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Hi, this is my first post. I looked for a bit through the forums, and didn't quite see a thread with the same information as this, so I thought I'd post it. If I'm wrong and all this is some sort of common knowledge, I apologize. I hope anybody with input on these methods could chime in.
My goal was to make a durable, inexpensive, faceplate (see attachment below) with the print quality of a fine mesh screen print without necessarily using an ink as a direct marking material, ideally being able to use some sort of print off from a laser or inkjet printer. I'd also like to know if there is a place that will do inexpensive laser engraving on an arbitrary piece of metal. Most places quoted me at least $25 for a ~2x24" faceplate.
These are the 2 (well, 3, sort of) different methods I'm most confident in, but haven't thoroughly tested.
Method 1:
Probably the cheapest and easiest: Lexan/plexi faceplate.
I have seen some designs with paper behind plexiglass, but I of the opinion that paper isn't quite durable enough, especially if/when exposed to heat and time. I found a material called dura-lar, basically fairly thick polyester/mylar film, which is both laser and ink jet printable, and fairly inexpensive. I got a 25" x 40" sheet for $3 at a local arts and crafts store. I printed that faceplate design and it looks good, although it's sort of hard to find many printers that print arbitrary sizes of paper (like a 2x24" piece), so I had to print it in two pieces. A way around this is to try Kinko's or somewhere that prints in a wide format that will do that for you. Personally, I'm going to try to run in through my HP laserjet 1100 in two legal-sized paper jobs, which should be fine.
The paper I have is double matte, and the front looks kind of flat, but good. My next step is to try both gluing it to lexan with something like IPS weld-on plastic glue, or to clear coat it (and mount it behind the plexi, with or without adhesive) with some clear krylon. A test with some flat white krylon (on the back of another sample print) turned out well; the dura-lar holds it well and does not react in any way, so a clear coat should go on just fine. I haven't tried this step yet, but it's on my list.
Another option is to glue the dura-lar straight to the metal. This would probably be okay, but not ideal.
The next two methods involve anodization of aluminum.
The first method is to use either a photomask (alternatively, a staedtler lumocolor pen with a stencil) as a resist on a piece of aluminum, then anodize it (black, for instance) The masked off parts will not anodize, so you dye your anodization and treat the mask as a negative basically. When you are done anodizing, you'd clean off the ink and then seal the aluminum. This should also be fairly easy and inexpensive, especially after you buy most the initial materials.
I looked around, and this place sells a suitable photoresist (dupont riston) you could use with aluminum:
pcbhobbyist.com (first post). This was the first place I could find DuPont Riston in the film form (If you know of other sites, please post.) It's basically the same as making a PCB, but instead of etching you anodize in sulfuric acid. I am not entirely sure of Staedtler Lumocolor performance in sulfuric acid, but I think it should be fine. There may be other suitable photolithographic methods, but I'm not familiar enough with that field to really say anything. Also, with a staedtler lumocolor pen, a 1/4" lettering template and a rapidograph template would get you pretty far for text, control markings, and if you're creative, graphics. (Google/ebay rapidesign templates; i.e. r-31, r-302, or r-312)
The third method is based off of anodization as well, but also a commercial product called MetalPhoto. The problem is Metalphoto seems fairly expensive from what I've found, especially in sizes larger than 11" in any dimension. However, it's basically unsealed anodized aluminum coated with silver halide over it. Basically black and white photo paper, but on aluminum. You expose and then develop, using a transparency just like above, although I think a dark room might be necessary.
Most of it's described in this patent from 1956:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=UZp...BAJ&dq=2766119
For price reference, locally there is a plastics shop that will custom cut Lexan/Plexi if you go in, a 2x24" piece. It's like $2.50, for either 1/16 or 1/8.
.025" aluminum should be adequate for an aluminum faceplate. I buy metal from a local metal supply (I have access to a brake, and taught myself how to make a chassis), but a quick check at onlinemetals pulls up $1.92 for a 2x24" of 5052. From what I've heard, 5,6, and 7XXX series aluminum is best for anodization. I've never anodized aluminum before, but I hope to try it soon. I also have access to more than enough chemicals and supplies (I'm a student/researcher in experimental physics), but most of the chemicals and supplies shouldn't be too hard to acquire. Sulfuric acid might be, but I know I can get it from the chemistry department at my school (and they sell it at cost, too), you might be able to as well.
