I'm digging the Hammond chassis's but they only make them 17'' long. Anyone got a link to some good aluminum or steel chassis's in the 20'' range?
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I don't know of any manufactured chassis over 17". There are a couple of guys around that make custom chassis for reasonable prices. Ron Work is one of them. I had good results. It was 3 times the cost of a Hammond unit. But the aluminum was over twice the guage thickness and I had him do some chassis punching. Also, these were angle front chassis like a BF Fender which is trickier for only two custom chassis. All joints were welded and ground. Very "uptown" product for the $$$. His email is:
rkwork@tisd.net
The only other suggestion I have would be to use two chassis side by side. One for the power supply and another for the amp. You could still use one faceplate but the chassis mount screws might still be clumbsy looking.
Chuck"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by clyde1 View PostI just took delivery of my angle front chassis today, 21" x 7 1/2", punched for controls, pilot, strain relief, etc. and 4 noval sockets. I'll post pics as soon as I'm able, home renos out of control at present. interested?
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StratTone, Please check the "Angle Front Chassis" thread for some pics. Chassis front has: 2 input holes, 7 control holes, 1 indicator light hole.
Chassis rear has: 3 holes for 2 switches, 1 fuse holder, 5 holes for speaker jacks (2x4 ohm, 2x8 ohm, 1x16 ohm), 2 holes for footswitches or whatever,
1 hole for 16-18 strain relief plug.
Chassis bottom has: 4 holes for noval sockets, 4 holes for mounting screws.
Front faceplate will have 5, 6 or 7 control holes.
Rear faceplate same as chassis rear.
I will be getting silk-screen estimates tomorrow for the front and rear faceplates. They will be available in either stainless or black powder-coat.
Control layout will be your preference, a one-time silk-screen layout charge if it's something that I won't be getting made up in quantity. Hope this helps.
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"noval" is the nine-pin miniature pin-out, common to 12A_7 and other tubes.
http://www3.telus.net/bgill1/IMG_3017.JPG
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Oh, thanks. That kind of threw me. When I was in college (I was a chemistry major) I had to learn the alkane hydrocarbons and isomer progressions and the naming progression, based on the number of carbon atoms in the molecule (for the alkanes), went (not starting at beginning): hexane (6), heptane (7), octane (8), nonane (9) then decane (10). Using the Latin base for nine, "nona".
In Latin "nova" means "new" (I think). That's what threw me. Octal I got easily. But noval just didn't click. I kept trying to think of what "new" could mean in terms of tubes or even of holes.
Does anyone know the origin of the noval term? I'm not saying it's wrong. I'm just curious what its origin is. And, yes, I'm weird. I'm always interested in trivia
I googled for "noval" last night and only found it referring to someone's family name and Quinto do Noval Port at first. I did finally find it at HiFiTubes when referring to tube sockets just a few minutes ago when I Googled for noval and tube.
Oh and one other question about the chassis. Why create just the nine-pin sized holes? What about the larger octal socket sized holes?
Actually, come to think of it, had noval and octal been used together, I might have twigged to it. That's just a "might" mind you...
Thanks!
Bruce
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Hi Bruce,
The reason for only the 4 9-pin holes is that these chassis are generic and my thoughts were that most builds would need 3 or 4 noval sockets but the outputs might vary, 2 octals, 4 octals, 2 novals, 4 novals and I leave it up to the builder to drill his own holes for same.
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