i didnt notice the amp was 110v so i plugged it to 220v is it gone or ?

[ultrareflex]

Hi guys bought an electric guitar amp from USA, i live in a place where its mostly 220v i rushed and plugged the 110v amp into 220v worked for seconds then stopped!. The question is, is it totally broke or it may be the fuses? so i want to know, and if somehow it was the fuses how can i replace them even if i had to go to some electronics shop, but i wonder if they have replacements for fuses or what ever... thats all thank you and sorry for my english!
AMP: Marshell MG10CF

[Chuck H]

i live in a place where its mostly 220v

Mostly, or all? Do you have a proper outlet to plug it into? And how did you stick a 120V plug into a 220V outlet? That forcing you did? Yeah, that should have been your first clue that you're not supposed to do that. Oh, that is a 120V amp, not 110V. Other than that...

To get to the fuse you need to take off the back panel of the amp. There's an "in line" fuse holder hanging on a wire. The values and ratings will be stamped on the fuse. Do unplug the amp before messing with the fuse.



And FYI... That's an inexpensive practice amp. Which means it's probably a DNR (do not repair) item. DNR products are not considered worth repairing by the manufacturer and are usually just replaced in warranty situations. Which your situation isn't. Hopefully replacing the fuse will fix it.

[ultrareflex]

Mostly, or all? Do you have a proper outlet to plug it into? And how did you stick a 120V plug into a 220V outlet? Oh, that is a 120V amp, not 110V. Other than that...

To get to the fuse you need to take off the back panel of the amp. There's an "in line" fuse holder hanging on a wire. The values and ratings will be stamped on the fuse. Do unplug the amp before messing with the fuse.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]40306[/ATTACH]

And FYI... That's an inexpensive practice amp. Which means it's probably a DNR (do not repair) item. DNR products are not considered worth repairing by the manufacturer and are usually just replaced in warranty situations. Which your situation isn't. Hopefully replacing the fuse will fix it.

well im new so thats why i bought that one, i moved to a new home and its 220v everywhere, but i may use the power converter or something but only if i fixed it, anyway thank you for the help i appreciate it

[Jazz P Bass]

A 110Vac unit plugged into 220Vac would have DOUBLED all of the voltages inside the amplifier.

The zener diodes on the opamp power supply would have most probably survived.

The TDA2030 output IC & the 50volt power supply capacitors were 'challenged' to say the least.

Try a new fuse.

MG10CD Power Supply.pdf

[bob p]

Chuck, this voltage problem is more common than you might think.

People who travel from the USA to Europe, for example, travel with pin-pin adapters to allow them to plug a USA-style (NEMA 1-15 ungrounded) plug into a CEE 7/x outlet. These pin-pin "travel adapters" only perform a pin-pin conversion, they don't perform a voltage conversion. Appliance destruction can result if the user relies upon a pin converter without using a voltage transformer, or flipping the power supply voltage switch on the UUT.

This kind of damage is a lot more common that you might think when USA-spec goods are shipped out of North America, because the rest of the world doesn't run on 110VAC and many people never consider the problem.

Regarding what's wrong with the OP's amp -- Jazz makes a good point. But I doubt that swapping a fuse alone will solve his problem. He suffered an overvoltage condition, not an overcurrent condition. I'm thinking that the fuse wouldn't fail from the overvoltage condition, and that the fuse would only fail after the caps and diodes failed, resulting in a short and overcurrent that would pop the fuse. I'm thinking that the fuse would be a necessary element of the repair, but that it wouldn't be sufficient on it's own.

[ultrareflex]

so what you suggest, OK replacing the fuse is first thing what else? for sure if i get it fixed i would use voltage transformer...

[Chuck H]

Well then the pin-pin adaptor could represent the "forcing" I mentioned. To the OP's credit (?) he didn't say that this was done accidentally, just impatiently. I guess I've been doing this stuff long enough that I can't identify with NOT knowing you need to adapt for voltage rather than just plug pins.

No harm in trying a new fuse. The OP didn't report any smoke or funny smells. Which doesn't mean that didn't happen. Just that it wasn't reported. I'm afraid I agree with your assessment of the operating conditions WRT the fuse action. After all, the fuse is there to prevent a fire and not to protect the amp.

[Chuck H]

so what you suggest, OK replacing the fuse is first thing what else? for sure if i get it fixed i would use voltage transformer...

If there's more than the fuse to deal with there will be diagnosis and troubleshooting of electronics involved. You will need a DMM at least. The board might be SMD, hard to tell. That may not be easy to work on with a soldering iron.

[Tom Phillips]

At double the line voltage the PT would saturate and draw more current. That may blow the fuse before there is other damage.
The schematic that Jazz posted does not even show a fuse. (?)
Jazz - Would you post the complete schematic?

[ultrareflex]

Ok guys i really thank you for sharing your thoughts what i want to do atm is trying to replace the fuse so what type of fuse is should be looking?

[bob p]

The fuse specifications are right there on the amp, and they're stamped into the fuse. Read them.
If you don't know how to replace a fuse, I'm guessing that you're going to need to take the amp to a service technician.
Your only other option is to buy a spray can of Fix-It.

[ultrareflex]

The fuse specifications are right there on the amp, and they're stamped into the fuse. Read them.
If you don't know how to replace a fuse, I'm guessing that you're going to need to take the amp to a service technician.
Your only other option is to buy a spray can of Fix-It.

i will take it to a technician, well what do you think of 200mA?

[J M Fahey]

Itīs not what WE think but what Marshall does

As Bobp says: read the labels

For one example, Brazil has randomly dual voltage depending on region ... or should I say *triple*?

Traditional 110 or 220 all over the place, often in the same city, where up to a certain street you have 110, across it starts 220V Country ... whith new lines being wired 220V triangle (not star) so phase to phase itīs 220, and phase to neutral itīs 127 .

That said, and sorry for this, that amp is toast.

Will need at least a new TDA2030 and probably new supply diodes.

MG10 is the smallest of the small practice amps in USA/UK/Europe but in some Countries it might be more than that, at least it carries the "Magic" Guitar God label.

I know kids who are quite proud of owning "a Marshaaaallllll !!!!!!!!" , "same brand as Jimi/Van Halen/Slash uses "
Funny it

Maybe even Zeners are blown although they could have survived.

Iīve seen these latest pseudo "carbon fiber" Marshall/MG models on shop windows, they even boast of it in the model designation (CF) , now I see those are cheesy chipboard cabinets wrapped in carbon fiber *texture* Tolex

Oh well, joys of Marketing

[g1]

i will take it to a technician, well what do you think of 200mA?

Is that what is written on the fuse that blew? The MG15 lists a 250mA fuse so 200mA is in the right range. The fuse value will be written on the old fuse somewhere.

[Jazz P Bass]

[QUOTE="Tom Phillips;431935]At double the line voltage the PT would saturate and draw more current. That may blow the fuse before there is other damage.
The schematic that Jazz posted does not even show a fuse. (?)"

Yeah, I noticed that!

No fuse is shown on the schematic, anywhere.
WTH.