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  • Power cord tip

    I have had several frustrating moments in the past trying to fit a new 3-prong power cord into the "too small" hard plastic chassis gromet until I happened upon this solution (I'm sure many old timers know this already): Carefully heat the outer jacket with a heat gun to soften then press the gromet in place with plyers. Works really well.

  • #2
    Good one. Thanks.

    Here’s another, fairly obvious tip—some power cords are extra nice, like the vacuum cleaner style rubber ones with three conductors, but maybe the earth prong has been cut off. Instead of replacing the entire power cord, you can just put a new plug on the end.
    --
    I build and repair guitar amps
    http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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    • #3
      Another tip. Don't spend an hour trying to cram a new cord into an undersized strain relief. They come in sizes for a reason. Sometimes you need a larger strain relief and even maybe enlarge the chassis hole.
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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      • #4
        Heyco DD Hole type Cord Grips

        Heyco is the most common power cable strain relief you'll see on attached power cord amps. One of the tools I acquired along the way is their special Strain Relief tool, propserly shaped to fit any size strain relief, just by changing the jaw opening feature. I've attached a spec sheet to show the DD hole details and the Strain Relief detail.

        Heyco Strain Reliefs DD hole round cables.pdf

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        Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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        • #5
          A very nicely made tool - built to last. I wonder if the pressed Chinese copies hold up?

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          • #6
            I've never seen the Chinese-made tool. I suppose if they used decent steel, and did a decent job in forming the jaws, probably. Or, no doubt loads cheaper then the Heyco tool, and could be fine-tuned with a Dremel or Foredom grinder.
            Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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            • #7
              The cheap ones don't have the kind of leverage that the real ones have. Not sure if it is really necessary though.
              You can see in nevetslab's middle pic they have a rack & pinion system that give a mechanical advantage.
              Originally posted by Enzo
              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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              • #8
                I've been using the cheap tool for a year or more. Works fine, no signs the tool is weakening.
                --
                I build and repair guitar amps
                http://amps.monkeymatic.com

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                • #9
                  The heyco #29 (part 0022) is a must have for this job!! Save yourself the time and frustration destroying the strain relief trying to install it with slip joints. $28 on amazon
                  If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

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                  • #10
                    Looked them up on Amazon, i got googly eyes. Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      No idea what those round things are on that Amazon page, but the description sounds right Mine is a No. 29. R29 must be a later model of the same tool. Excellent buy!
                      Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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                      • #12
                        A quality plug is a lot more money than a new cord with a molded plug. New plug or new cord depends on how much extra labor cost is involved.

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                        • #13
                          Over the years, when I'm running low on Hubbell 5-15P type plugs, I find them after searching a while on ebay under Nema 5-51P ( the Nema type for 125V/15A straight-blad grounding plug. Doesn't matter if it's Woodhead, Arrow-Hart, Hubbell and others, or even the Asian look-alikes to the Hubbell. I"ve bought all of them over time, and usually pay around $3 each, seldom more than $4.50. Can't always find them, but I won't wasted my time with teh cheap stuff at a hardware store. At Home Depot, they'll charge you around $9 for a Hubbell plug.
                          Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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                          • #14
                            I always replace the entire power cord and not just the plug. I feel a molded plug is safer since you won't pull the cord out from the plug when you yank it from the wall outlet. Plus I have seen a few miswired plugs. Computer cords can be had at a thrift store for a buck. Just cut the IEC end off an strip the wire.

                            I have been using a cheap Chinese Heyco knock-off for years without any problems. Don't use regular pliers for strain reliefs.

                            Sometimes I have drilled or carved out a bit of the plastic inside the connector to make it fit. This especially works when you are replacing a two conductor "lamp" cord with a round three conductor cord.

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                            • #15
                              I actually have one of those strain relief tools.
                              Someone threw one away at a place I worked because the screw holding the sliding part was missing.
                              So I replaced it!
                              You can also file out strain relief grommets to fit thicker cords, I usually just melt them with a dedicated soldering tip.
                              But as mentioned it's best to enlarge the hole in the chassis.

                              Although vacuum cleaner cords and others can make great replacements on the fly, 8 or 12 ft cords are only $3 or $4 bucks when you order ten or more.
                              Why not, you're going to use them.
                              I probably do at least a couple a month.

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