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About the heater circuit of Marshall DSL100HR

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  • About the heater circuit of Marshall DSL100HR

    HI,Bro. Now, the heater voltage of Marshall DSL100HR is 7.3, which is a high voltage value. I have changed the resistor to lower the voltage but it does not change at all. I am changing the resistors R1 and R2, probably thinking that the circuit shown below is the heater circuit. Please tell me if this circuit is the heater circuit. Also, if this circuit is a heater circuit, please tell me where to change the resistors to lower the voltage.
    Last edited by Mackerel; 10-24-2023, 12:54 AM.

  • #2
    R1 and R2 are for an artificial center tap. I wouldn't change those. Lowering those resistor values enough to lower heater voltage will draw extra current on the heater windings of the transformer and damage it. Is your mains voltage high?
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      No, It’s 100V

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      • #4
        Is that measurement (7.3V) with all tubes installed? I ask because I've not seen a DSL with this problem.
        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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        • #5
          Yeah, installed all tubes

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          • #6
            Are the DC supply voltages also too high? (power tubes should have about 450V at pin3)
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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            • #7
              Yeah As I recall, it was outputting about 450V.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mackerel View Post
                No, It’s 100V
                Do you have an Export transformer for Japan rated for 100v, since that is what your power grid is? If you have a 120v model transformer your voltages will be skewed.
                nosaj
                soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

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                • #9
                  It's originally made for Japan, so there's no need to use a transformer to transform it.

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                  • #10
                    If it had a 120V setting, that would help.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                    • #11
                      If it were a 120V transformer running on 100V, filament voltage would be lower, not higher. It would be nice if there were a 120V switch or primary winding. That would probably solve the problem. You could interrupt CN10 and/or CN11 and add series resistors (about .22 ohm/5W on each side or .41 on one side), but I don't think I'd do it. It's going to add a lot of heat inside the chassis. Probably best to just let it be. It may slightly shorten tube life, but not substantially, IMO.

                      Edit: g1 snuck in while I was typing.
                      Last edited by The Dude; 10-24-2023, 03:19 AM.
                      "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by g1 View Post
                        If it had a 120V setting, that would help.
                        Sorry I don't have a transformer. <(_ _)>

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                        • #13
                          Does it have EL34 or 6L6?

                          Full service manual here: https://music-electronics-forum.com/...etch?id=976230
                          Originally posted by Enzo
                          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                            If it were a 120V transformer running on 100V, filament voltage would be lower, not higher. It would be nice if there were a 120V switch or primary winding. That would probably solve the problem. You could interrupt CN10 and/or CN11 and add series resistors (about .22 ohm/5W on each side or .41 on one side), but I don't think I'd do it. It's going to add a lot of heat inside the chassis. Probably best to just let it be. It may slightly shorten tube life, but not substantially, IMO.

                            Edit: g1 snuck in while I was typing.
                            I see. How do I fix it completely?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by g1 View Post
                              Does it have EL34 or 6L6?

                              Full service manual here: https://music-electronics-forum.com/...etch?id=976230
                              Yeah, it have EL34

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