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Using rub-on letters?

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  • Using rub-on letters?

    Can anyone offer any tips on applying rub on letters? Getting them straight? consistent spacing? I can see that each letter is underlined on the ones I ordered. I'm thinking that I can line that up to a tape edge. They are going on a gray hamertone finish, so I don't think a pencil line would work. What about spacing? Do I just eye ball it?

    Thanks!
    Vote like your future depends on it.

  • #2
    You might lay down a strip of tape as a guide, then peel it away when you are done. Scotch tape is a lot thinner than masking tape and might work better.

    As to spacing, look up "kerning" for information. I do that by eye myself.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #3
      +1 for kerning. In my younger days, I'd meticulously lay out letters equally spaced - and was always disappointed with the results. Your eyeballs (& the stuff that connects them to your fingers) will give you good, natural-looking results. I'd advise that you lay out the letters in the 'total given space' to see how you want to adjust their relative positions. once you lay two letters out together, your sense of proportion will force you to continue with the same spacing scheme, whether or not the text fills up the space you envisioned for it.
      If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
      If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
      We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
      MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey

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      • #4
        It might be helpful to know that there is an alternative to rub on letters called lazertran it's great for panels and pedals although not so convenient on repairs as you have to bake the metal in the oven.

        my effort can be seen here :
        MikeyDee's Sussex build diary - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

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        • #5
          Nice work, mikey.

          In the finished photos, I recognize the row of Marshall knobs and the other non-chickenhead knob. They look fine, and no one outside our industry would note that, I just enjoyed seeing them repurposed like that.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #6
            Mikey, that really is beautiful! It won't really work for me though. Probably too expensive, and I can't bake mine. I just want to re-label the controlls on my converted PA, VOLUME 1, VOLUME 2, BASS, TREBLEClick image for larger version

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            Eschertron, In order to get the words centered under each knob, I thought I would start each word in the middle then work out to the begining and end.
            Vote like your future depends on it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dmartn149 View Post
              ...In order to get the words centered under each knob, I thought I would start each word in the middle then work out to the begining and end.
              Yes. That would have been my first tip if you hadn’t already thought of it. Combined with the proper kerning it’s the best way to achieve centered labels.

              Other tips I can offer from experience with rub on labels are:
              1. Make sure that the paned is squeaky clean before you start.
              2. Don’t ever let the back of the rub on sheet contact dirty or dusty surfaces as you work. If the back of the transfer sheet gets contaminated then the “stick” will be degraded.
              3. Developing the optimum application technique is key. Practice first using some parts of the sheet that you won’t need for your project. This will allow you to develop good technique and try different rubbing instruments. Note that the pressure you use and the amount of rubbing is important. I find that, once the letter is stuck to the panel, too much more rubbing will weaken the bond and may even crack the letter. (This is especially important to me because my stash of rub on letters is 40 years old!)
              4. After the rub on is completed the letters are usually coated with a clear spray to protect the finished work. You can use your practice sample to try out the coating before applying it to your project panel.


              Hope these ideas help.
              Tom
              Last edited by Tom Phillips; 01-05-2013, 06:36 PM. Reason: Typo Fix

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              • #8
                Thanks Tom. Practice sounds like a great idea. That way I can mess up the letters I won't need. Not just rubbing technique, but kerning and alignment too.
                Vote like your future depends on it.

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                • #9
                  Yes I can see why you would be going for a rub on letters. Although as I am not very neat I would explore using a transparency printout as a template? There are some tutorials on Letraset - Home of Tria Marker, ProMarker, AquaMarker, Safmat and more... too maybe they can explain how to make a success of it. The only other Another similar option is "Decal" printer paper; you can make little transfers like the old model aircraft kits?

                  Thanks for the kind words on my project I am really pleased with the results. @Enzo - you spotted my deliberate "amp-homage" design and also lookalike Marshall knobs are pretty cheap, like me! When it's finished the knobs will be a combination of Marshall, chicken head and one knurled Fender Precision bass type; for the multi-turn grid control.

                  +1 on the cleaning comment. I must have polished my aluminium panel for 15 minutes with solvent but there are still a few defects if you have the eyes to see them which I presume are caused by residue.

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                  • #10
                    What I used to use was a sheet of tracing paper to use as a guide. I would start by tracing the words out to get the spelling and spacing correct. Then I'd place the paper tracing where I wanted the word to go and then slip the lettering sheet under the tracing paper guide and then rub down the letters in place.

                    Just another way to get there.

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                    • #11
                      Wow! Bill that's a great idea. Now I'm thinking I should use my printer, and print them out in a hollow, outline font on tracing paper.
                      Thanks!
                      Vote like your future depends on it.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mikeydee77 View Post
                        It might be helpful to know that there is an alternative to rub on letters called lazertran it's great for panels and pedals although not so convenient on repairs as you have to bake the metal in the oven.

                        my effort can be seen here :
                        MikeyDee's Sussex build diary - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
                        That looks fantastic. I'll have to try some of these out. Hopefully my local printshop has the right sort of laser printers.

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