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Fender 65 Princeton Reverb RI rattling sound

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  • #16
    I had a friend's stock 1975 PR. I asked him if I could borrow it to see what all the hype was about concerning the Holy-Gail-vintage-point-to-point-wired Fenders. As he wasn't using it, he was more than happy to oblige. He brings it over, we plug it in, it sounds like crap compared to mine! He looked very disappointed. It's possible that it may have just needed some new tubes or maybe a cap job, but that's another issue.

    At that point, I had only changed the 6V6 tubes in mine. When I discovered the farty sound with the volume up past five, I decided I'd check his to see if it did as well. Sure enough, it did exactly the same thing. So I pluged my speaker into his cab, his into mine, no difference. And that is when I started to make the mods. No, it's not a vibration, and its not a rattle. If you go to youtube and watch the videos I put up you can hear it. In one of the vids I took the speaker right out of the cab to demonstrate that it is not cabinet related. After I discovered the sound in my amp, which was about 3 weeks or month after buying it, I went around to three different music stores in the city and tested out their floor model PRRIs. They all did the same thing.

    I look at it this way, many players swap out tubes and speakers after buying an amp, so that would be considered a normal mod, and in fact, a speaker swap is not even really considered a mod. You don't necessarily have to change the OT, and in fact, I might suggest that you do that last. It's not an expensive component, but it does improve the sound. What you will see by putting the 12AY7 into V1 is that there is a noticeable drop in volume, which should be expected as you are reducing the head room of the amp. By putting the TO20 in, you're simply pushing the volume back up, as well as tighening up the bass a bit. By the way, if it is any consollation, the engineer who desiged the TO20 (BillM Audio in New Jersey, USA) got the OT specs from Fender, it's based on an OT from a Deluxe Reverb, which apparently many players would put in their PR's back in the day for the same reason as we do it to the re-issues today: to make it better!

    My amp is still a Fender PRRI, it's just had some changes made to it. If you haven't already, you should check out Fender Telecaster® Electric Guitar Central -- No. 1 in the World, and do a search on the forum for PRRI, you'll find some interesting threads, and an entire discussion by various members on this exact issue. Have fun, you won't regret the changes once you do them, and once they're done, it'll be a thing of the past. And yes, isn't that Celestion G10 Gold something incredible? Pricey yes, but I certainly have no regrets plunking down $240CDN for it, and I'll likely do it on the next amp that I buy. It has become my go-to speaker! However, I can see why amp manufacturers don't put it in their cabs. Can you imagine what people would think of paying $1200 for the PRRI?

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    • #17
      I replaced the baffle with 3/4" birch ply. It's hard to tell what it did, though I like the idea that I no longer have a partocle board baffle in my amp, and it weighs a bit more. When I put the 12AX7 back in, it still produces the flabby/farty sound so it wasn't the baffle, but I already new that. If you go to youtube and watch the third video, you can plainly see that the speaker is out of the cab, yet it still making the same sound. It is not cab related, if it was, the problem would go away after taking the speaker out.

      Oh, and I approached the staff at a local guitar shop and asked them if I could bring in my amp and compare it to their floor model PRRI as I wanted to see how it would sound with all the changes that I had done to it. They were more than happy to oblige and were even excited at the prospect of a comparison as none of the staff liked the PRRI. Well, they were blown away, and I can tell you it sounded better than the stock PRRI by a wide margin. As I mentioned in another thread here, I had a friend's original stock 1975 PR for a while. The day he brought it over we were both quite excited at the prospect of (another) comparison. We we plugged his in, after he heard mine, his face sank. His sounded like crap compared to mine. It was dull and lifeless. It may have just needed a new set of tubes, so I put the 6V6 GTs that came with my PRRI into his, and it helped, but it still sounded muddy compared to mine. He left it here for a about two months. I didn't turn it on again, and in fact I called him to come and get as it was taking up real estate in my basement!! What exactly is a PR supposed to sound like? It is virtually impossible to comapre these amps as they were built over a very wide ranging time period. The new amps are built with new wood, new wire, new speakers, new caps, new transformers, OTs, grill cloth, PCBs, and so forth. That cannot be compared to an amp that was builtr 25, 30, 35, 40 years ago as not only has age affected the tone of those older amps, but the components in those amps came from different places, many of which probably no longer exist. I've read and been told that the new RIs don't sound anything like the original PRs, DRs, etc. Well if that is the case, then modding a PRRI might actually make it closer to an original PR. The people that have heard my PRRI certainly didn't seem to think that it was no longer a PR sounding amp. Quite the contrary.

