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1978 Fender Super Reverb UL -- WEAK REVERB HELP!

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  • #16
    It depends on how jiggy you want to get with it. I've fixed such things when there was a layer wrap between the winding connection for the lead wire and I was able to actually find it. The only motivation is that NEW TANKS SUCK! Not even trying to be subtle here.
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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    • #17
      Looks like you can still see a bit of the green wire at the coil? If so it's worth a try. You can carefully undo that tape around the coil and see if you can get on the wire stub.
      Like Chuck said, if this is an original tank, it's worth fixing. The new ones are not the same.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        Originally posted by cluster View Post
        Just checked again. With transformer in place I got:

        blue/red = 1.917 KOhm

        black/green = 1 Ohm

        So, does this look like the tranny is ok?
        Yes.
        - Own Opinions Only -

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        • #19
          I’ll give it a shot. Thanks. I was going to write it off.

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          • #20
            So here are a couple of photos of the transducer. Do u feel it possible to splice these two green wires together?? How, without harming the components? thanks
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              That's the nub g1 was talking about. I don't know the mechanical reason why, but there always seems to be a nub. Keep unwrapping. There's more in there. If you can expose enough to lift the lead from the bobbin try to strip and expose a millimeter or so (I've used a razor knife because you can't get a pair of strippers in there). Slip some doubled over aluminum foil under the wire to protect the bobbin and coil so you can solder another lead wire to the nub.

              And FWIW I've only attempted this twice and it only worked once. The second time there was too much oxide on the wire strands in the nub and they just wouldn't take solder well enough. Trying to take the repair further destroyed the coil.
              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

              "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
              You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

              Comment


              • #22
                As said replace all those electrolytic caps. Not just the one under the doghouse, but all the 25/25V's on the board. The only one I'd consider leaving is the 5/50V off V5B as I've never managed to find a close enough match and it has quite an effect on the trem.

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                • #23
                  And DON'T FORGET THE BIAS SUPPLY CAPS!

                  Yes, I'm shouting.

                  Justin
                  "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
                  "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
                  "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
                    And DON'T FORGET THE BIAS SUPPLY CAPS!

                    Yes, I'm shouting.

                    Justin
                    For sure. Those will be replaced as well. Thx.

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