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  • Vox AC15 issue

    Hi,

    I just gutted my Fender Hot Rod Deluxe to convert it into a Vox AC15. Here is the schematic and layout I used and some pictures of the build :

    Schematic :
    http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/..._handwired.pdf

    Layout :
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/28610725/Tu...Board%20v2.pdf

    Pictures :
    http://imageshack.us/a/img641/8828/dscf0997d.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img198/7179/dscf0996q.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img811/5323/dscf0995l.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img411/8844/dscf0992p.jpg
    http://imageshack.us/a/img22/6493/dscf0998i.jpg

    There are some differences between my build and the schematic :

    - I used silicon diodes for the rectifier. I kept the Fender design for it and added a series resistor to get some voltage sag out of it.

    - As the Fender trafo is 325-325 instead of the 300-0-300 expected in the Vox, I dropped some voltage through two 1N5364B zener diodes in parallel (33V). I've seen this trick in the TAD Tonebone 6L6GC to EL84 adapter. The EL84 are over voltaged, but that's the way the AC15 is designed (about 370V on the plate at idle...)

    - The filter caps in the PSU are MKP polypropylene. Those weren't too expensive so I replaced the electrolytics by those.

    - The output tubes are not supplied by the choke because the Fender one is only rated for 50mA, that's not enough for the 100mA of the EL84 in the Vox circuit.

    - I replaced the EF86 pentode circuit by the first half of th 12AX7 normally used in the Brilliant circuit, as it's done in some AC30s. I decided to do it after reading Merlin' Blencowe's book and to avoid microphony problems.

    - I added a master volume pot, as implemented in the latest AC15 designs.

    - I removed the "low" input jack, as I do not plan tu use it and as I don't want to drill holes in the enclosure.

    Unfortunately, it doesn't work fine. It seems that there is a problem with the output tubes but I'm not sure, that's why I'm looking for some help : I don't want to buy a pair of EL84 and fry them in a few seconds.

    Here are my experimentations until now :

    When I first switched it on, I noticed that the EL84's plate became red hot, and after I measured the idle current I found out I had an idle current of 113mA for both tube + the screen grid current. I also noticed that I had a non negligeable voltage at the control grid : about 15V ! This value seemed to increase with time, as well as the grid/cathode voltage decreases, and thus idle current (deduced by measuring cathode voltage) increases. I didn't let the tube run like this during a long time, hoping I didn't let them long enough to fry them...

    Taking a look at the PSU, I measured 391V right after the full wave rectifier (instead of the 440V without load). I'm a bit surprised that the trafo is already on its knees as it is rated for 120mA (from Hammond's equivalent datasheet, http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/EDB290UX.pdf ). I measured 374V after the series resistor (B+), which is about the voltage Vox runs its EL84 in the AC15, so that shouldn't fry the tubes.

    Another thing that surprised me is that the zener diodes I added in series (1N5364B, 33V) only drops about 10V instead of the 33V expected.

    As the control grid is the only place where some current can flow for a voltage to take place, I deduced that I had some control grid current (15v/220k so about 68uA). Does that come from faulty tubes ?

    Then I tried to increase the cathode resistor. I had a 470R/5W so I put it in place of the 150R. Now the tubes run a lot cooler but I still have about 15V at the control grids, so those are still sinking current. I tried to plug it in a speaker (for now I ran the amp through a 7,5R/50W dummy load). The amp isn't as loud as a 15W tube amp should be, and I can hear hum. The normal channel seems quite fine, but the brilliant channel starts oscillating as I increase the gain. The frequency of the oscillations is about 20kHz. That occurs with the dummy load as well as with the speaker, so that doesn't seems to be related with microphony

    I then disconnected the output tubes to check if the oscillations take place already in the preamp. It doesn't : everything seems just fine without the EL84, frim the input stage to the output of the PI.

    Another thing : when I run a test signal into the amp with the EL84 in place and the dummy load, I can slightly hear it as I increase the output level ! Is that normal ?

    Do you see any mistake in my wiring ? I triple checked the layout against the schematic, and the build against the layout but I might have made some fundamental stupid error in the design process... I'm always looking for learning and understanding what's happening so any explanation on those phenomena would be appreciated !

    Best regards.

    Eric
    Last edited by ricothetroll; 10-25-2012, 08:48 AM. Reason: link missing

  • #2
    Bad file attachment.

    Comment


    • #3
      I tried to edit the post but now it simply disapeared...

      The links I provided are valid, this "file attachement" that appears at the bottom of the page looks like it is some automatic add from the forum itself. I don't know how to remove it...

      Best regards.
      Eric
      Last edited by ricothetroll; 10-25-2012, 03:48 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I just don't understand why my initial post has disapeared after I edited it ! Is that a bug ?

        Comment


        • #5
          Your post went into the moderation queue because it triggered the anti-spam system, probably because it contained so many links and you're a fairly new member.
          -tb

          "If you're the only person I irritate with my choice of words today I'll be surprised" Chuck H.