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      • #18
        Here's the link: YouTube - 1st of 3 videos. Fender PRRI test: Speaker flabby/farty sound with 12AX7 in V1 It's the first of three videos. Use headphones on your computer for a better sound. It was not recorded with professional sound equipment. I used my Canon D7 with the on-board mike, which I'm sure was not intended to be used at such volumes. Have fun. I'll post another one this weekend with me just plucking away so that you can get a sense for the sound.

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        • #19
          It wasn't the baffle, but you changed it anyway?

          You took the speaker out of the cab of an amp that didn't rattle, just to see if it would rattle out of the cab?

          "That cannot be compared to an amp that was builtr 25, 30, 35, 40 years ago as not only has age affected the tone of those older amps" not entirely true, not entirely untrue either. Newness isn't the issue, speakers yes, cabinet, if different construction yes, but most importantly it's voltages in the amp, old Princetons run 425-450vdc depending on bias, the RI runs up to 470vdc at regular currents, more if biased cold. Wire, transformers don't "age" as such. New amps that are closely modelled on 50yr old amps sound like 50yr old amps in good condition.

          I know I seem skeptical, I'm not merely trying to poke holes in your satement, I am glad that you have an amp that you are pleased with and that impresses others, we just don't have the info as to what it was that specifically cured the rattle in your case.

          "I can tell you it sounded better than the stock PRRI by a wide margin" I don't doubt it did, but then the stock amp hadn't quite had the attention yours has had & cost 33% less than your amp. Again, I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but it's not much consolation for someone who has just spent 800 on a DRRI to realise that they are still 400 short of having a "working" amplifier.

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          • #20
            Yeah, that's why I think this is more properly classed as a mod than a "repair". Maybe all PRRIs have that kind of farty distortion.

            It's also an issue of semantics: if it isn't a mechanical rattle, you shouldn't call it one.

            My work computer doesn't have any speakers at all, I might take a listen from home tonight.
            "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

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            • #21
              I would say that it was the 12AY7 more than anything. I never suspected that the baffle was rattling, or contributing to the sound. Others on tdpri suggested that the PB baffle was a known, common issue with the PRRI, so being that I had a slab of 3/4" birch ply in the garage, and pile of electical tools (and a can of black spray paint) I thought, what the hell, it's not going to hurt. But like I said, it is really hard to say what exactly changed. It is a totally different type of wood product, and it is much more solid than a piece 1/2" PB. Someone on tdpri did the baffle change as well and he thought it was "tighter" sounding, better bass, which might seem to make sense.

              And yes, I took the speaker out of the cab to see if the farty/flabby/rattle sound was cab related. And it wasn't as you can clearly hear in the video. I beleive, and one other much more knowledgeable person on tdpri also agrees, that it is a circuitry related issue. He identified what he thought needed to be done, and it would mean changing the values of a couple of caps. If you go to tdpri and look through the thread you'll find his advise, his name is Wally. I'll see if I can find it and post it. I'm not likely to go that route, as I am happy with the amp now. Maybe if I win a lottery I'll do it just to satisfy my curiousity!

              Ya, I would rather not have to have spent $400 extra!! Fender should fix the problem. To be honest, and fair to Fender though, I didn't need to change the speaker, there wasn't really anything wrong with the stock Jensen, though to my ears, it sounded a bit on the bright side, but it was "okay". So in reality, you could fix the problem without changing the speaker, or the baffle, and possibly even the OT. Unfortunately, I changed the OT before I discovered what the 12AY7 would do. The upside to putting in the TO20 is that it boosts the volume back up to what would be a normal PRRI level with the 12AY7 in there.

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              • #22
                Well, that is useful to know...if the 12AY "did the job" it looks likely that it could be as much of an oscillation issue, like on the Marshall 1962 RI. If this is the case, taming highs/gain might help, maybe pulling back preamp voltage to closer to vintage specs.

                Out of interest Jared, have you tried a 5751 in V1 (halfway between 12AX7 & 12AY mu wise, draws more current than 12AX7)?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by MWJB View Post
                  Well, that is useful to know...if the 12AY "did the job" it looks likely that it could be as much of an oscillation issue, like on the Marshall 1962 RI. If this is the case, taming highs/gain might help, maybe pulling back preamp voltage to closer to vintage specs.

