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Conversion Filmosound 179

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  • Conversion Filmosound 179

    I did a conversion of a Filmosound 179, this is my third foray into trying to stuff 10lbs into a 5lb bag. I honestly thing I have issues now.
    This amp originally had a 6J7, 6SL7, and 6V6's plus a third 6V6 and photo tube for the sound pickup.

    Three years ago, I plugged in, and it sounded horrid, filter caps were bad, very noisy, squeaky. But what did I expect from a 1947ish amp.

    I gutted it and decided to build something with a 18watt feel, but a pentode as I was able to get a couple of 6SJ7, two new old stock RCA, and one used Rogers and it already had some clean 6V6s and a 6SL7.
    I found a modified 18watt schematic that still used a 12AX7 in V2, and after a bunch of reading it seems a 6SL7 should work using the same values, just lower gain.

    I built it up point to point with a couple of tag strips to make it as simple as possible. I then did a startup with a 100W lamp, no tubes, no shorts, checked voltages and played with some dropping resistors in the power supply and I have what I think are reasonably correct voltages based on what I saw in the schematic that supposedly worked.

    I put the tubes in, again checking voltages and adjusting plate resistors, subbing a couple of voltage dividers and then plugged in.

    I have sound, but it has very low output. It's bedroom volume when cranked, and has to my ears a decent amount of what I think is just pre-amp gain. It sounds like it has a master volume set to just under 1. (it has no master volume)

    I've gone through it, from the input all the way to the output several times. Checked the soldering. I've metered out the transformers, checked the voltage on each winding of the power transformer, and voltages at the nodes, and tube pins and things seem right to the best of my ability to read what has been done with an EF86, what seems to be going on in a Gibson G20 for comparison.

    My Node voltages are A 388 B 350, C 322, D 308.
    I've attached my drawing as it sits, with voltages.

    Any help pointing me where I should start, or what to look for would appreciated as to where I should start, or what could be the issue with the gain / math / voltage. As I'm subbing in old octal tubes into an amp that was designed originally for 12Ax7 in both the pre amp and phase inverter.


  • #2
    What is the cathode voltage of the output tubes?

    Do you have a scope?
    - Own Opinions Only -

    Comment


    • #3
      Cathode voltage is 23.8.

      I don't have a scope, just my Fluke 117.

      Is a handheld scope just a toy, or can they be trusted?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Leif H View Post
        Cathode voltage is 23.8.
        If that's a 250R cathode resistor (hard to read), plate dissipation is too high at around 17W or 121%.
        You should use a somewhat higher value cathode resistor.
        But that's not the reason for low output.

        How did you test the OT?
        - Own Opinions Only -

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

          If that's a 250R cathode resistor (hard to read), plate dissipation is too high at around 17W or 121%.
          You should use a somewhat higher value cathode resistor.
          But that's not the reason for low output.

          How did you test the OT?
          It is a 250 ohm, that is what was in it originally.

          I used my meter to test the OT, rang the leads out, confirmed each half of the windings were equal on the input side to the center tap, and also relatively equal on the output sides ground to 8ohm and 8Ohm to 16ohm. Neither were shorted to ground.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Leif H View Post

            It is a 250 ohm, that is what was in it originally.
            Original B+ most likely was lower.
            You should lower idle currents to around 35mA per tube by using a larger cathode resistor.


            I used my meter to test the OT, rang the leads out, confirmed each half of the windings were equal on the input side to the center tap, and also relatively equal on the output sides ground to 8ohm and 8Ohm to 16ohm. Neither were shorted to ground.
            Shorted turns often do not show with DCR measurements.
            I recommend to do the neon test:
            neontest-1.pdf
            - Own Opinions Only -

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

              Original B+ most likely was lower.
              You should lower idle currents to around 35mA per tube by using a larger cathode resistor.




              Shorted turns often do not show with DCR measurements.
              I recommend to do the neon test:
              [ATTACH]n1005855[/ATTACH]
              Noted, yes the B+ was lower. I have a 300R

              I'll have to get my hands on a neon to test it. I do have another OT I can try, I'll have to dig that out of storage.

              Thanks, hopefully, this points to the problem.

              L

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

                Original B+ most likely was lower.
                You should lower idle currents to around 35mA per tube by using a larger cathode resistor.




                Shorted turns often do not show with DCR measurements.
                I recommend to do the neon test:
                [ATTACH]n1005855[/ATTACH]
                Wait, I do have a megger with a 125V setting.

                Some days I forget I'm a bloody electrician.

                Comment

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