          Comment


          • #6
            I deleted the attachment because the file was unreadable. Since there's nothing under "Layout:" in your post above, I'm guessing the bad file was the turret-board layout you used?
            -tb

            "If you're the only person I irritate with my choice of words today I'll be surprised" Chuck H.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Tboy,
              I actually tried to delete the dropbox link (layout) and I intended to put it back again as I didn't find any way to delete the attachement myself. Thanx for your explanations !
              Now I edit the message put it back again..
              Best regards.
              Eric

              Comment


              • #8
                Did you use the zener in // or series (that's not clear from your posts) because you can't use zener alone in // to have a better current rating : they NEVER have the exact same voltage drop, and they have a low series resistance, so one will always pass more current, then heat, then drop less voltage, then pass even more current, heat, drop less voltage etc. If you want to use them this way, you must add a series resistance for each diode, best to use two lower drop zener in series.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Don't get mad at me, but I would *never ever* turn a 2x6L6 based amp into a 2xEL84 based one.
                  Everything's wrong !!
                  From the sockets to the iron.
                  If not happy with a HRD , fine with me, but drop in some other classic board which *sounds* different but matches what you have.
                  jm2c
                  Juan Manuel Fahey

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BTW 370 volts on the plate with a 130 ohms cathode resistor ? I don't believe it a single second, there's NO currently built EL84 that can stand this abuse.
                    In my experience, even 340 volts is already too much voltage for this high bias.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi,

                      Thanx for your answers !

                      I finally got the amp to work, I moved the zeners after the filter cap and changed the faulty tubes and now it's working well ! The oscillations were caused by some feedback from the screen grid to the preamp stages through the supply. I added a RC filter (470R/5W + 2x 22u/400V) before the 100R resistors connected to the screen grid and now the oscillations stopped.

                      Originally posted by kleuck View Post
                      Did you use the zener in // or series (that's not clear from your posts) because you can't use zener alone in // to have a better current rating : they NEVER have the exact same voltage drop, and they have a low series resistance, so one will always pass more current, then heat, then drop less voltage, then pass even more current, heat, drop less voltage etc. If you want to use them this way, you must add a series resistance for each diode, best to use two lower drop zener in series.
                      Thanx for this great advice ! I was actually running those in parallel, so now I replaced them with 4x 15V in series to achieve about the same voltage drop.

                      Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post
                      Don't get mad at me, but I would *never ever* turn a 2x6L6 based amp into a 2xEL84 based one.
                      Everything's wrong !!
                      From the sockets to the iron.
                      If not happy with a HRD , fine with me, but drop in some other classic board which *sounds* different but matches what you have.
                      jm2c
                      Well, I already ran the amp through TAD's Tonebone 6L6GC->EL84 adapter but those are known for being pretty fragile so I though that a "real" EL84 circuit would be better !

                      I'm not mad at you, in a way I know you're right

                      Originally posted by kleuck View Post
                      BTW 370 volts on the plate with a 130 ohms cathode resistor ? I don't believe it a single second, there's NO currently built EL84 that can stand this abuse.
                      In my experience, even 340 volts is already too much voltage for this high bias.
                      That's exactly what I though when I analysed Vox's schematics (AC15 & AC30), but the fact is they run their tube REALLY hot : as you can see at the AC15CC1 schematic, they run each EL85 at Ip = 48mA / Vp = 374V / Rk = 120R, that's a dissipation of 17,4W at idle ! Mine runs now at
                      Vp = 357V / Ip = 43mA / Rk = 150R, so a dissipation of 15,4W, which is already abused for a 12W tube, I agree.
                      http://www.guitarnewsdaily.com/wp-co...matic_only.pdf
                      This AC30 is even worse : 23W !
                      http://www.webphix.com/schematic%20h...s/ac30vrev.pdf

                      No wonder why those amps are known as tube beaters... I'll never go to a show without a spare pair of tubes ! Hoping they won't blow anything else when failing...

                      Best regards.

                      Eric

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I know that VOX are not kind on the tube, but 370 volts/130 ohms just sounds plainly impossible in a reissue.I had a Laney VC30, same power circuit than a VC30 and about the same voltages, and it was already a tube eater, and dissipation was about 15 watts, 370 volts would lead to something like 20 (or 23) like you say, and no EL84 can stand that.
                        According to Randall Aiken and from the official schemo, each plate dissipates 14,7 watts.
                        As for the AC15 : don't forget that with an EZ81, there's a big voltage drop, if the PT has enough series resistance to meet the expected one according to the datasheet, voltage on the anodes should not exceed 320 330 volts (i suppose too that the choke exhibits a resistance of at least 100 Ohms, etc)
                        So with no choke and no tube rectifier, you are harder on your tubes than Vox himself
                        Don't forget neither that the voltage to use in calculation is the Plate-to-cathode one, not the Plate to ground, so you must subtract 15-20 volts usually with EL84 >> 14,8 watts in you amp (don't forget to subtract screen current).
                        Still high imo, i would add another zener to drop the voltage, or better, use a resistor for added compression, and try to have 12 watts, that's already high enough with these tiny tubes.
                        You can use a higher cathode resistor too, in 1974X builders use generally between 150 and 180 ohms -vintage ones were hard on the tubes too- depending on the voltage, generally between 320 and 340 volts (so same ballpark)
                        Last edited by kleuck; 10-26-2012, 08:21 AM.

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