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Thread: Carvin Nomad 112 Crackling and Hissing

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    Carvin Nomad 112 Crackling and Hissing

    The noise goes up and down with volume and is in both the clean & soak channel. The tubes are new and tested good. Would the problem be a resistor at the preamp or the power amp stage? Would it most likely be a bad cathode or plate resistor?

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    Is the earthing from the wall to the mains cable correct
    Does exist noise when the guitar is plugged into the amplifier:
    - when the volume on the guitar is at max (10)
    - when the volume on the guitar is at min (0)

    Check for cold solder joints on G1 (ferrite bead), R1, J1 (input jack) 1)

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    Last edited by vintagekiki; 10-20-2019 at 12:45 PM. Reason: 1)
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagekiki View Post
    Is the earthing from the wall to the mains cable correct ......
    Does exist noise when the guitar is plugged into the amplifier:........................................
    - when the volume on the guitar is at max (10) ........................................................ ......
    - when the volume on the guitar is at min (0)..................................................... .............

    Check for cold solder joints on G1 (ferrite bead), R1, J1 (input jack) 1)
    .....
    Mains ground is fine. Noise is ONLY present when jack is plugged in. Noise increases and decreases with either guitar or amp volume. When I pull the jack out, it's dead quiet. I resoldered J1, G1 and R1. Noise still present.

    5 minutes later I turned it back on and no noise. I'm baffled, help!

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    A fault like that would not turn up on a tester, and is not unheard of for new tubes. Was the problem already there before you put the new tubes in?

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    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    A fault like that would not turn up on a tester, and is not unheard of for new tubes. Was the problem already there before you put the new tubes in?
    This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    I've had several new tubes right out of the box that caused problems. Including problems like your having. Another thing might be dirty contacts. Tube pin socket holes, jack contacts and any non solder connection. That amp isn't a spring chicken It might be time for some Cramolin.

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    Last edited by Chuck H; 10-21-2019 at 05:53 AM.
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    New is not the same thing as good. Quite a while ago I bought a box of 100 new 12AT7 GE tubes. EVERY SINGLE ONE of them, for the first minute or so of power up would crackle and make noise, and then they were quiet and fine, never to bother us again. I used them until they were gone, never had any issues other than their first moment of life. So tubes with problems can wind up good. Point being, never take tubes for granted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    ... for the first minute or so of power up would crackle and make noise, and then they were quiet and fine, never to bother us again...
    A long time ago the tubes warm (6.3 VAC without +HV) for 10 days for reheat and getter activated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    New is not the same thing as good. Quite a while ago I bought a box of 100 new 12AT7 GE tubes. EVERY SINGLE ONE of them, for the first minute or so of power up would crackle and make noise, and then they were quiet and fine, never to bother us again. I used them until they were gone, never had any issues other than their first moment of life. So tubes with problems can wind up good. Point being, never take tubes for granted.
    This problem is a little different in that it’s intermittent. Yesterday I started it & it hissed, today it’s not. Is there a way to test the “barrel” type jack or the ferrite bead?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck H View Post
    Another thing might be dirty contacts. Tube pin socket holes, jack contacts and any non solder connection. That amp isn't a spring chicken It might be time for some Cramolin.

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    I’ll clean the contacts today. Is there a way to test the “barrel” type jack or the ferrite bead?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    I’ll clean the contacts today. Is there a way to test the “barrel” type jack or the ferrite bead?
    Can you post the schematic? You said the noise goes up and down with volume? Does that mean you can make it go away by turning down the volume control?
    Ideally you would test the jack & bead by grounding the signal right after it. You may need to ground with a cap if there is DC present at the point you are grounding. If it makes the noise disappear, then you have isolated the problem to the jack, bead, or their connections.

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    Last edited by vintagekiki; 10-22-2019 at 09:44 PM. Reason: 1)
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    Great. You can directly ground the tube side of the ferrite bead. Does the problem remain or disappear?

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    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    Great. You can directly ground the tube side of the ferrite bead. Does the problem remain or disappear?
    Are u saying that I can attach one end of a wire from the tube side of the bead direct to chassis with power on? Do I need to pull V1 or leave it in?

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    The "barrel type jack" (Cliff jack) is as easy to test as it is to see what it's doing with it's contacts. Just look at it to determine when as where it should contact with and without a jack plugged in and use your meter to check continuity.

    I'm not experienced with this, but what could go wrong with a ferrite bead? It's ferrite and it doesn't connect directly/conductively to anything. The way I figure it, it's either there or it's not. If it's there then it's doing what a ferrite bead does. Unless they can become somehow polarized or otherwise incorrectly "charged" or something.?.

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    Not a problem with ferrite bead, but whether the wire passing through the ferrite maybe have a cold solder on the PCB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    Are u saying that I can attach one end of a wire from the tube side of the bead direct to chassis with power on? Do I need to pull V1 or leave it in?
    Yes you can do it here because there is no DC to worry about. Leave V1 in circuit. Try with various volume control settings and see if the problem remains or disappears.

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    Ok, I still have hissing (similar to rf white noise) when I grounded a lead from the tube side of the bead to chassis ground. The hissing increases/decreases with amp volume. Noise present whether guitar jack in or out. Btw, I've resoldered the bead, the cliff jack and R1 & cleaned both preamp & power tube sockets with deox.

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    Pull V1, is the noise still there?

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    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Randall View Post
    Pull V1, is the noise still there?
    Pulled V1, noise still present. Noise is with jack in or out and goes up/down with amp volume. (Earlier statement I made said that noise was only when the jack was in, but that has changed)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    Pulled V1, noise still present. Noise is with jack in or out and goes up/down with amp volume. (Earlier statement I made said that noise was only when the jack was in, but that has changed)
    Noise in BOTH channels with V1 pulled?

