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Thread: Behringer EuroLive B212D

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Behringer EuroLive B212D

    Good morning to all.......I was sent three of these units with the same problem....will not turn on....from the same person....anyway, I took one apart and saw swollen electrolytics..I did replace them but the same problem remains.....my question is...how do some of you people here troubleshoot something like this with the boards pulled from the chassis..you can't test anything with it installed as there are lots of circuitry on both sides of the board...and then you have the issue of somehow trying to heat sink the power transistors, Fets, etc., in order to power the board up.....not to mention that they retail for $350 Canadian up here....are they really worth the trouble??? Any ideas or suggestions kindly welcome......let's see if I can get the schematic posted here for you.....The only schematic I could find was for a B215D
    Cheers
    Behringer B215D Schematic.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    Good morning to all.......I was sent three of these units with the same problem....will not turn on....from the same person....anyway, I took one apart and saw swollen electrolytics..I did replace them but the same problem remains.....my question is...how do some of you people here troubleshoot something like this with the boards pulled from the chassis..you can't test anything with it installed as there are lots of circuitry on both sides of the board...and then you have the issue of somehow trying to heat sink the power transistors, Fets, etc., in order to power the board up.....not to mention that they retail for $350 Canadian up here....are they really worth the trouble??? Any ideas or suggestions kindly welcome......let's see if I can get the schematic posted here for you.....The only schematic I could find was for a B215D
    Cheers
    Behringer B215D Schematic.pdf

    Can you not remove that cage thing that contains everything in a way that power transistors/ICs stay on a heatsink?

    Test the speakers first and foremost, there's a possibility that circuit protection is tripping because of a faulty load.

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1989jmp View Post
    Can you not remove that cage thing that contains everything in a way that power transistors/ICs stay on a heatsink?

    Test the speakers first and foremost, there's a possibility that circuit protection is tripping because of a faulty load.
    Thanks for the reply.....you have to remove the board inside the cage and in order to do that the heat sink assy has to be dismantled....there are clips that when screwed down to the side of the cage, they will hold the necessary components tight against the heat sink....in order to get the board out as there is circuitry on both sides, the heat sink assy has to be dismantled.....The speakers test ok......I had some parts come in yesterday so I will get back to this in the next day or so...I'll take another look at the cage and how everything goes together to see if there is a way to actually do that....
    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    Thanks for the reply.....you have to remove the board inside the cage and in order to do that the heat sink assy has to be dismantled....there are clips that when screwed down to the side of the cage, they will hold the necessary components tight against the heat sink....in order to get the board out as there is circuitry on both sides, the heat sink assy has to be dismantled.....The speakers test ok......I had some parts come in yesterday so I will get back to this in the next day or so...I'll take another look at the cage and how everything goes together to see if there is a way to actually do that....
    Cheers
    In that case, maybe you can remove clips entirely and just screw the components directly to the sink...

    There are replacement power amp modules available for around 120USD, assuming preamp works fine.

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1989jmp View Post
    In that case, maybe you can remove clips entirely and just screw the components directly to the sink...

    There are replacement power amp modules available for around 120USD, assuming preamp works fine.
    I don't think that will work.....the thermal pads don't have screw holes in them for that....It is an idea which I will check out over the next day or so....maybe I can rig up some sort of external heat sink.....will have to ground the boards together as well.....I think the main board is grounded to the cage in two locations.....I'll check it out and let you know.....the owner was expecting to have these in two days...and of course doesn't want to spend much money to have them fixed....by the time I get a module in Canadian funds, and have it shipped in would probably approach the retail cost of these new at the local music store...they sell for $358.00 CAD....

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Here is the B212A schematic: behringer_b212a.zip

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
    Here is the B212A schematic: behringer_b212a.zip
    Thanks Jazz P.....however, the file won't work.....and what is the difference between a 212A and a 212D.........

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    Supporting Member The Dude's Avatar
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    My best advice is to get a set of probe extensions so that you can test with minimal disassembly. I have a set and they are invaluable.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    “Yeah, well, you know, that’s just, like, your opinion, man.”

