I have another quick newby question: The 12AX7 numbering - looking from the un-numbered socket - is the same as the 6V6 / 5Y3 correct? counter clockwise 1 through 9?
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Your profile does not specify your location. Do clocks run the other way in the southern hemisphere? From the side where you connect the wires, the pins are numbered Clockwise 1 - 9 (or 8) on tube sockets. Look at almost any layout.WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !
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Originally posted by loudthud View PostTime to check the output transformer for continunity and shorts. There should be just four wires. disconnect them all. From the red to blue the resistance should be about 280 ohms. They should be infinite to ground or the transformer frame. When measuring very high resistances, you must not touch both leads with your fingers. Use some kind of clip lead.
Between the yellow and black wires the ohms should be very low, about 0.3 ohms. They both should be infinite to ground or the transformer frame. Resistance values taken from the Hammond data sheet. There have been plenty of examples where a perfectly good transformer just had the wire colors mixed up.
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Originally posted by glowysourworm View PostSo, the heater wires have a center tap to ground; and I used the "hum reduction" strategy by twisting them together and connecting them to 2/7 and 9/4 of the sockets. Do you think there could be a problem using the twisted pair heater wires to the 6V6 and 12AX7?
2) If you only connect between 9/4 of a 12A_7 then you are only powering one of the two heater sections of the tube. Pin 4 should be connected to pin 5 to energize the other heater. That could explain your "I don't have anything coming through from the guitar." comment in post #15.
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Originally posted by Tom Phillips View Post1) Twisting would not be a problem unless you damaged the wires and shorted them together in the process.
2) If you only connect between 9/4 of a 12A_7 then you are only powering one of the two heater sections of the tube. Pin 4 should be connected to pin 5 to energize the other heater. That could explain your "I don't have anything coming through from the guitar." comment in post #15.
The DC voltage at pin 8 of the PT is 400V and 294V on the other side of the 10k resistor tied to that node.
As a last ditch effort - I'm just gonna do a quick continuity test to look for shorted socket nodes. Then probably just buy a PCB kit and new board components.... GAH!
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There is not too much to this circuit. Checking voltages on the preamp tubes should give some popping sounds if you have the volume up. (pins 2 & 7).
How about listing your DC voltages for both tubes.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostThere is not too much to this circuit. Checking voltages on the preamp tubes should give some popping sounds if you have the volume up. (pins 2 & 7).
How about listing your DC voltages for both tubes.
Ok, so I just went and checked the DC voltages and think I found the culprit finally.
Pin 8 of the PT was high: 400VDC
Then the voltage ladder through the filter resistors was also a little high: 320VDC (pin 4 6V6), 300VDC (other side of 22k resistor attached to pin 4)
I also found that the voltage on the other side of the 2 100k resistors was near 0VDC; and pin 1 of the 12AX7 was at 250VDC (which is 100V higher than the normal operating point)
So I think the joint from those 2 100k resistsors to the 22k resistor in the filter section is bad. The soldering iron is heating up right now so I'll repost if that fixes it. This info has to be useful to someone out there right?
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Ok, I'll try this again: please list the DC voltages for both tubes.
12ax7 pins 1,2,3,6,7,8
6V6 pins 3,4,5, & 8Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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