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Ticking tremolo

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  • #16
    Originally posted by catstrat View Post
    My meter shows .261.
    Originally posted by catstrat View Post
    That reading was on the 200 ohm scale.
    If one end of the tank is giving you a .2ohm reading, there is a short somewhere. Either in the transducer, the connector, or the cable, depending where you are measuring. You would get no output from a tank with a short at one end.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • #17
      Originally posted by catstrat View Post
      I took my heat gun and re melted the wax on the parts board and low and behold the voltage at V4 pin 6 jumped up to 135 volts.I think that is still a little low but i'll check the schematic.
      OOOoooohhh... Could be a conductive area on the circuit board. Which is bad.

      135V is about 75V lower than the schematic (for what that's worth). But the telling thing is that you did NOTHING to the circuit and gained 60 volts!?! For the number of black paper circuit boards I've dealt with I've seen a very unacceptable ratio of them with some conductivity on the board itself and two cases where board replacement was needed. Try this: Set your meter for DCV. Start with the low range. Touch the black probe to the chassis and jam the red one into the circuit board, hard, NEAR any eyelets that are associated with V4 pin 7.

      That you heated the board and it got better might be a good sign though. Sometimes those boards become conductive because they're in a high humidity environment and a thorough drying out solves the problem. Other times

      Fingers crossed.
      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

      "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
      You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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      • #18
        If it's a conductive board you can 'hack solve' some of the issues caused by it by lifting some joints, i.e. no soldering in eyelets or any connection to the board. I don't think you should replace the 100k resistor until 100% sure on what's causing the problem in the first place.
        In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.

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        • #19
          I just checked the voltage at the grid of V4 pin7 and got 45 volts dc. That's probably my problem. But it could be the board to. I'll do some more drying with my heatgun first.
          We have plenty of humidity here, that's for sure. Thanks.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by catstrat View Post
            I just checked the voltage at the grid of V4 pin7 and got 45 volts dc. That's probably my problem. But it could be the board to. I'll do some more drying with my heatgun first.
            We have plenty of humidity here, that's for sure. Thanks.
            I'm tellin' ya! Jam the probe into the board near the eyelets and see if you can read voltage right off the board. If not, lift the .02 coupling cap and re test for voltage on the eyelet. If there's none replace that capacitor.
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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            • #21
              ticking tremolo

              I need to give you a big thanks ChuckH and everyone else. For starters i lifted one side of the coupling cap before V4 pin 6. The voltage at the grid was about 4 volts. I replaced that cap and now pin 6 voltage is 186 volts and no voltage at all on V4 pin 7. I tested the reverb and it's still not working. I tested it with a test tank i found in my stock and the reverb worked so it is a defective tank after all. The cables test good. The tremolo is still ticking but i'm not done with that yet. I replaced the reverb transformer because i had no voltage at the reverb send tube due to a broken winding in the primary. After i replaced the driver it was sending a signal to the tank but nothing out of it.
              I don't know why i do this but when people suggest checking the coupling caps i check the caps following the problem stage and not before. It's the one before that will throw the tubes bias out. In this case , that's exactly what it was, the cap before V4. Which leads me to another question. I've been told by folks in the past, if you lift the cap lead opposite the plate you should have voltage present if the cap is leaky. I tried that with this cap and there was no voltage at all. I just replaced it and that was the fix. I guess you have to have a load before the caps shows any leaking. Another problem, i started this business in 2005. Since then i've done well over 1600 repairs but only about 1 per cent have been vintage amps. The rest are amps newer than 1985. But an amps circuit are pretty much the same across the board. But vintage Fender amps are the one's i have the most fits with,usually the tremolo circuits.
              Anyway thanks to all for the help on this. I hope i don't have to bother ya'll anymore, but we'll see.

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