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Fender Twin Reverb, Deluxe Reverb input jack issues

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  • Fender Twin Reverb, Deluxe Reverb input jack issues

    An on-going headache I keep coming up against is the explosive-pops and scary noises that occur from your guitar chord plug inserted into the '65 Reissue Twin Reverb or Deluxe Reverb PCB input jacks. My normal solution has been to remove the problematic jacks and wire in Switchcraft 12A or L12A open-frame phone jacks with normals, using short insulated wires. Today I found myself out of them, and, once again, tried to find a solution using the stock jacks:

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    Three of the four jacks on this Fender Twin I had on in the service cradle were working ok, but Normal Ch Jack #1 just would not cooperate. Removed from the PCB, as well as others that have been removed, or brand new un-used jacks, installed predominately in the Normal Ch positions just seem to have a sloppy plug fit (using Switchcraft 280 plugs), and the slightest movement of the plug/chord inserted in that jack would result in explosive scary noises.

    One of my gripes on this part is the wrap-around wire 'hoop' that is pressed into the slotted grove of the mounting ground sleeve pressed into the plastic mold. I've gone to the extent of pulling on the solder terminals and folding them over a bit before soldering on the front, and making sure the rear terminals seat fully.

    Playing with the Switchcraft 12A open frame jacks and comparing the force applied to the plug inserted vs that of the Fender jacks (I forget who the mfgr of these jacks is), the Fender jacks is way lower in applied force. The ID of the machined sleeve of them vs that of the Switchcraft 12A is within 0.002"....being more than tight enough, as long as there is adequate contact force exerted by the Tip Spring.

    I tried cutting away enough space on the top of the jack, so I could seep in a little flux and then heat up the machined ground sleeve/hoop ground and solder those two parts together, just to see if that helped. I was still getting the same explosive sounds when the plug moved, or tapped on the plug.

    I found then using a small KANT TWIST clamp to hold the back end of the molded plastic body firmly against the PCB while soldering the Tip/Normal terminals into the PCB, plus increasing the tension of the jack's Tip Spring seemed to minimize or eliminate the sloppiness, and was no longer getting chord-induced movement of the plug inserted in the jack to cause those scary noises.

    Having already de-soldered, re-soldered a number of jacks into Normal Ch Jack #1, I was at the threshold of having the solder pad adhesive fail if I pursued swapping out any more jacks. But it did seem to be the clamping of the back end of the jack, and increasing the tension that solved that noise problem.
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

  • #2
    Originally posted by nevetslab View Post
    An on-going headache I keep coming up against is the explosive-pops and scary noises that occur from your guitar chord plug inserted into the '65 Reissue Twin Reverb or Deluxe Reverb PCB input jacks. My normal solution has been to remove the problematic jacks and wire in Switchcraft 12A or L12A open-frame phone jacks with normals, using short insulated wires.
    First, note to self: never run out of Swcr 12A and L12A jacks. I run into the same s@#+ and have a similar solution. But I don't trust those crapola multipin connectors jumpering board to board. And they get worse anytime you have to pull the control board for anything. Also those cheezy fly leads from the main board to tube sockets Instead I wire a "home run" straight to the grid pins of the pre tube sockets. And jumper grounding wires to any floating lands left over. Successful so far.

    Shopping list: quart of olive oil, avocados, garlic, tomatoes, cheese, bread, 50 L12A's. Done.
    This isn't the future I signed up for.

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    • #3
      I've always thought that the real issue with those - as well as "good jacks", is corrosion of the jack's sleeve. It's not a proper wiping contact or a pressure contact, it's a "hope it touches enough to get the job done". Hell, you can touch two shiny clean DVM tips together and not get continuity. It's amazing that the sleeve connection of a 1/4" works at all.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TimmyP1955 View Post
        I've always thought that the real issue with those - as well as "good jacks", is corrosion of the jack's sleeve. It's not a proper wiping contact or a pressure contact, it's a "hope it touches enough to get the job done". Hell, you can touch two shiny clean DVM tips together and not get continuity. It's amazing that the sleeve connection of a 1/4" works at all.
        Yes especially in amps where you can SEE brownish blackish corrosion lining the sleeve. I roll up a small square (1.5 inch or 4 cm) of 600 grit paper into a cylinder, grit side out, and scrub the inside of those jacks that need a cleanup. "OH THE PLATING!!!" I hear the chorus shout - well it works for me, that's my story & I'm stickin' to it. Follow up by swabbing out the crud with a cotton but / Qtip that's had a dab of Caig DeOxit soaked in, then a final cleanup with dry cotton swab. If that don't do it, replace the jack. Or follow our old buddy Stan's advice, skip the cleanup routine and just replace the jack.

        If you're in a jam and need a field fix because the band's on stage in 10 minutes, try my way first. When there's time, swap in a new jack.
        This isn't the future I signed up for.

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        • #5
          I have a brass bristle end brush for my Dremel. I quick spin through the jack to polish off any crud. The plating? If that flakes off it was already loose. I have never had a polished out jack come back at me.

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          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Enzo View Post
            I have a brass bristle end brush for my Dremel. I quick spin through the jack to polish off any crud. The plating? If that flakes off it was already loose. I have never had a polished out jack come back at me.

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]52997[/ATTACH]
            On the three different stock Fender input jacks I messed with on this amp, I had cleaned their throats, though not with the brass bristle brush chucked into my Foredom. What WAS different was the amount of sloppy fit in the jack with different phone plugs. After clamping the rear end down & re-soldering it again on the last fitted jack, and re-tensioning the tip contact, it wasn't a sloppy fit anymore and no longer had the problem. May not have anything to do with the clamping operation....at that point, I was grasping at straws seeking a solution with what I had on hand.
            Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
              "OH THE PLATING!!!" I hear the chorus shout - well it works for me, that's my story & I'm stickin' to it.
              If the plating was any good, you would not have to be messing with the thing. I've seen gold jacks corrode too.

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              • #8
                In an earlier thread,you mentioned using an ITL washer with the new Switchcraft jacks. Is that another term for Isolation washer?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lo-watt View Post
                  In an earlier thread,you mentioned using an ITL washer with the new Switchcraft jacks. Is that another term for Isolation washer?
                  No...Internal Lock Washer
                  Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nevetslab View Post
                    No...Internal Lock Washer
                    Ok Thanks for the clarification!

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