                  Out of interest Jared, have you tried a 5751 in V1 (halfway between 12AX7 & 12AY mu wise, draws more current than 12AX7)?
                  Well, no I haven't, but I'm going to buy one today! Thanks for that tip. To be honest, I am really quite a novice at this stuff, but I have been learning fast! I started playing electric just last December, and being the tinkerer that I am, I wasn't afraid to try a few things myself. I would never attmept a circuit board mod though, I would prefer to pay someone to do that. Amps are fun, possibly even more so than the guitar I've been toying with the idea of getting a second amp, one that has a few more bells and whistles. The Mesa Boogie Lonestar Special has caught my attention as it has the Fender clean tone, but also earlier gain options on the second channel. If Fender had a mutli wattage option on their Supersonic, I likely would have bought that amp as the first channel is Fender classic.

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                  • #24
                    I had a look at the three videos. My home computer is plugged into my stereo so I got a good listen too. That doesn't sound like a rattle at all, it's just what happens when you crank an amp up with lots of bass. You get farty-sounding distortion and the speaker flaps like crazy.

                    It's a bit of a grey area. I'd regard a bit of farting as normal for a vintage amp or a vintage-correct reissue, and I just wouldn't crank the amp with the bass turned up and the neck pickup engaged. I might even use a treble boost pedal to drive it. How does it sound with the bass on 0-2 and using the bridge pickup? Remember that on guitar amp controls, 5 is still a boost.

                    However, in my own homebuilt amps I put some bass cut and/or treble boost into the circuit, so they don't do it.
                    "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

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                    • #25
                      I haven't played threw as many amps as a lot of people on this forum have, but I've tried a few and in general when I'm at the stores checking them out I ask if I can crank them to 5 for a couple minutes and I can't recall a single unit that ''ve tried giving out like the stock PRRI does. I bought a Mesa Boogie Lonestar Special yesterday, and it didn't produce anything like the kind of sound out of the speaker with the amp at 5 and the bass on full as what I get (got) form the (stock) PRRI with the bass on 5! Mine PRRI does fart out anymore, but I had to make some fairly significant changes to get it there!

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                      • #26
                        Turning an amp to "5" means nothing more than the volume knob points to a number "5" painted on the chassis, it's not a measurement of anything. Some amps go up to "12", some to "10", some start at "1", some start at "0", some have 10% taper pots, some have 30% taper pots some have linear pots, some have resistors tacked accross the pot wiper to soften the sweep, some have 1Meg pots, some have 1Meg pots that read 350K in circuit, some have 250K pots, some run out of headroom at a quarter of a turn, some at 3/4 of a turn. Different guitars put out differing signal voltages, which basically turns the volume up & down at the same setting.

                        When someone says that their amp is set to "5", my first question is "five what?", 5 kilos, 5 pints, 5 dancing elephants...?

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                        • #27
                          5 dancing elephants of course, I mean what else could it possibly be?

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Jared Purdy View Post
                            I bought a Mesa Boogie Lonestar Special yesterday, and it didn't produce anything like the kind of sound out of the speaker with the amp at 5 and the bass on full as what I get (got) form the (stock) PRRI with the bass on 5!
                            Oh, well congrats on your new purchase... I guess that's another valid way of solving the farting problem

                            Mesas aren't "vintage" anything, they are completely modern amp designs with the benefit of everything that's been learnt in the 70s and 80s. I've never played one (I got into amp building because I wanted a Dual Rectifier but couldn't afford it ) but I'd expect a Mesa to be voiced a lot tighter and more aggressive than a Princeton.

                            Ironically, as far as I know anyway, the first Mesa Boogies were Princetons with the guts removed and replaced by a 50W amplifier of Randall Smith's own design with a heavy duty 12" speaker. I guess he probably didn't like Princetons much either.
                            "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

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                            • #29
                              I read an articIe on how the company got started: I forget the owners name, but he use to do amp mods and repairs for Carlos Santana, the guys from the Jefferson Airplane, the G. Dead, and a bunch of other Bay area bands of the day. Eventually he just took what he new and there you have it. So yes, there is definately a very Fendery sound when the amp is played clean, and you can even more or less replicate the break up of a DR or a PR when those amps are played at higher volumes. As for whether you can replicate other Fender amps? I have no idea, but I'm going to have fun trying!! Oh, and the farty sound is gone now. I leave the controls pretty much the same from 0-10: treble 5, bass 5, reverb 2.5/3, vibrato speed 2.5, and intensity at 5-6. No farty sound with the amp at 10 with the controls dialed in like that.

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                              • #30
                                " I leave the controls pretty much the same from 0-10:" Ha ha, Jared, you appear to have an ultra rare Fender PRRI that is numbered from "0" to "10"! :-) There is one amplifier that I am aware of, that I always (tongue in cheek) tell people to set to "8 - 'cause that's when the magic happens"...the dial reads 6, 7, 9...

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