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where to buy thin cardboard with aluminum backing to shield open side of chassis.

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  • #16
    I dug around and found the partial roll of aluminum heat/ac tape. Put the probes on it (lightly!!!) and it is nicely conductive. 0.2 ohms. I thought maybe it was a scuff or scratch, tried a bunch of other places, and it seems to be consistently conductive. I remember way back when, when I did heat/ac in the summers during college, and thought there was a fine thin stretchy plastic over the top of it. Many years passed, and I might be mistaken. Anyway this is conductive.

    But I could shoot another 15 bucks for a roll of copper tape (thanks for the link!). Ya can't take it with ya!!!

    And looks like enough left over for my guitar cavity plus a nice copper foil hat as well. (worried about the Z rays from the Andromeda galaxy. I saw that movie, scary stuff).

    This, eventually, will be the quietest amp this side of my house!!!
    The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
      What Bill said ^^^ and >>>you may find you don't need to cover the entire panel, just the part that covers input & preamp circuitry.<<<
      Thanks Leo.
      The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
        But is the aluminum tape coated? I thought it was. Any coating would be an insulator against contact.

        I use HD aluminum foil and contact cement. I do have a roll of aluminum flashing that is thin enough. I've tried stapling that in place like other amp makers. I didn't like it. After repeated chassis insert/removal operations there's always some snagging and bending. Just like other amp makers.
        Thanks for the tips. I do have a roll of thin flashing, but I don't have a brake to bend it, only a small hand brake. Ive tried bending it before and it gets all wavy. (My brother has his own company does some metal work, I know they have a brake but its like 8 hours one way, so ... )
        The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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        • #19
          I think we used to just burn the plastic layer off with a lighter. Probably would be frowned upon this century though.
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #20
            If you score the flashing material with a blade and a straight edge before bending it will behave a lot better. I've made quite a few things from aluminum flashing material without the benefit of any sort of professional break. This roll I have now is probably my third. Once you score it can almost be bent by hand and then corrected for angle. IIRC I use to have a break I made from boards and hardware store hinges. Worth a try.
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
              If you score the flashing material with a blade and a straight edge before bending it will behave a lot better. I've made quite a few things from aluminum flashing material without the benefit of any sort of professional break. This roll I have now is probably my third. Once you score it can almost be bent by hand and then corrected for angle. IIRC I use to have a break I made from boards and hardware store hinges. Worth a try.
              Thanks for the tips Chuck, I'll try that tonight, never thought I could cut it with a blade, cool idea.
              The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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              • #22
                Not cutting, scoring to provide a break point and make the bend line more accurate and acute. IIRC I've made longer cuts that way too, but it tends to leave a fatigued curl at the cut line.
                "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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                • #23
                  To add to what Chuck said, sometimes I find that using the back of the knife point makes a cleaner score, as it scrapes the material out instead of pushing it to the sides where it leaves a raised burr. Depends on the material of course but I've had good luck with this method on aluminum and polystyrene sheet for example.

                  Andy

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Bloomfield View Post
                    To add to what Chuck said, sometimes I find that using the back of the knife point makes a cleaner score, as it scrapes the material out instead of pushing it to the sides where it leaves a raised burr. Depends on the material of course but I've had good luck with this method on aluminum and polystyrene sheet for example.

                    Andy
                    Shooting for a thumbs up, Andy, not sure what it did.

                    The siders cut their coil stock by scoring it with a utility knife and flexing it a couple times. Just did it myself cutting flashing for our porch that needed rebuilding. Bent it by hand along a two by four.

                    So your method seems like a good way to keep a bend from becoming two pieces.

                    If someone were to score the piece rather than bend it in a brake, they might want to secure it as though it's two pieces because with time and metal fatigue it may end up that way. Just to cover all the bases.
                    Last edited by ric; 08-07-2018, 05:53 PM. Reason: change break to brake

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                    • #25
                      I have a piece of flashing (really thin cheap stuff from Home Depot). not wide enough to go front to back of the amp. Remembered my brother (does roofing) has a sheer and brake big enough to fold up a nice little pan. Thinking to get a steel pan made that fits over the chassis like a cover. I had the flashing sort a kinda patched in, it wasn't sitting flat and kept catching the edge of the chassis when I put tried to put it back in. Really worried that it or a staple would fall into the amp and cause the bad smoke to leave some of the expensive parts.

                      Anyone do anything like that?
                      The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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                      • #26
                        I use HD aluminum foil and rubber cement. Yes, some day it will fail. But it'll be twenty+ years from now. Anything thicker will catch on the chassis. I have amps I've made with stapled flashing and I was careful to leave some room to negotiate the thicker material. They catch. Then I need to fuss with the curled edge of the aluminum FOREVER!!! You can't even tap it down flush ever again. Stay thin my friend.
                        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                        Comment

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