Fender SPL-6000 / Fan operation

[rahmajik]

Ok, so one last question. I ordered a used fan and it didn't work at all Fan was very 'stiff' to spin by hand as compared to even the current fan. I tested the old fan using 110 volts and it spun right up to high speed no problem. These fans do NOT appear to have oil points. No rubber cap, has what seems to be a metal pressed on 'cap' that does not appear to be removable. (used fan I got made it look like someone had tried to pry up on the metal 'cap'....So the only issue with the current fan seems to be 'weakness' when it first gets the 50 volts. What I was considering doing was just go ahead and wire it up to 110 volts directly (bypassing the Thermal switch) so it always gets the 'juice' to get it spinning on startup (and we'd always know its on based on the sound at the higher speed). Thoughts? Hilarious that some of these electronics places have this same fan advertised for $150 and up, bwaaahhaaaa. I do find others that show up as reconditioned for $25. Thanks in advance.

[Enzo]

Look on the center hub of the fan housing, not the rotor itself, but the frame. Is there not a round label stuck on there? It would say the brand and model number plus a few ratings like 120vAC and 14 watts or whatever. Peel that round label sticker off and see if there isn't the end of a shaft. A drop of oil there.

SOme of them are stuck on in a small recessed area, but you should still be able to get under the edge of the label with a sharp pointed tool like an Xacto blade.

[rahmajik]

Sorry, there are no round stickers on the frame, only a rectangular sticker with the model #, part #, manufacturer, volts, etc. I removed it and there is nothing underneath it. The replacement fan looks exactly like it (same sticker, etc.). There is a small piece of metal on the side that protrudes out, but it has no holes, etc. and seems to be metal like the frame. I was looking at this youtube video when I was looking for the oil point on the rotor.....my mistake....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPyHBH3WwBM&t=12s. So I see nothing on the 'frame' that looks like it would be a place for oil.

[Enzo]

What needs to be exposed is the shaft of the fan. I have never seen a fan I couldn't get to, but I certainly have not seen all the fans.

[rahmajik]

See this pic, this is the metal piece i was referring to when I said it didn't have a 'cap' to take off to get to the shaft (like in some of the video's I watched)....this is the 'frame' side. I referred to this earlier as the 'metal pressed on cap'.....just doesn't seem like it can be removed and this pic from the replacement fan looks like someone tried to 'pry' it off, but couldn't without damaging it.

[Enzo]

Yes, prying that off would bend it up, so we would just leave it off.

If that is the dead fan, what is there to lose? Pry the thing off, and see what is there..


Fans come in standard sizes, some imperial like 4 inch or 4.5 inch. others are metric like 80mm, 100mm, etc. Once you find the basic size, then look at depth, some are deeper than others. And of course it is either a 120vAC or 24vDC or 12vDC etc. A supplier like Mouser should have all those sizes and more at your voltage.

[rahmajik]

Thanks Enzo, the dead fan is the one I bought off ebay so I want to get my money back so I don't want to pry it off. The original still works if I give it a spin so don't want to mess with that one either. Thanks, I'll check the sizes off the spec sheets and check Mouser for a replacement. Thanks for all your help.

Electrical Specifications
Rated Voltage: 115 VAC
AC Frequency: 60 Hz
Power Supply: 11.0 Watts
Line Current: 0.15 Amps
Locked Rotor Current 0.22 Amps
Nominal Speed: 3250 RPM
Mechanical Specifications
Dimensions: 3.15in x 1.65in
Weight 18.0 oz
Max Airflow @ 0 in H 2O 34.0 CFM
Max Pressure @ 0 CFM 0.149 in H2O
Noise 40.3 dBA

[rahmajik]

This one looks like the right size and all ratings except for RPM - 1500 (Original spec 3250)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...KfUYj4QOMYc%3d

This one is rated for 110 volts (Top one is rated for 115 volts) but shows 3100 RPM (Original spec 3250)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...30k1WTzlTtU%3d

Does the 110 volt spec matter?

[Enzo]

110v 120v, all the same deal. they are intended for USA mains supply.

The RPM is not the important factor, the CFM, cubic feet per minute, is how much air it moves.

[rahmajik]

The second one I listed is 35.3 CFM, so I think the Mouser option is a safe bet vs trying to find a used one again. Thanks again everyone for your help!!!

[g1]

That second one is listed as 100VAC, not 110.
I don't think it's meant to be connected directly to mains AC.
I think this is the 115V version:
https://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...XYPvOMZKrSA%3d

[rahmajik]

Thanks g1, I confirmed with Mouser!

[J M Fahey]

I guess the 100V version is that used in the FAKE Ampegs, which are actually designed for use in Japan and blow to pieces when subject to macho man US mains ... at least that is the SGM opinion