "slightly" off neck placements I clamped it up first before gluing and checked the intonation with a fresh G string. Spot on! I need to sand the bottom of the neck tenon a tiny bit to make the top level. Then it's time for glue.... I'll completely assemble and play it before I start painting it. But I think it will be fine.
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    Test..

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  3. #38
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Test

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  4. #39
    Better Tone thru Mathematics bob p's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
    Test
    You're going to have to turn it up louder, I can't hear it.

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    "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

    "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

  5. #40
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Something weird is going on with this thread. It wonít advance to the next page.

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  6. #41
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Ok all glued strung and set up. Ready for paint. Everything lined up perfectly. Plays great except for one tiny issue. I didn't recheck the bottom limit of the string height adjustment after removed wood from the bottom of the neck tendon to make the top flat and the fretboard not elevated. It turns out that these cheap Badass clones are quite a bit higher (it even said that in the online product review) than the original so the action is a just a bit higher than my liking. I have a real Badass I could put on it or I could sink the inserts a bit or even just grind the bottom lip off of the posts and screw the bridge flush to the inserts or just put an original type bridge on it. I'll play at a bit before deciding. It tunes, intonates, and plays fine. I randomly switch to slide anyway and prefer my action on the high side. For those of you considering building one of these, I have about $250 into it sans the pickup. I have several I could put in it but I'm going to put a dog eared P90 I have laying around in it when some screws and such arrive from Stewmac. I'll play it at a couple of gigs ugly. Then it's paint, a replica waterslide for the headstock, a clear coat, and a pick guard. Probably will cut my own pickguard first and get a replica later. I'm deciding if I'm going to cut off that excess rosewood into the body. Also have a Tusque nut laying around I can put on it.

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    Last edited by olddawg; 04-13-2018 at 01:16 AM.

  7. #42
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    For anyone that's interested I ended up filling the lower lip off of an extra set of bridge posts I had. This allowed me to screw that rediculously high cheap $14 Badass clone down nearly flush to the body and brought the action down to where I wanted it. It also made a tighter mounting of the bridge and made it set flatter. Kind of like an expensive locking bridge. Also only had to do it on the low E side.

    EDIT I finally did this to dial this beast in with the cheap bridge.* I filed the lower lip off of both posts and also filed a little length off of the bottom. I can fine adjust the height with the appropriate chrome plated washer if necessary. The bridge now lays perfectly flat and is tightly secured to the inserts. When I'm finally done with it I will cut short those ridiculous long flat head screws stiking out the back. An hour with a file really makes a difference. If anyone has a template for the pick guard available I would really appreciate it?


    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
    For anyone that's interested I ended up filling the lower lip off of an extra set of bridge posts I had. This allowed me to screw that rediculously high cheap $14 Badass clone down nearly flush to the body and brought the action down to where I wanted it. It also made a tighter mounting of the bridge and made it set flatter. Kind of like an expensive locking bridge. Also only had to do it on the low E side.
    Since you can't seem to edit a post after a day or so... I finally did this to dial this beast in with the cheap bridge.* I filed the lower lip off of both posts and also filed a little length off of the bottom. I can fine adjust the height with the appropriate chrome plated washer if necessary. The bridge now lays perfectly flat and is tightly secured to the inserts. When I'm finally done with it I will cut short those ridiculous long flat head screws stiking out the back. An hour with a file really makes a difference. If anyone has a template for the pick guard available I would really appreciate it?



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    Original photo before cropping and resizing to 799◊599 for in-line display in this post:

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    Last edited by Steve A.; 04-15-2018 at 01:43 AM. Reason: Requested by olddawg

  8. #43
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
    For anyone that's interested I ended up filling the lower lip off of an extra set of bridge posts I had. This allowed me to screw that rediculously high cheap $14 Badass clone down nearly flush to the body and brought the action down to where I wanted it. It also made a tighter mounting of the bridge and made it set flatter. Kind of like an expensive locking bridge. Also only had to do it on the low E side.
    Since you can't seem to edit a post after a day or so... I finally did this to dial this beast in with the cheap bridge. I filed the lower lip off of both posts and also filed a little length off of the bottom. I can fine adjust the height with the appropriate chrome plated washer if necessary. The bridge now lays perfectly flat and is tightly secured to the inserts. When I'm finally done with it I will cut short those ridiculous long flat head screws stiking out the back. An hour with a file really makes a difference. If anyone has a template for the pick guard available I would really appreciate it?Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #44
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Ready for disassembly paint and a pick guard. It turned out much better than I expected.

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  10. #45
    Senior Member Daver's Avatar
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    Cool! Thanks for sharing the process.

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  11. #46
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    It turns out this is very close to the original body shape.The BJA/USA Jr wasn’t even close. I’m deciding whether to trim the top off of the pickguard or trim the extra length of rosewood off of the end of the fret board that sticks into the body to be more historically accurate. (The modern retro’s stick into the body) This is the Gibson Vintage/Historic template that I trimmed a 1/4” off of. Btw.. I’ve gigged with it already... Worked great. Stayed in tune. Intonation was fine. Great sustain. A real grinder. It’s a tiny bit neck heavy with a thin strap. I’m going to make a 1/4” steel control cavity cover to balance it a bit better.

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    Last edited by olddawg; 04-22-2018 at 09:23 PM.

