how to do 2 stroke mods? a)footswitch b)LED's

[aaron]

B/C OF MY LACK OF CLARITY IN MY FIRST POST, I HAVE EDITED IT. ALL EDITS TO THE 1ST POST APPEAR IN BOLD. I HOPE THIS IS CLEARER. THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE! THNX

Hi guys!

I want to build Hunter Two Stroke amp from scratch.

I would like to do two mods:

A) install a jack within the amp to accept a cable from a footswitch to change between the boost modes (switch 2 on the schematic). I want to keep the faceplate switch, just add a footswitch option. I would like to have an LED(s) on the faceplate of the amp that will indicate when the boost is on

B) Instead of using an old fashioned 6V lamp, substitute a LED.....My guess is that the tone won't suffer too much, amirite? If I didn't want to use the 6.3A old lamp path at all, how and where would I break into the circuit (connect to the 220V on/off switch?) with an LED that would indicate the amp is on?

So how would I do that????

Thanks!

BTW, the schematic is from this site....



I tried uploading image from my computer, didn't work. Tried image link, might not have worked....if you don't see an image, here's the thread url where I found the schmatic. http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...ghlight=stroke

[nickb]

Got a postage stamp sized image. Try these.


Put a SPST foot switch in a metal box and use a screened lead to a mono jack. Metal box to the screen and one side of switch. Other side of the switch to the inner wire that goes to the tip of the jack at the other end. In the amp connect the sleeve to the ground near the 1.5K cathode resistor. Wire the 0.47uF so it's in circuit always ( it will be swamped by the 25uf) and wire the tip of the jack socket to the -ve end of the 25uF.

You can buy white LEDs on the bay that are are drop-in for the incandescent type. Look for something like "#47 bulb led 6.3v"

[Helmholtz]

Got a postage stamp sized image. Try these.


Put a SPST foot switch in a metal box and use a screened lead to a mono jack. Metal box to the screen and one side of switch. Other side of the switch to the inner wire that goes to the tip of the jack at the other end. In the amp connect the sleeve to the ground near the 1.5K cathode resistor. Wire the 0.47uF so it's in circuit always ( it will be swamped by the 25uf) and wire the tip of the jack socket to the -ve end of the 25uF.

You can buy white LEDs on the bay that are are drop-in for the incandescent type. Look for something like "#47 bulb led 6.3v"

...and don't forget the 1M charging resistor(s) missing in the schem on the right.

[aaron]

Got a postage stamp sized image. Try these.


Put a SPST foot switch in a metal box and use a screened lead to a mono jack. Metal box to the screen and one side of switch. Other side of the switch to the inner wire that goes to the tip of the jack at the other end. In the amp connect the sleeve to the ground near the 1.5K cathode resistor. Wire the 0.47uF so it's in circuit always ( it will be swamped by the 25uf) and wire the tip of the jack socket to the -ve end of the 25uF.

You can buy white LEDs on the bay that are are drop-in for the incandescent type. Look for something like "#47 bulb led 6.3v"

Hi Nick!

thanks for the reply!

I tried to link to the schematic that you provided in the other thread, sorry if not successful!

Since I'm an american, does "screened lead" mean "shielded cable"?

What does "-ve end" mean?

Re: the LED for power on/off, I want to get away from the whole jewel light thing, just want a plain LED.....

[aaron]

...and don't forget the 1M charging resistor(s) missing in the schem on the right.

WHAT!?

Something's missing from the schematic?
where does it go?

[nickb]

-ve == negative
screened==shielded

There was a thread about running LEDs off the heater supply a while back. Try this.

The 1M resistor(s) are shown in the version with the 12AX7 (which is why I didn't mention them) i.e from cap -ve end to 0V

[aaron]

re: the power on/;off LED indicator light, wouldn't this work? Isn't it less complicated?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/220V-10mm-L...5Q1vW6w0bDje0A

[cerrem]

You could use a simple SPST switch to just parallel in the 25uF without switching out the .47uF .... ???

[nickb]

You could use a simple SPST switch to just parallel in the 25uF without switching out the .47uF .... ???

Already said see post #2

[nickb]

re: the power on/;off LED indicator light, wouldn't this work? Isn't it less complicated?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/220V-10mm-L...5Q1vW6w0bDje0A

If you have a 220v supply, then yes. Update your profile with your location. Didn't go that route as you said you just wanted a LED and not the jewel type thing.

[Jazz P Bass]

And at 110V it will be half as bright.

[aaron]

Is this what I need for the jack?

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/produ...hunt-type-l12a

I already have a two button footswitch. Would this be appropriate to choose one boost stage vs. the other?

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/produ...e-open-circuit

thanks!

[nickb]

Better to go for insulated as it's easier to manage the grounds https://www.amplifiedparts.com/produ...c-nut-marshall

[aaron]

Better to go for insulated as it's easier to manage the grounds https://www.amplifiedparts.com/produ...c-nut-marshall

But don't I need the tip shunt to keep the jack quiet when not in use?

[nickb]

But don't I need the tip shunt to keep the jack quiet when not in use?

If you want it it is there. See there are four terminals? There is switching contact on both sleeve and tip.

Now since it's for the foot switch the signal shunt doesn't apply. It just depends on what you want to happen without the foot switch plugged i.e. boost or no boost? Also. if you use the sleeve switching contact in series with a local boost switch you can disable the local switch when you plug in the foot switch.