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    Spin Doctor type gauss meters?

    I am looking for a good used working condition Spin Doctor gauss meter if anyone has one that they are willing to sell. Just message me a price you want for it with shipping in the U.S.

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    Last edited by big_teee; 05-09-2019 at 08:22 PM.

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    If you cant find one heres what we've been using for the last 25 years https://www.alphalabinc.com/product/gm1-st/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lollar Jason View Post
    If you cant find one heres what we've been using for the last 25 years https://www.alphalabinc.com/product/gm1-st/
    and I've got one of these for sale........

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    I work on a similar project. Should be ready soon (at the moment the OLED display is missing). The software is already written (but not tested). But sending it from Europe to the US may be quite expensive.

    Mark

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    Initial test of the meter (Musicman bass):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Test with neodymium magnet:
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    It looks like milling the enclosure (in low quantities) is very difficult - no one wants to do it . I still need to design the front sticker for the meter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Initial test of the meter (Musicman bass):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Test with neodymium magnet:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks like milling the enclosure (in low quantities) is very difficult - no one wants to do it . I still need to design the front sticker for the meter.
    Please note that the readings of the flux density at the poles are changed (increased) by the presence of the strings.

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    Yes, it was just a test whether it works . And it works.

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    Supporting Member John_H's Avatar
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    It looks like milling the enclosure (in low quantities) is very difficult - no one wants to do it
    Have you considered 3D printing, or vacuum forming? Either of these you could do yourself.

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    No, but I'm considering buying a mini CNC machine. I may use it in other projects.

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    Old Timer J M Fahey's Avatar
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    Just curious:

    What´s wrong with the beige plastic case you are already using?

    Is Eagle Audio your own brand or that of a commercial field sensor head?

    Thanks.

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    Juan Manuel Fahey

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    Quote Originally Posted by J M Fahey View Post
    Just curious:
    What´s wrong with the beige plastic case you are already using?
    Is Eagle Audio your own brand or that of a commercial field sensor head?
    Originally there are no holes in the enclosure. The most difficult to make is the hole for the OLED display. I marked it with a sharp knife and filed it. Should be done with a CNC machine.
    EA it's my own brand.
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    Depending on what your production quantities are, you could make a template that attaches to the screw holes in the case and use a router with a guide bushing to make the cutout. A 3mm or so bit would give a nice small radius in the corners.

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    The owner's Manual for the gaussmeter at the link listed in posts #2 and #3 includes some very interesting information about magnets and the earth's magnetic field.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloomfield View Post
    Depending on what your production quantities are, you could make a template that attaches to the screw holes in the case and use a router with a guide bushing to make the cutout. A 3mm or so bit would give a nice small radius in the corners.
    I was also thinking about such a template but to make it I need a CNC machine too. Or I have to pay someone to do it. I would use 2 mm bit to get 1 mm radius in the corners. I don't expect high production quantities. Just few friends asked me to manufacture something like this .

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    A nice thing about router bushings (especially if they are large) is that they will tend to even out small flaws in the template. If you filed out the template as well as you filed out the prototype, I think you could get a very nice end result. Some of my homemade pickup cutout templates look fairly crude, but do a good job in the end.

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    Old Timer J M Fahey's Avatar
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    Agree, I have done the same many times.
    Spending 1 hour rough cutting, filing and, worst of all, not getting a perfect result is a downer if it has to be made for each and every case, but spending, say, 2 hours for a perfect template is worth it, since afterwards each case will take minutes and be well finished.

    The router flute cuts along the edge, and any small error or roughness is way more tolerable than the "across the grain" irregular hand sanding, so that alone makes it worth routing.

    And you don´t *really* need a template to cut a rectangular window with sides parallel to case faces!!!!

    Mount the router under a table where only bit is visible, say 10mm above the surface, then do a little measuring and Math and bolt/nail/clamp 4 straight pieces of wood to serve as a "fence" around the case, so it can only move along those edges in a straight line, and so a rectangular window is the only geometrical shape which can be cut.

    Hope this is clear enough, if *neccesary* I can draw it but hope we can avoid it

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    Juan Manuel Fahey

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    I'd think a small laser would do a fine job of the holes and display cutout. The problem with milling these is that the odd shape needs to be fixtured to the milling table and that's going to be a challenge. A laser doesn't push your part around, you just need to place it accurately so very minimal fixturing is needed. I'd call around to laser places locally and see what they'd charge you, I doubt it would be more than a euro or two per shell if you did them in batches.

    Routing might work but most plastics melt at such low temperatures you could easily end up with just a big ugly blob of molten plastic stuck to the bit and a deformed mess of your enclosure. If you try this get a single flute bit designed for plastic and attach a strong vacuum cleaner under the table to pull the chips away and cool the part as quickly as possible. Spraying the part with isopropyl alcohol can also lubricate the cut and help keep things cooler via evaporation. Exhaust the vacuum outdoors so you don't inadvertently create a flame thrower in your shop. Be sure to run the router at the slowest speed until you know what will happen. Move the part as quickly as possible past the cutter to minimize heat build up. As soon as the plastic melts and sticks to the cutter things will go downhill very rapidly.

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    Last edited by David King; 12-03-2018 at 07:51 PM.