  12. #47
    Supporting Member Steve A.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
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    It turns out this is very close to the original body shape.The BJA/USA Jr wasnít even close. Iím deciding whether to trim the top off of the pickguard or trim the extra length of rosewood off of the end of the fret board that sticks into the body to be more historically accurate. (The modern retroís stick into the body) This is the Gibson Vintage/Historic template that I trimmed a 1/4Ē off of. Btw.. Iíve gigged with it already... Worked great. Stayed in tune. Intonation was fine. Great sustain. A real grinder. Itís a tiny bit neck heavy with a thin strap. Iím going to make a 1/4Ē steel control cavity cover to balance it a bit better.
    Here's an in-line image of your very nice looking guitar...



    Steve A.

    P.S. You probably already told us this but what P-90 did you use?


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  13. #48
    Supporting Member Steve A.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddawg View Post
    Something weird is going on with this thread. It wonít advance to the next page.
    When that happens check the address in the URL bar... if it refers to a specific post@ sometimes it will not advance past that post and/or page. If you edit the URL to read .../t46014-new/@@ it will always go to the last page of the thread.
    Code:
    @
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/t46014-2/#post493820
    
    @@
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/t46014-new/
    HTH

    Steve A.

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  14. #49
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve A. View Post
    Here's an in-line image of your very nice looking guitar...



    Steve A.

    P.S. You probably already told us this but what P-90 did you use?


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    The P90 pickup is a slightly overwound Stewmac "Antiquity". I used their dog ear cover and mounting plate too. Looks just like the original. I actually had the pickup in another guitar. It's quieter in this guitar. May be from that steel (and grounded) mounting plate since the other guitar I had it as a soap bar just screwed to the body. Might be because of the fresh bridge ground with oversized solid copper wire.

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  15. #50
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    And btw Steve... the way I mounted that bridge is exactly how Faber is building their "locking" wrap around bridge. Except it isn't $14 and free shipping

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  16. #51
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    I had to order my replica headstock water slide from Etsy in Argentina. I was going to paint the whole thing white like my original one. But the wood looks so good that I may just spray the face of the headstock black, apply the decal, and spray a lacquer clear coat on everything. I would recommend this Eden body and neck set. The quality is great. But you do need some skills to make it right.

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  17. #52
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Last parts on order...

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  18. #53
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    My 59 replica pickguard arrived. For any of you thinking of getting one of these Eden neck and body sets.... at least for the body shape and headstock, it's an exact copy of the original. This pickguard was templated from an original. So I'm going to take a little time and trim the rosewood at the end of the fret board back a bit so it will fit perfectly. Once my headstock decal arrives it should be a "fairly" accurate replica.

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  19. #54
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve A. View Post
    When that happens check the address in the URL bar... if it refers to a specific post@ sometimes it will not advance past that post and/or page. If you edit the URL to read .../t46014-new/@@ it will always go to the last page of the thread.
    Code:
    @
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/t46014-2/#post493820
    
    @@
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/t46014-new/
    HTH

    Steve A.
    I have no idea how to do this with my iPhone 5, lol!

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  20. #55
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    When you don't want to buy $60 fret saw to trim the end of a fretboard or trim your expensive replica nitrocellulose pickguard....

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  21. #56
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Finally.. the way it should be. And I didn't dick it up despite my rock and hammer methods. Amazing what you can do with a hacksaw blade, some blue tape, and a cut up cookie can.

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  22. #57
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Ready to paint the headstock black and apply the water slide when it comes. But Iím playing it at the club Saturday night.

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  23. #58
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Got my reproduction headstock waterslide decals today. I had to order them from E-Kraft in Argentina. They cost $18 including shipping. I used PayPal and it only took 6 days to get to me. It was kind of a pain to find though. You can get any reproduction Fender headstock decal on eBay, but they have gotten funny about Gibson.
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  24. #59
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    Here’s what this beast sounds like... still haven’t got around to putting the water slide on the headstock. At a walk on Tuesday night jam at the American Legion a block from the beach. It’s very Leslie Westish...
    https://www.facebook.com/87577292910...0816325937334/
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    Last edited by olddawg; 07-01-2018 at 04:15 AM.

  25. #60
    Supporting Member Steve A.'s Avatar
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    So how much was the kit again? If you build it yourself you can be sure it was built right!

    Sounds great!

    Steve A.

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  26. #61
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
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    It wasn't exactly a kit Steve. It was just a neck and a body. If I remember correctly it was $154 w/ free shipping. It was shipped from a USA address. But yeah I took a lot of care to get it right. It's a very close replica. I spent a third of what it cost on a replica/replacement pickguard for a real one. It mounted straight on with no modifications. Everyone thinks it's real and just refinished. I had a couple people say I was full of it when I said I built it. This clip has it plugged straight into a 20 watt 12AX7/El84 tube amp with no boost pedal or anything. I probably should have tried to clean it up a hair, but that's what a slightly overwound P90 is supposed to sound like. I retuned to "double dropped D" to play "Cinnamon Girl" with this guy and also played G tuned and standard slide on it. The neck set is very solid. It's set up a little low for slide though. I'm also using a 9 Ernie Ball set. As I said in the earlier posts. The wood came from Eden via Reverb.com. They may still have some if you want to make one. And thanks for you attention!

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    Last edited by olddawg; 07-01-2018 at 10:48 PM.

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