Large Electrolytics

[lowell]

Having a hard time finding "solderable" high value uf electrolytics. 10,000uf 35v for LM3886 PA. Most that I find are computer grade with the screw in terminals. Maybe these are better? How does one connect wires to these and is it not better to solder vs screw in? I did find some at BGmicro but they are quite cheap at $1.25. Not complaining about affordability, but question quality.

[R.G.]

Look for "snap in" terminals. Mouser has 10,000uF 35V to 50V caps for about $4.00 in ones, brand new. I bought a batch of 18,000uF/50V snap ins for about $1.25 a while back.

Leaded big uF caps may not be all that suitable for filtering DC for a power amplifier. The ESR may not be low enough to let it survive the internal heating of the ripple current passing through the ESR.

[R.G.]

Re read your note, realized I didn't answer your questions.

"Computer grade" was a premium cap made for the computer industry when being in (mainframe) computers was like a license to print money. The screw-in terminals were made to be connected through crimped ring terminals. This was back before printed circuit board was really reliable enough to carry the currents or the suspended weight of the sometimes-huge caps. They were a premium product.

They're not so premium if they're more than about 5-10 years old. They decay on the shelf. Modern power supply practice has gone to much physically smaller but still robust snap in packages for the heavy power filtering unless you just can't get reliable attachment of the weight of the cap to a board.

Today, as I noted in my first post, I'd select radial snap-in terminal caps, and create huge capacitances with a PCB mounted array of them.

[Amp Kat]

I stunbled across this place and bought a few 19k 40 volters for our old Executone PBK's and they are very reasonable and not computer grade and do the job for the price check them out.



Motor Run Capacitors at Tedss.com

[R.G.]

I looked at BGmicro. If this is what you found:
12000UF/35V Snap-In
part number CAP1172, I wouldn't be concerned about the cap quality in this use. 35V is very close to the 31V that's a practical working maximum for the LM3886, but it's fine. I'd have preferred 50V, but I like belts and suspenders. Too bad you couldn't get some of the 15,000/63 V that are now out of stock.

[tedmich]

West Florida Components has some leaded 10k uF 35v Nichicons
10000uF 35V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor Nichicon UVR1V103MRA: In Stock Buy Now | West Florida Components
and higher voltage snap ins too, although Mouser prices aren't too much higher

Anyone try the $8 LG Subwoofers at BGMicro??
Quality Woofer From LG

[lowell]

Youre good RG, yes those are them.

Side note, why aren't there caps fitted with nice heavy solder tabs? Tabs like your standard 25A bridge rectifier typically has? It seems either snap-in or screw-in.

[tedmich]

you mean like the old fashioned "twist tab" F&T caps favored by SLO and Vox builders?

that's really old tech nowadays, heavy duty uses screw posts,


or the multi contact snap ins

often combined with brackets or adhesive for stability

[lowell]

Seems those bulky "old" tabs are more sturdy to solder to than those thin snap in leads.

[Enzo]

SNap-ins are intended to be soldered to a circuit board. I don;t let that stop me from soldering a wire to it though.

[soundguruman]

Having a hard time finding "solderable" high value uf electrolytics. 10,000uf 35v for LM3886 PA. Most that I find are computer grade with the screw in terminals. Maybe these are better? How does one connect wires to these and is it not better to solder vs screw in? I did find some at BGmicro but they are quite cheap at $1.25. Not complaining about affordability, but question quality.

The computer ones are better, longer life hours, more ripple current rating, higher temp rating.
Clamp mounting.
But also pretty expensive.
You just get some ring terminals and solder the ring to the wire.