Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Tolex instructions

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Randall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    2,558
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 605/0
    Given: 108/0
    Rep Power
    10

    Tolex instructions

    Is there a youtube or other showing how to tolex a fender blackface style amp? I do find an Uncle Doug tutorial, and I did learn a good bit there, but it is for a custom build so it only helps so much. I'm wondering how to deal with the front slant angles, and whether or not to bring the tolex just up to the baffle support edge, or wrap it over like on the rear panel supports.

    I did the two rear panels first. One I did following Uncle doug, by making the miter corner cuts after it was already glued, but I found it way too hard to pull the bottom flap up to remove the cut out piece once it was put in place. The second one I cut the tolex while dry, making sure everything fit nicely, but that has it's drawbacks as well. You have to place the wood once it is glued exactly where it was when dry, or you end up with some errors.

    A lot of effort has gone into this cab so far and I really dont want to mess up my first tolex job.

    1 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  2. #2
    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Dogpatch-on-Hudson
    Posts
    6,666
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 1,639/21
    Given: 1,358/0
    Rep Power
    14
    Not Fender BF specifically, but there should be some good ideas here:

    https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=17822

    1 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Enjoy. Every. Sandwich.

  3. #3
    Old Timer J M Fahey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Posts
    11,753
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 1,885/23
    Given: 1,463/35
    Rep Power
    27
    Small World
    I was up to 3 AM tolexing 2 heads and a 60W 1x 12" combo.
    Still pulling dried up contact cement from my fingers while I write this.

    Timing is critical, so if you
    found it way too hard to pull the bottom flap up to remove the cut out piece once it was put in place.
    then it was already too late, and now, presumably some hours later, even worse.

    I :

    * contact cement (using the solvent based one) both wood and tolex using a fine toothed notched trowel


    which is both fast and uniform.

    I use a short hard bristle painterīs brush only on edges and corners, not over large flat surfaces.

    Repeat with me: "contact cement is NOT paint!!!"

    * wait 15 minutes , actually until surface is not shiny any more and becomes very tacky.

    * wrap tolex around cabinet smoothing and pressing it as you go, first by hand, then with a small (2.5" wide) smooth edge trowel.

    Pull tolex sideways as needed so as to avoid pockets, bubbles and wrinkles.

    Bend it around edges with firm thumb pressure, bend it inwards and push inside angles with the small smooth trowel.

    * apply first tolex "layer" to corner, then the second one over it, remember itīs tacky so it will hold somewhat, but at the same time not fully dried, so you can still remove it, and cut through both down to the wood with a sharp knife.
    That guarantees both cuts perfectly match.

    Then remove "trapped" bottom one with the knife tip and push the top one in its place.
    Cut will be perfect, edges will match without either superimposing or leaving gaps.

    Thatīs why I said timing is critical: too fresh and it wonīt hold; too dry and it lost tackiness so you remove cut off bits but then second layer does not hold properly.

    If you already preglued wood and tolex many hours ago (more than 2 or 3), IF you have contact cement solvent available (you should) you may lightly brush some on surfaces and "revive" tackiness for, say, 1/2 hour.

    IF you are using or have available the spray can type, slightly mist surfaces to revive it, donīt use too much.

    It takes practice, and then itīs a natural, so you should have made a few fake corners out of scrap wood and practiced first before doing the real one.

    I fear your cement is way too dry now, try to apply a little extra on the corner , which is critical, with a small brush or a toothpick .

    Good luck and show results.

    Almost forgot: you can fill small nicks, voids, exposde wood, etc. with a little "black vinyl adhesive", bought at office or art stores, kids used coloured vinyl glue to "paint".


    Or you may Improvise it with a little regular white carpenterīs glue and a few drops of **water based** black paint.

    Mix is greyish but dries jet black and *looks* like tolex.
    Saved my bacon many times.

    5 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Last edited by J M Fahey; 05-02-2019 at 10:45 AM.
    Juan Manuel Fahey

  4. #4
    Supporting Member nevetslab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    Posts
    1,991
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 732/1
    Given: 1,728/1
    Rep Power
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by J M Fahey View Post
    Small World
    I was up to 3 AM tolexing 2 heads and a 60W 1x 12" combo.
    Still pulling dried up contact cement from my fingers while I write this.

    Timing is critical, so if you then it was already too late, and now, presumably some hours later, even worse.

    I :

    * contact cement (using the solvent based one) both wood and tolex using a fine toothed notched trowel


    which is both fast and uniform.

    I use a short hard bristle painterīs brush only on edges and corners, not over large flat surfaces.

    Repeat with me: "contact cement is NOT paint!!!"

    * wait 15 minutes , actually until surface is not shiny any more and becomes very tacky.