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    With V1 pulled, there's hissing noise only on the clean channel which increases/decreases with amp volume, the soak channel is quiet.

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    Last edited by Perkinsman; 10-24-2019 at 08:00 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagekiki View Post
    Not a problem with ferrite bead, but whether the wire passing through the ferrite maybe have a cold solder on the PCB.
    I had already resoldered G1, R1 & J1

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    New is not the same thing as good. Quite a while ago I bought a box of 100 new 12AT7 GE tubes. EVERY SINGLE ONE of them, for the first minute or so of power up would crackle and make noise, and then they were quiet and fine, never to bother us again. I used them until they were gone, never had any issues other than their first moment of life. So tubes with problems can wind up good. Point being, never take tubes for granted.
    Is it very common for a new tube to be intermittently noisy, and if so, it more likely to be a power or preamp tube?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    Is it very common for a new tube to be intermittently noisy
    If you don't have noise if remove from socket V1, or if the drive and volume 1 potentiometers (P1, P5) at min (0), then probably the new tube V1 is noisy.
    Try replace with some other tube from the amplifier, Carvin has a few.
    Are the voltages at V1 (pin1 and pin6) as written by schematics (190 VDC)

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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagekiki View Post
    If you don't have noise if remove from socket V1, or if the drive and volume 1 potentiometers (P1, P5) at min (0), then probably the new tube V1 is noisy.
    Try replace with some other tube from the amplifier, Carvin has a few.
    Are the voltages at V1 (pin1 and pin6) as written by schematics (190 VDC)
    As I said above, after removing V1, noise was still present so it's not V1. I haven't checked voltages yet.

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    OK, so the noise comes from after V1 and before the volume control.

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    As stated:

    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    With V1 pulled, there's hissing noise only on the clean channel which increases/decreases with amp volume, the soak channel is quiet.
    As correctly assesed:

    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    OK, so the noise comes from after V1 and before the volume control.
    And the circuit:



    Shown with V1 removed. There's no amplifier prior to the volume control in this scenario so I expect there must be an error in the testing and/or reporting. Unless the hiss is entering through the power supply or 0V. Which seems unlikely unless either is compromised such that the amp should be exhibiting other symptoms.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck H View Post
    Unless the hiss is entering through the power supply 1) or 0V.
    1) This is easily checked by removing R3 (220k) or C2 (.01)
    If hiss disappears when the treble (P4) on min (cut), the duty culprit could be C6 ceramics (120 pF)

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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagekiki View Post
    1) This is easily checked by removing R3 (220k) or C2 (.01)
    If hiss disappears when the treble (P4) on min (cut), the duty culprit could be C6 ceramics (120 pF)
    Are you saying that I can lift a leg of R3 and C2 to check for hiss? Is that with V1 in or out? Btw, with V1 in, I had 175 at pin 1, 189 at pin 6 & 191vdc at R3. I also resoldered pin 6 because it looked like a possible cold solder and the noise has diminished quite a bit but I'm going to let it warm up awhile to see whether that may have been the problem. Would a cold solder at pin 6 make the hissing sound?

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    Last edited by Perkinsman; 10-24-2019 at 11:01 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Perkinsman View Post
    Are you saying that I can lift a leg of R3 and C2 to check for hiss? Is that with V1 in or out?
    Btw, with V1 in, I had 175 at pin 1, 189 at pin 6 & 191vdc at R3.

    Free lift a leg of R3 and C2 to identify the source of hiss
    For this check status V1 does not matter

    1)
    Any cold solder or semi-corrected component (due to aging) can produce audible sensations (hiss, crackling ...)
    What is the result when you lift a leg of R3 or C2 to check for hiss?

    Voltages 189 VDC at pin 6 is incorrect.
    Check (replace) R3 (220k) most likely changed the value more

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    Last edited by vintagekiki; 10-24-2019 at 11:27 PM. Reason: 1)
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagekiki View Post
    Free lift a leg of R3 and C2 to identify the source of hiss
    For this check status V1 does not matter

    1)
    Any cold solder or semi-corrected component (due to aging) can produce audible sensations (hiss, crackling ...)
    What is the result when you lift a leg of R3 or C2 to check for hiss?
    ..
    Voltages 189 VDC at pin 6 is incorrect.
    Check (replace) R3 (220k) most likely changed the value more
    Ok, I lifted both R3 & C2, hiss noise still present. Changed V1 tube, noise still present, replaced R3, noise still present. Per schematic, pin 6 is 190vdc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    A fault like that would not turn up on a tester, and is not unheard of for new tubes. Was the problem already there before you put the new tubes in?
    No, problem was not present before i put in new tubes.

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    Then I would suspect them above all. Or possibly a socket solder connection due to the pressure and wiggling of replacing tubes.
    I've had plenty of noise issues from brand new tubes, constant and intermittent noises/hiss etc.

    If the amp was working with the old tubes and you still have them, I would just put them back in and test.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    OK, so the noise comes from after V1 and before the volume control.
    I thought we narrowed it down to Enzo's theory. I've tried multiple tubes in V1 with the same hiss so I'm very confident that the tubes fine...but I'm leaning toward a bad solder joint. I've reflowed each of the 9 pins on V1. Is there any reason to suck up the old solder and use new solder? I'm open to any suggestions or solutions!

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    Last edited by Perkinsman; 10-25-2019 at 05:55 AM.

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