Have you tried Craig's List for an older 1960 or 1965 cabinet. They are out there if you are patient. $200-250 usually. And broken in.
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Are the cheap Marshall MX 4X12 cabinet any good?
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Update:
I braced the Marshall combo.
Obviously I cannot A/B compare before and after. But I cranked it up, I sure did not hear any boxiness this morning. I have not painted it black yet, and my carpentry is less than good. But it is sturdy. Not only I screwed the braces in tight, I use wood glue also. This cabinet is strong now.
One thing I notice, it is not as loud after bracing. Maybe the cabinet stop vibrating and making sound!!!!!
I can't wait for the WGS Veteran 30 to arrive. The speaker in the picture is only an Eminence speaker taken out from a stock Fender Rock Pro cabinet. It still sounds a mile better than the original Celestion G12H-100.
I definitely do not need a new cabinet anymore.Last edited by Alan0354; 08-31-2014, 06:22 PM.
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While you did a beautiful job with the bracing...
Noting that you added braces at the very top, and assuming that you built a back panel that goes from bottom to 'top'...Did you consider allowances of some sort for those tubes/trannies to breath? If you go bottom to top as braced, you'll be trapping a ton of heat inside and cutting the lifespan of all components.
The only safe way to convert a combo cab IMO is to remove the head from it. And then seal the remainder. The tubes and such still need to breath. Especially if you're going to 'crank' it to any extent (which would be a given with a Marshall in my book). The closest you can get with that cabinet is to stop the back where the factory back stopped. Although that still negates the full effect of a sealed cabinet, it'll be 'closer' than it was previously with a giant gaping hole in the middle of the stock back.Start simple...then go deep!
"EL84's are the bitches of guitar amp design." Chuck H
"How could they know back in 1980-whatever that there'd come a time when it was easier to find the wreck of the Titanic than find another SAD1024?" -Mark Hammer
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Originally posted by Audiotexan View PostWhile you did a beautiful job with the bracing...
Noting that you added braces at the very top, and assuming that you built a back panel that goes from bottom to 'top'...Did you consider allowances of some sort for those tubes/trannies to breath? If you go bottom to top as braced, you'll be trapping a ton of heat inside and cutting the lifespan of all components.
The only safe way to convert a combo cab IMO is to remove the head from it. And then seal the remainder. The tubes and such still need to breath. Especially if you're going to 'crank' it to any extent (which would be a given with a Marshall in my book). The closest you can get with that cabinet is to stop the back where the factory back stopped. Although that still negates the full effect of a sealed cabinet, it'll be 'closer' than it was previously with a giant gaping hole in the middle of the stock back.
I am trying to keep it as a typical open back combo, just get as close to the Marshall as possible only. My other build into the KMD has a better cabinet, using a WGS G12C/S does give me a thick strong sound, just not like a Marshall. I am hoping the WGS Veteran 30 will bring it closer.
As an open back, I don't think it will trap heat. The two pieces on the top is just to help to support the chassis when I unscrew from the top. There is nothing to hold the chassis when you unscrew from the top and you have to use one hand to support while unscrewing the screws. As you can see, the two power tubes are in the middle far from any brace. The two upper brace also serve to prevent the upper part of the box from vibrating.
I am even consider bracing the KMD to see what improvement I can get from it. Old BF and SF Fender have stronger cabinets, maybe that's the reason they sound better. I have been using 3 different amps driving into different cabinets, my Pro Reverb sounds the best bar none and the Marshall the worst.
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Originally posted by Alan0354 View PostI am trying to keep it as a typical open back combo...
<snip>
...The two pieces on the top is just to help to support the chassis when I unscrew from the top. There is nothing to hold the chassis when you unscrew from the top and you have to use one hand to support while unscrewing the screws.
Sorry, don't mind me, I got lost as usual. *chuckles*
Those top braces will make a fine chassis support!
Again, beautiful job!Start simple...then go deep!
"EL84's are the bitches of guitar amp design." Chuck H
"How could they know back in 1980-whatever that there'd come a time when it was easier to find the wreck of the Titanic than find another SAD1024?" -Mark Hammer
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