Hello all.
New poster, long time lurker.
Sorry if this is a bit long...
I'm working on a 1970 YGM-3 that seems to have an O/T problem.
When I got this amp it had been extensively modified with triode/pentode switch,
hole drilled in the back for a master volume, Fenderish TMB tone stack with the mid control in the 3rd input jack hole.
Oh, and a hole punched in the chassis for an extra 12AX7 preamp tube.
It also showed evidence of a fire at one time with a big burn/scorch mark above one of the EL-84 sockets. V3
Must have been bad cuz the socket had been replaced and some wiring, and the other wires nearby look a bit toasty too.
I replaced the cheap fiber socket with a good phenolic type.
The other socket looks fine.
So I rewired it as much back to original as I could, with stock parts values, pots etc, from the schematic.
Removed the extra 12AX7.
Added adjustable bias and 1ohm cathode resistors.
Added 2.2K screen resistors.
Replaced all electros with new, including the cans.
B+ ~ 435V
Got it up and running but with the bias set to -15.5V per the schem and measured ~50ma at the 1ohm cathode resistors,
it red plates the output tubes, but sounds awesome.
Adjust bias closer to -20V which gives ~30ma at the 1ohm cathode resistors.
Sounds like crap with crossover distortion. No more red plate tho.
It does have a tiny hum, never notice it when playing.
Tinkered with it for some time and went to take a voltage reading at the plate of V3
and as soon as I touched the Fluke 110 voltmeter + lead clip to pin 7
There was a tiny spark and the hum went away and there was noticeable background hiss.
It does not do this if I hook up to V4 pin 7.
V3 plate 395V
V4 plate 405V
Disconnected the O/T primary leads and took R readings.
V3 side to C/T 119.3 ohm
V4 side to C/T 163.6 ohm
Is my O/T done?
TIA
New poster, long time lurker.
Sorry if this is a bit long...
I'm working on a 1970 YGM-3 that seems to have an O/T problem.
When I got this amp it had been extensively modified with triode/pentode switch,
hole drilled in the back for a master volume, Fenderish TMB tone stack with the mid control in the 3rd input jack hole.
Oh, and a hole punched in the chassis for an extra 12AX7 preamp tube.
It also showed evidence of a fire at one time with a big burn/scorch mark above one of the EL-84 sockets. V3
Must have been bad cuz the socket had been replaced and some wiring, and the other wires nearby look a bit toasty too.
I replaced the cheap fiber socket with a good phenolic type.
The other socket looks fine.
So I rewired it as much back to original as I could, with stock parts values, pots etc, from the schematic.
Removed the extra 12AX7.
Added adjustable bias and 1ohm cathode resistors.
Added 2.2K screen resistors.
Replaced all electros with new, including the cans.
B+ ~ 435V
Got it up and running but with the bias set to -15.5V per the schem and measured ~50ma at the 1ohm cathode resistors,
it red plates the output tubes, but sounds awesome.
Adjust bias closer to -20V which gives ~30ma at the 1ohm cathode resistors.
Sounds like crap with crossover distortion. No more red plate tho.
It does have a tiny hum, never notice it when playing.
Tinkered with it for some time and went to take a voltage reading at the plate of V3
and as soon as I touched the Fluke 110 voltmeter + lead clip to pin 7
There was a tiny spark and the hum went away and there was noticeable background hiss.
It does not do this if I hook up to V4 pin 7.
V3 plate 395V
V4 plate 405V
Disconnected the O/T primary leads and took R readings.
V3 side to C/T 119.3 ohm
V4 side to C/T 163.6 ohm
Is my O/T done?
TIA
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