    * wrap tolex around cabinet smoothing and pressing it as you go, first by hand, then with a small (2.5" wide) smooth edge trowel.

    Pull tolex sideways as needed so as to avoid pockets, bubbles and wrinkles.

    Bend it around edges with firm thumb pressure, bend it inwards and push inside angles with the small smooth trowel.

    * apply first tolex "layer" to corner, then the second one over it, remember itīs tacky so it will hold somewhat, but at the same time not fully dried, so you can still remove it, and cut through both down to the wood with a sharp knife.
    That guarantees both cuts perfectly match.

    Then remove "trapped" bottom one with the knife tip and push the top one in its place.
    Cut will be perfect, edges will match without either superimposing or leaving gaps.

    Thatīs why I said timing is critical: too fresh and it wonīt hold; too dry and it lost tackiness so you remove cut off bits but then second layer does not hold properly.

    If you already preglued wood and tolex many hours ago (more than 2 or 3), IF you have contact cement solvent available (you should) you may lightly brush some on surfaces and "revive" tackiness for, say, 1/2 hour.

    IF you are using or have available the spray can type, slightly mist surfaces to revive it, donīt use too much.

    It takes practice, and then itīs a natural, so you should have made a few fake corners out of scrap wood and practiced first before doing the real one.

    I fear your cement is way too dry now, try to apply a little extra on the corner , which is critical, with a small brush or a toothpick .

    Good luck and show results.

    Almost forgot: you can fill small nicks, voids, exposde wood, etc. with a little "black vinyl adhesive", bought at office or art stores, kids used coloured vinyl glue to "paint".


    Or you may Improvise it with a little regular white carpenterīs glue and a few drops of **water based** black paint.

    Mix is greyish but dries jet black and *looks* like tolex.
    Saved my bacon many times.
    Great tips from a seasoned pro!! I hadn't thought to go looking for a product like these Plasticola colored vinyl adhesive products. I'm forever dealing with road rash on all of our rental gear, and a black 'sharpie' just isn't a suitable solution!

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Randall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    2,558
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 605/0
    Given: 108/0
    Rep Power
    10
    I stalked this cab for a week trying to come up with a game plan, and today I launched. The Uncle Doug videos are great, but they don't (and nowhere that I could find) explain how to deal with the Fender front panel angle. I used masking tape like Doug shows to map out the size of tolex I needed. I placed the cab on the back side of the tolex and measured, then outlined with a silver Sharpie. I only pre-glued the side of the cab and matching part of the tolex, but not the edges or flaps. I left the corners purposely unglued, so I could use one as a setting point, and be able to remove it and adjust until I was comfortable pressing down into the glued fabric. Turned it over and rollered it, and then went about following doug's lead. This meant only pre-gluing the section I was working on. This meant I could cut first and glue later. It took much longer, but it gave me confidence in my work.

    My first corner at the back bottom came out really good. I worked my way around at a snail's pace until what was left was the unglued front panel angle. I admit I wasn't sure what to do, and the tolex did bunch up, and I did not execute this perfectly. But once I realized that fixing tolex is a lot like fixing drywall, I made a few repairs by gluing in small fragments and rolling over them with the round part of a screwdriver shaft, and voila! You wouldn't ever see them unless you were looking for it. Anyway, I'm happy, and the other side should go a lot faster. This amp will come together fast after that. All the hardware is sitting in wait.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	001.JPG 
Views:	42 
Size:	474.2 KB 
ID:	53563
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	002.JPG 
Views:	40 
Size:	488.9 KB 
ID:	53564

    3 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  6. #6
    Supporting Member Randall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    2,558
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 605/0
    Given: 108/0
    Rep Power
    10
    Finished it today. It looks pretty good. Not perfect, but I give myself and A-. Tolex turns out is pretty forgiving, and the few patches and mistakes I made are barely visible. Here is the outcome.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	001.JPG 
Views:	43 
Size:	459.3 KB 
ID:	53571Click image for larger version. 

Name:	002.JPG 
Views:	49 
Size:	472.7 KB 
ID:	53572

    6 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Unsafe Wiring Instructions
    By Reader in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 12-27-2018, 01:00 AM
  2. B52 212 - Are Bias Instructions the same as B52 100?
    By Jecarroll7 in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-18-2014, 12:48 AM
  3. Newbie question: Can I cover original tolex with new tolex?
    By gogitchershinebox in forum Cabinetry
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-03-2011, 03:42 PM
  4. Mission Amp Instructions
    By Gerard in forum Kit Amps
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-06-2008, 10:56 PM
  5. Instructions for 5e3 Build
    By Ronin in forum 5 E 3
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-18-2007, 10:10 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •