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fender super twin newbie

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  • #16
    Originally posted by nosaj View Post
    i think I see where the red wire goes, but the White wire doesn't seem long enough to reach the 33k I do see.
    But I'd wait for a concurrance.

    nosaj
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]47958[/ATTACH]
    You're talking about the 33k next to the orange cap?

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by t81rd View Post
      You're talking about the 33k next to the orange cap?
      Yea just under that blue cap. But wire looks too short.
      i think we have the right schematic as there inductors listed in the eq section on the schematic.

      nosaj
      soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

      Comment


      • #18
        If that's where it goes couldn't I just tie it into the other end of the white wire that connects to that 33k on the 47k side. Sorry if that's a dumb question

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        • #19
          Originally posted by nosaj View Post
          Yea just under that blue cap. But wire looks too short.
          i think we have the right schematic as there inductors listed in the eq section on the schematic.

          nosaj
          Both versions had the active tone controls, but I believe it was the earlier version had an inductor in the distortion circuit. In the very first post, to the upper right of the three cement resistors, is an extra black cylinder. That part is not on the attached schematic, which is a later version. This one is probably "close enough," but these aren't really well-known Fenders, so there may well be other changes, and most folks aren't that familiar with them. (Bob P, are you seeing ?) I know that other schematic is "out there somewhere," though... I remember having to go through this trying to fix my own Super Twin... I may have used an STR for the distortion circuit, though. Of course, that one has an added 6C10, so, be happy this is NOT a reverb model!

          Justin

          Edit: here's a Super Twin Reverb with the inductor in the Distortion chit:
          http://www.thevintagesound.com/ffg/s...verb_schem.jpg
          Last edited by Justin Thomas; 04-02-2018, 03:58 AM.
          "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
          "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
          "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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          • #20
            Here is what I have for the Super Twin.

            Whoever is playing that thing better have high self esteem because those amps will take no prisoners. Just ask my father about the Summer of '79 ...
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Tone Meister View Post
              Here is what I have for the Super Twin.

              Whoever is playing that thing better have high self esteem because those amps will take no prisoners. Just ask my father about the Summer of '79 ...
              Six 6L6s and no reverb... if you get it fixed I would use it as a bass amp. Going to be one gawd awful loud, clean mf!

              Comment


              • #22
                Yea the biggest thing I hear about this amp is saying it is loud is an understatement. I think the origional plan for this was a bass amp but I plan on using it as a guitar amp lol. I just hope I get it running. So are we in agreement that those 2 wires go to the locations posted prior? Also is anyone else seeing anything out of the ordinary? I don't want to blow 6 tubes all at once they get pricy quick

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by t81rd View Post
                  Yea the biggest thing I hear about this amp is saying it is loud is an understatement. I think the origional plan for this was a bass amp but I plan on using it as a guitar amp lol. I just hope I get it running. So are we in agreement that those 2 wires go to the locations posted prior? Also is anyone else seeing anything out of the ordinary? I don't want to blow 6 tubes all at once they get pricy quick
                  Build a bulb limiter it'll save your a$$..

                  nosaj
                  soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by nosaj View Post
                    Build a bulb limiter it'll save your a$$..

                    nosaj
                    what is a bulb limiter and how does it help me?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by t81rd View Post
                      what is a bulb limiter and how does it help me?
                      Read this and then see if you have any questions. Basically if you miswire something your not blowing fuses or burning up components.
                      Tools of the Trade: Light Bulb Limiter ? Doktor Ross Sewage

                      nosaj
                      soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        gotcha thanks, I never knew these things existed. Makes sense, I don't know why I didn't think of it lol. Basically, this will confirm that my bulbs won't blow when turning it on to test operations? or is that still a possibility? Also, did we confirm the placement of those 2 wires or was that still up in the air

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by t81rd View Post
                          gotcha thanks, I never knew these things existed. Makes sense, I don't know why I didn't think of it lol. Basically, this will confirm that my bulbs won't blow when turning it on to test operations? or is that still a possibility? Also, did we confirm the placement of those 2 wires or was that still up in the air
                          What is the value of the orange cap and what is the value of the blue cap by the 33k. Does the 33k connect to either of those and does the orange cap go to pin6 of V3 (the socket with the loose wires. Pin1 is the the one with the red wire ( I'm pretty sure where that goes.) Pin2 should connect at a junction of the 33k and a.047 cap.
                          Once wires are hooded up typically all tubes pulled and turn it on with the bulb limiter if bulb is dim good to go. If bulb is bright you may have a bad cap on the other side of the amp is a metal box ( the dog house have you looked at the caps in there?)
                          nosaj
                          soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            orange cap: 6ps2-s22 +-10% .022 600 DC the orange cap goes to the output knob which has a cap going to the distortion knob. The 33k goes to a .1 +- 10% @200 cap (the one over the 33k in the picture) on one side then goes to an eyelet with a 47k resistor via a white wire

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                            • #29

                              looks like all of the caps in the doghouse were replaced

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by nosaj View Post
                                What is the value of the orange cap and what is the value of the blue cap by the 33k. Does the 33k connect to either of those and does the orange cap go to pin6 of V3 (the socket with the loose wires. Pin1 is the the one with the red wire ( I'm pretty sure where that goes.) Pin2 should connect at a junction of the 33k and a.047 cap.
                                Once wires are hooded up typically all tubes pulled and turn it on with the bulb limiter if bulb is dim good to go. If bulb is bright you may have a bad cap on the other side of the amp is a metal box ( the dog house have you looked at the caps in there?)
                                nosaj
                                so youre saying when I get these layed in to the correct positions i need to disconnect all tubes and apply power with the limiter to test, then if it is correct I reconnect the tubes?

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