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    Don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    Thanks Jazz P.....however, the file won't work.....and what is the difference between a 212A and a 212D.........
    File just worked for me.

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    I believe the 215D is closer to what you have.

    https://imagescdn.juno.co.uk/manual/493464-01U.pdf

    The D series is Class D output while the A series is discrete component Class AB.

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
    I believe the 215D is closer to what you have.

    https://imagescdn.juno.co.uk/manual/493464-01U.pdf

    The D series is Class D output while the A series is discrete component Class AB.
    I will try the file again..G1 said it worked for him......I have the 215D schematic here.......Thank you for the help...I will see what I can come up with.....
    Cheers

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    Back at this one...I replaced some bad caps...buldging.....Unit will not power up...did a quick check for some signs of voltage and did notice that there is voltage there but it is cycling.....so the power supply is trying to start but keeps shutting down......looking at the schematic, there are jumpers in the main B+ lines of both the 40V rails and 80V rails....I was thinking of opening those up to isolate the power supply from the rest of the circuitry......but the 12V line is derived from the -80V rail..... this is a double sided board which has to be removed to be worked on....maybe I should remove all the output devices so I wouldn't have to worry about heat......any thoughts, suggestion, comments, etc kindly accepted...
    Cheers

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    Master Destroyer nosaj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    Back at this one...I replaced some bad caps...buldging.....Unit will not power up...did a quick check for some signs of voltage and did notice that there is voltage there but it is cycling.....so the power supply is trying to start but keeps shutting down......looking at the schematic, there are jumpers in the main B+ lines of both the 40V rails and 80V rails....I was thinking of opening those up to isolate the power supply from the rest of the circuitry......but the 12V line is derived from the -80V rail..... this is a double sided board which has to be removed to be worked on....maybe I should remove all the output devices so I wouldn't have to worry about heat......any thoughts, suggestion, comments, etc kindly accepted...
    Cheers
    You want the exact SM? go to this link have model and serial number. I;m going to make a sticky link at top of forum.
    nosaj
    https://music.secure.force.com/Suppo...hringer&rt=gnt

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nosaj View Post
    You want the exact SM? go to this link have model and serial number. I;m going to make a sticky link at top of forum.
    nosaj
    https://music.secure.force.com/Suppo...hringer&rt=gnt
    Thanks for the reply..Just went to the site and filled out the necessary info......let's see if they will send me the schematics.......
    Cheers

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    Master Destroyer nosaj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    Thanks for the reply..Just went to the site and filled out the necessary info......let's see if they will send me the schematics.......
    Cheers
    Ususally takes a day or so buit no fails yet.
    nosaj

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    Binkie McFartnuggets‏:If we really wanted to know the meaning of life we would have fed Stephen Hawking shrooms a long time ago.

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    Supporting Member bsco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nosaj View Post
    Ususally takes a day or so buit no fails yet.
    nosaj
    Ok. Thanks.....I'll let you know when I get it.........
    Cheers......

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    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    File just worked for me.
    I just checked it now...I was able to get the file to open up....that is an owner's manual.......nice to have anyway, so I have saved it to the computer.......
    Cheers

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  18. #18
    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    The 215D & the 212D should be the same schematic.

    In Post #10 I posted the "Specification Sheet" in the hopes that it would be seen that the 215 & the 212 are the same amplifier with a different speaker.
    See page 5 for the output power specs.

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  19. #19
    Don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsco View Post
    I just checked it now...I was able to get the file to open up....that is an owner's manual.......nice to have anyway, so I have saved it to the computer.......
    Cheers
    The schematic is in post #6, not post #10

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  20. #20
    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Post #6 is the 212A.
    Not the same.
    I believe the OP posted the correct schematic in the first post.
    https://music-electronics-forum.com/...5&d=1565774517

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  21. #21
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    The owner has decided to not proceed with repairs as they are so cheap to buy new.....and I was kind of expecting that anyway.....thanks to everybody who did reply to my post.....
    Cheers

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