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    Yesterday I visited friends in Milan (IT) who make their own pickups and guitars and I tested my meter with one of their pickups (with alnico magnets). I was a little afraid that the magnets are to strong for my meter. The maximum value that can be measured is 1640 Gs and their magnets are 1129 Gs. It was close but there is still some headroom . Are there pickups with even stronger magnets?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Yesterday I visited friends in Milan (IT) who make their own pickups and guitars and I tested my meter with one of their pickups (with alnico magnets). I was a little afraid that the magnets are to strong for my meter. The maximum value that can be measured is 1640 Gs and their magnets are 1129 Gs. It was close but there is still some headroom . Are there pickups with even stronger magnets?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi Mark

    If the sensors only go to 1640 g maybe you can use the same ones that elepro used
    https://music-electronics-forum.com/...ro+gauss+meter

    Features:
    Range +/- 5375 gauss (with AD22151 sensor) or +/- 1650 Gauss (with A1302 sensor)
    Normal, peak-hold and average mode
    1024 sample per reading in normal mode, 64 in hold peak and 131k in average mode
    On board tactile push buttons to reduce cost and wiring
    Two sensor (double face) probe with storable calibration (sensivity value from 0.250 to 6.000 mV/gauss) and polarity for each one
    Auto zero set at start-up and at sensor change... + zero set button
    Lcd backlight button


    Check the link above. I hope it helps
    Cheers
    Andrew

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Yesterday I visited friends in Milan (IT) who make their own pickups and guitars and I tested my meter with one of their pickups (with alnico magnets). I was a little afraid that the magnets are to strong for my meter. The maximum value that can be measured is 1640 Gs and their magnets are 1129 Gs. It was close but there is still some headroom . Are there pickups with even stronger magnets?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    To me the range up to 1640G would be fine. My spin doctor has a range of 1700G and it works with all PU measurements. I chose the lower range version, as it provides better resolution at lower fields.
    The range would be to low for direct measurements at stronger ceramic and neo magnet pole faces. But what matters to the strings is the field strength at the top of the PU poles.

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    Yes, I'll be selling them. But at the moment I have just 1 prototype that I can sell (the other one will be used for tests) and I ordered several PC boards yesterday. I think I'll get them in a week. So in let's say 2 weeks I'll have some more meters.

    Mark

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    Hi Mark

    Thanks, there`s no rush.

    Andrew

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    I was also thinking about such a template but to make it I need a CNC machine too. Or I have to pay someone to do it. I would use 2 mm bit to get 1 mm radius in the corners. I don't expect high production quantities. Just few friends asked me to manufacture something like this .
    Hi Mark
    You could try selling them as a kit. My elepro meter was delivered as parts. I'd probably have one of yours as a spare is always useful and i'm in Europe as well.
    Cheers

    Andrew

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    ToneOholic! big_teee's Avatar
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    Here's the link to the elepro attachment that lists the various sensors.
    https://music-electronics-forum.com/...4&d=1513847570
    T

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    Good idea with laser. Let me check it. Thanks.

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Good idea with laser. Let me check it. Thanks.

    Mark
    Markus,

    Can I contact you in some way to order such a meter? Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagemgear View Post
    Can I contact you in some way to order such a meter? Thanks!
    Yes, you can always send me a private message. But I don't know your location and the meter is not yet completed.
    The cutout for the OLED display is done with a laser (thanks David). It's not bad but I think that milling would be more accurate. Now I'm working on the sticker for the meter.

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Yes, you can always send me a private message. But I don't know your location and the meter is not yet completed.
    The cutout for the OLED display is done with a laser (thanks David). It's not bad but I think that milling would be more accurate. Now I'm working on the sticker for the meter.

    Mark

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    It seems I'm not allowed to view your profile in order to send you a DM? I registered yesterday, not sure why I can't do that.
    Can you write me one?

    Thanks

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    ToneOholic! big_teee's Avatar
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    Here's some readings of bar magnets.
    https://music-electronics-forum.com/...gauss+readings
    Your limits should be fine, unless you get into measuring some NEOs.
    Some A5 rod magnets will measure way over 1000, at full charge.
    If you do a search on gauss readings, there are lots of other threads out there on the subject.
    GL,
    T

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    It's only Rock and Roll, but I like it!

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    Thanks,

    It looks like there may be problems with A9 magnet. But in this case I may change the Hall sensor and get the range up to 3280 (with slightly lower precision).
    The pickups that I tested until now were in a range of 500-700 Gs.

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBass View Post
    Yes, you can always send me a private message. But I don't know your location and the meter is not yet completed.
    The cutout for the OLED display is done with a laser (thanks David). It's not bad but I think that milling would be more accurate. Now I'm working on the sticker for the meter.

    Mark

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    Ahh, this is exactly what I need. Is there a waiting list I can sign up to for when it is completed? Hopefully by then I'll have the option of sending you a PM...

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    I agree with Helmholtz that there is no need to change the sensor. It would mean loosing precision of the measurements. However, if there is a demand to do it, I can easily change the range of the meter either to 3280, or 6560, or even to 13120 simply by changing the Hall sensor (to a different type than AD22151) and changing one constant in the program. But changing the sensor to AD22151 would require a redesign of the PC board and most probably big changes in the program (which I want to avoid).

    Mark

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    If I click on user name left to the post, there is a popup menu with "Private Message" option. But not in your case. It looks like starting members cannot send/receive private messages. At least you can update your location in your profile .

    Mark

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    Mark,

    Please send me an email to *************, thank you!

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    Last edited by vintagemgear; 12-19-2018 at 03:11 PM.

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    This is the latest version of the meter (next to the prototype). I still have to buy the OLED display and program the meter (with the latest version of the software). It will take about two weeks to do.

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