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Extending primary leads on OT?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by glebert View Post
    This is all really helpful to me. My splice game has always been weak because I would do it so infrequently and was never shown different ways to splice. I definitely used the term pigtail improperly above because to me the pigtail was the section of wire that was added, not the wire joint itself.
    I would think, semantically, that if the added wire is the 'pigtail', then the splice used to join the pigtail to the rest of the wire would be the 'pigtail splice'.
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
    If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
    We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
    MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey

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    • #17
      Well I learned something too.
      Pig-tail splice is also known as rat-tail splice, like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rat-tail_splice
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        Trying to "describe" a splice in my post above seemed clumsy. I found a couple of examples on line and grabbed the photo's from one. Can't seem to find a name for this splice but I think the term "inline splice" was used a couple of times.

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        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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        • #19
          An inline splice just means it is more or less just an extension of the wire in linear shape. Which your is. I would call a Western Union splice inline as well. As opposed to a pigtail where two wires are placed parallel and twisted together.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #20
            Update on this and two more silly questions. Extended the wire, cased it in heat shrink, and did a test with only two power tubes and a 16 ohm speaker and it worked good. Did have to reverse the speaker leads to prevent feedback oscillation.

            Question 1: Is this transformer supposed to bolt down flush to the chassis, ie remove the nuts that are shown in the above photo and use those to secure it, or should those nuts sit on top of the chassis. Note: turns out the transformer is not really from a SVT CL, which stood up vertical on brackets, but for an SVT VR or maybe SVT II non-Pro, where they go down into the chassis (this actually is better for me btw). I would think sitting down flush would be better for strength and thermal, I just always feel weird unscrewing nuts covered in varnish.

            Question 2: This transformer is a bit bigger than the previous one, so sits a little closer to the 6550 power tubes, with maybe 3/4" clearance to the closest tube. Should I put a heat shield in that gap, or is it OK? I'm planning on increasing the size of the fan.

            TIA,
            Greg

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            • #21
              Question 2: This transformer is a bit bigger than the previous one, so sits a little closer to the 6550 power tubes, with maybe 3/4" clearance to the closest tube. Should I put a heat shield in that gap, or is it OK? I'm planning on increasing the size of the fan.
              It's an OT which doesn't get very hot by itself. And because of its mass, the tube's heat radiation won't heat it up significantly. So no need for a heat shield.
              - Own Opinions Only -

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              • #22
                No, do not remove the existing nuts that hold it together.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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