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Carvin MTS 3200 head, Reverb can replacement

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  • Carvin MTS 3200 head, Reverb can replacement

    Can anyone recommend a suitable replacement for the reverb can for the MTS 3200?
    I got this amp as a basket case and it was missing the reverb can.
    I was amazed that I was able to get it running in the condition it was in. It works and sounds great but am missing the reverb can. I believe it is a high impedance can and Carvin Audio does not support their customers anymore, so they are no help (not to confuse that with Kiesler guitars which is still awesome)!
    Anyway the reverb circuit is working but low output with the cans I have lying around.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Kevin

  • #2
    Here's the schematic.

    https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/the...-Schematic.pdf

    It's a typical tube driven reverb. It's a matter of preference as to what reverb sound you like (short, long, etc.). They drew a 3 spring tank on the schematic and it looks like the Carvin part number is 70-00927, although I couldn't find that number to be useful doing a web search for a possible replacement. I think maybe the 9GB2C1B is what they used (built for Carvin), but not 100% sure.
    "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man."

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    • #3
      What reverbs do you have around?

      Got a schematic to post? We can't look at the circuit to determine what it needs without one.

      make sure it is plugged in right. Unplug the reverb cables, and turn the amp on with reverb up. Now touch the tip of each cable plug. The one that hums goes into the OUTPUT jack on the pan. If the hum is not loud, then maybe that is the problem rather than the pan itself.

      I think you need the highest impedance pan type. SO preferably a 4FB2C1B. But chances are if you have a 4EB2C1B, it might work.

      If you have Fender type pans - 4AB2C1B, they won't work. Not well.
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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      • #4
        Ah, thanks. Tube driven yes, but from the plate like some Ampeg amps of old.

        If you prefer a three spring, change the 4 to a 9. 9FB2C1B.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          Oh wow. Just did a little more digging. Here are the specs of what I think is the original tank.

          https://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/9gb2c1b-tad-reverb-can-3x2-springs

          It's going to be hard to find a tank with an input impedance that high and TAD is not in the U.S.
          "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man."

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          • #6
            The mod tanks are cheap. I'd try the 9FB2C1B that Enzo mentioned. If required tweak the circuit. There are plenty of tube driven (cap coupled) reverb circuits using these type tanks. Ampeg and Traynor for starters.
            "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

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            • #7
              Thanks guys,
              So as I found a doc with the meaning of the code numbers so that help quite a bit to understand this.
              A couple of more questions:
              The schematic shows both sides grounded so wouldn't I need a 9FB3A1A? The last A is because it is a head that is mounted in the bottom of the cabinet, so the tank mounts on the top with the opening facing up.
              How important is the physical orientation of the can?
              I did try a couple of tanks I have lying around and (4EB2C1B and one that is a 3 spring unti), they sound fine with the reverb level on full but I should have gotten that much reverb with it set to 1/3 or 1/2. I prefer the sound of the 3 springs much more.

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              • #8
                Don't worry too much about how it mounts. That is merely a matter of which of the tiny holes the four small springs are hooked into. Newer pans I see now have the jacks on small bits of pc board and you can either ground or isolate the jack by a small solder jumper. If both your cables are grounded at the amp end, then it doesn't matter.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  Thanks Enzo,
                  I am going to order a 9FB2A1C from Antique Electronics, that's the closest available in the states.

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