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TC Electronic RS410 Bass Cabinet fractured wood joints

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  • TC Electronic RS410 Bass Cabinet fractured wood joints

    After tracking down an affordable black plastic spacer for the M6 x 50mm Socket Cap Screws used behind the metal grille of the TC Electronic RS series bass cabinets (22.3mm with 6mm ID, and found 7/8" long 0.260" ID x 0.500" OD, very close fit), I went thru two of the cabinets I had just checked out and given a pass, apart from needing the grille mounting hardware. A third cabinet I found up on the second shelf with the rest of the cabinets hadn't yet been serviced, and I was able to coax it down, landing on a large road case just below the shelf.

    During sweeping the cabinet, first with 1/3 Oct Pink Noise, I found some severe cabinet resonances in the 40Hz-63Hz range, then changed to Sine Wave to get a closer look. Their cabinet, as seen in the front view of the full cabinet, is rather unique in their large 1" ID radius on the four corners. The Tuned Slot Port appears at the top and bottom of the cabinet, with just two cleats tying the port shelf that goes back some 7" from the front cabinet edge, and the baffle starts 1-5/16" from the front. So, the top and bottom panels are only supported by the two vertical ribs between the port shelf and the cabinet top.

    Having found definitive cracks on both sides of the top panel, tuning the oscillator to around 45Hz, that panel rattles severely. The cracks start near the bottom of the right radius, and near the top of the left radius. With conventional wood joints, I'd be inclined to spread the crack open to seep wood glue into it, then drive dry-wall screws in from the appropriate side to pull the joints together. But, here, we're dealing with a radial wood joint having an ID of 1", with the wood being 11/16". Not sure if its' Baltic Birch or equivalent. It doesn't look like particle board. I'm also somewhat puzzled on how these wood joint corners were formed.

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    I can reduce the loud resonance by pulling down on the front of the top panel, but, there's just the two support cleats that run from front to back between the port shelf and the top panel to anchor to.

    Fortunately, playing bass thru it, I'm not hearing the effect of the cabinet's mechanical damage. I'm assuming it got dropped somewhere along the way, but am seeking a decent solution to repairing this. Any thoughts?
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

  • #2
    Does the repair have to be fairly invisible? If so I would lean towards applying something like Loctite PL from the inside, maybe spreading the panels a bit to get some seepage into the joint, and making some cleats that have a rounded corner that would match the radius of the cabinet corner and give you something to drive some screws into.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by glebert View Post
      Does the repair have to be fairly invisible? If so I would lean towards applying something like Loctite PL from the inside, maybe spreading the panels a bit to get some seepage into the joint, and making some cleats that have a rounded corner that would match the radius of the cabinet corner and give you something to drive some screws into.
      I wouldn't object to seeing screw heads on the outside surface of the cabinet in the repairs. Touch it up with black paint. Making mating cleats to be fitted into the inside front-to-back radial joints seems like a good solution. I haven't yet searched what's available in large diameter dowels. No doubt this will end up being a custom made cleat with the mating radius to fit. I can pry the panel up from the front to open the crack, though that only works for the first few inches. I'll look up the Loctite PL adhesive....thanks.
      Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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      • #4
        Originally posted by nevetslab View Post
        I'll look up the Loctite PL adhesive....thanks.
        I used it when I built a plywood piroque (flat bottom canoe) and that stuff it tough, with a bit of flexibility, and good water resistance.

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        • #5
          I second the PL, it is great stuff, very tough and shock-resistant.

          I had to look it up as the packaging is different in the US, but go for the regular 'premium', not the 'premium fast-grab.' The regular is very greasy and easy to work into gaps, whereas the fast-grab is very thick and pasty.

          Be sure to wear gloves as it smears all over and nothing that I've ever tried will clean it off. It's best to leave the squeeze-out alone for an hour or two and then it will trim off cleanly with a chisel or knife. Trying to clean it up while wet usually makes a mess.
          Last edited by Bloomfield; 02-25-2020, 03:00 PM. Reason: typo

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