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Warwick bc150, parallel caps

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  • Warwick bc150, parallel caps

    I have a Warwick BC150. I have a little problem with it: Since the switch is located on the back lower corner, it is not very confortable to turn it on and turn in off, 'cause a I have back problems.

    So I decided to install a switch in series with the main one and put it in the front panel.

    The thing is when I turn the amp off there's a strong sound. This sound didn't appear before the swith installation.

    Taking a look under the thermofit that covers original switch contacts I found there are two capacitors, and the conector to the cord line has one too.

    The question is how do I calculate the capacitors for the new switch I have installed?

  • #2
    No clue what exactly you're hoping for in an answer here. The capacitors are there in the amp. You've already located them. Measure them. Otherwise you must try to get a schematic and locate the circuit therein. Any answer to the post as you've written it would require someone that is already intimately familiar with this amp model. I just don't see that happening.
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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    • #3
      If you are just going to leave that old switch set to 'on', it doesn't need those caps anymore. You can move them to your new switch.
      Or move the whole old switch & caps together to the new location. Not sure why you would even want to leave the old switch there, there is no need for it. The less AC wires running around in there, the less potential for added noise/hum.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #4
        In a nutshell: just copy (or reinstall) what is already there.
        No need to "recalculate" anything

        Just do it properly/safelly/carefully ; you are dealing with Mains there.

        Plan B: turn off POP is annoying but damages nothing, that POP through your speaker doles not hurt them more than a loud "slap" , so absolute worst case you ignore it.
        Juan Manuel Fahey

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        • #5
          Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post
          turn off POP is annoying but damages nothing, that POP through your speaker doles not hurt them more than a loud "slap" , so absolute worst case you ignore it.
          Unfortunately we don't know what is happening. Only that it's a "strong sound" My first thought was some kind of squeak or squeal due to a temporary oscillation caused by the new signal leads location and a phase error as the amp powers down. Also not a problem as long as there's no problem when the amp is in use.
          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

          "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
          You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by g1 View Post
            If you are just going to leave that old switch set to 'on', it doesn't need those caps anymore. You can move them to your new switch.
            Or move the whole old switch & caps together to the new location. Not sure why you would even want to leave the old switch there, there is no need for it. The less AC wires running around in there, the less potential for added noise/hum.
            You're right!!!!!. The simplest way to solve it.

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            • #7
              The amp works fine, It's just when you turn it off with the new swtich there's a big "Pop, Click", that sounds very loud and the compresor light turns on. An the cone moves up for a moment.
              Thanks for your ideas.

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