Also, I'm working on drawings and instructions for the best way to go about making accurate chassis and cap covers with a fairly simple brake (3 BF fender styles, some others) if someone is interested. For another price reference, a DIY 24" chassis with cap cover would be around $12 (depending on metals and stuff), and not too much work. This is sort of a result of my goal to make custom sized, good looking faceplates and functional chassis at a cost of around $25 to me (assuming I will make more than one in my lifetime)
My goal was to make a durable, inexpensive, faceplate (see attachment below) with the print quality of a fine mesh screen print without necessarily using an ink as a direct marking material, ideally being able to use some sort of print off from a laser or inkjet printer. I'd also like to know if there is a place that will do inexpensive laser engraving on an arbitrary piece of metal. Most places quoted me at least $25 for a ~2x24" faceplate.
These are the 2 (well, 3, sort of) different methods I'm most confident in, but haven't thoroughly tested.
Method 1:
Probably the cheapest and easiest: Lexan/plexi faceplate.
I have seen some designs with paper behind plexiglass, but I of the opinion that paper isn't quite durable enough, especially if/when exposed to heat and time. I found a material called dura-lar, basically fairly thick polyester/mylar film, which is both laser and ink jet printable, and fairly inexpensive. I got a 25" x 40" sheet for $3 at a local arts and crafts store. I printed that faceplate design and it looks good, although it's sort of hard to find many printers that print arbitrary sizes of paper (like a 2x24" piece), so I had to print it in two pieces. A way around this is to try Kinko's or somewhere that prints in a wide format that will do that for you. Personally, I'm going to try to run in through my HP laserjet 1100 in two legal-sized paper jobs, which should be fine.
The paper I have is double matte, and the front looks kind of flat, but good. My next step is to try both gluing it to lexan with something like IPS weld-on plastic glue, or to clear coat it (and mount it behind the plexi, with or without adhesive) with some clear krylon. A test with some flat white krylon (on the back of another sample print) turned out well; the dura-lar holds it well and does not react in any way, so a clear coat should go on just fine. I haven't tried this step yet, but it's on my list.
Another option is to glue the dura-lar straight to the metal. This would probably be okay, but not ideal.
The next two methods involve anodization of aluminum.
The first method is to use either a photomask (alternatively, a staedtler lumocolor pen with a stencil) as a resist on a piece of aluminum, then anodize it (black, for instance) The masked off parts will not anodize, so you dye your anodization and treat the mask as a negative basically. When you are done anodizing, you'd clean off the ink and then seal the aluminum. This should also be fairly easy and inexpensive, especially after you buy most the initial materials.
I looked around, and this place sells a suitable photoresist (dupont riston) you could use with aluminum:
pcbhobbyist.com (first post). This was the first place I could find DuPont Riston in the film form (If you know of other sites, please post.) It's basically the same as making a PCB, but instead of etching you anodize in sulfuric acid. I am not entirely sure of Staedtler Lumocolor performance in sulfuric acid, but I think it should be fine. There may be other suitable photolithographic methods, but I'm not familiar enough with that field to really say anything. Also, with a staedtler lumocolor pen, a 1/4" lettering template and a rapidograph template would get you pretty far for text, control markings, and if you're creative, graphics. (Google/ebay rapidesign templates; i.e. r-31, r-302, or r-312)
The third method is based off of anodization as well, but also a commercial product called MetalPhoto. The problem is Metalphoto seems fairly expensive from what I've found, especially in sizes larger than 11" in any dimension. However, it's basically unsealed anodized aluminum coated with silver halide over it. Basically black and white photo paper, but on aluminum. You expose and then develop, using a transparency just like above, although I think a dark room might be necessary.
Most of it's described in this patent from 1956:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=UZp...BAJ&dq=2766119
For price reference, locally there is a plastics shop that will custom cut Lexan/Plexi if you go in, a 2x24" piece. It's like $2.50, for either 1/16 or 1/8.
.025" aluminum should be adequate for an aluminum faceplate. I buy metal from a local metal supply (I have access to a brake, and taught myself how to make a chassis), but a quick check at onlinemetals pulls up $1.92 for a 2x24" of 5052. From what I've heard, 5,6, and 7XXX series aluminum is best for anodization. I've never anodized aluminum before, but I hope to try it soon. I also have access to more than enough chemicals and supplies (I'm a student/researcher in experimental physics), but most of the chemicals and supplies shouldn't be too hard to acquire. Sulfuric acid might be, but I know I can get it from the chemistry department at my school (and they sell it at cost, too), you might be able to as well.
Also, I'm working on drawings and instructions for the best way to go about making accurate chassis and cap covers with a fairly simple brake (3 BF fender styles, some others) if someone is interested. For another price reference, a DIY 24" chassis with cap cover would be around $12 (depending on metals and stuff), and not too much work. This is sort of a result of my goal to make custom sized, good looking faceplates and functional chassis at a cost of around $25 to me (assuming I will make more than one in my lifetime)
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