Hi, I'm new to the Forum and am in the process of putting together my first amp, a Mojotone 5F1 and I would like to have a name tag on it with my name when I complete it similar to a Fender tag that comes on their Amps. Any place that you may use to get a metal tag that is custom.
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Maybe I was not clear.
What I mean by different technologies is that nameplates can be Zinc Cast (Fender 60's to present day), plastic injected (Marshall), Plastic engraved/milled (Hiwatt), silk screened , (Photo) chemical etched/anodized (Blackface panels), cut from flat sheet metal (real old Fender) , or Laser Engraved.
Some of these can't be one-offs, (the first two), others have differing degrees of difficulty.
I personally silk-screen mine, but as you want only one or two, Laser gives excellent results.
Google "laser engraved panels"
You can also use a cutting-plotter made one.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Hi Steve, sorry to bring bad news, but that font is called (Engraver's) Old English
Didn't you have something a little more .... Scottish?
Or Celtic at least?
Now on to the serious part: I think we deserve a few other pictures of your gorgeous amp, or at least the front panel.
Congratulations.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Pic attached! Sorry, but the old English Gothic script just looks more metal than anything Celtic. It's actually a "Fraktur"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraktur_%28script%29
I've written up some information about the amp too.
scopeblog Ninja Deluxe
The only downside with Weber's laser engraving is that he has a minimum order. I ended up with 8 nameplates, and only 2 amps to put them on. I put one on my front door, so I just need to make another five amps."Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
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Beautiful.
The old T'nB is unrecognizable-
Is its chassis aluminum? It looks too "unrusty" for an iron one that age, even if zinc plated.
Can you explain something about your sidelighted acrylic panel?
Thanks and congratulations.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Thanks JM!
The T'n'B's original chassis was steel with a greenish-yellow transparent coating. I believe this is called yellow chromate, and it was usually used on top of zinc or cadmium plating. It's a very effective way of rustproofing. I added a brass faceplate when I removed the old front panel, and when I rebuilt the amp, I made the new chassis out of 3mm aluminium plate.
As for the panel, I used Autosketch to make a DXF file of it, and gave it to a friend at the university rapid prototyping shop. It was then cut and engraved into 3mm clear acrylic using a CO2 laser. To make sure the holes lined up, I used the same DXF to print a paper template for drilling the front panel.
Anyway here's a link to Weber's nameplate service Weber Design
Going to have to go back and add the attachments"Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
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Pretty impressive or impressively pretty, take your pick.
Someday all amps will/should look like this.
Yellow chromate is the best.
I use blue chromate on my speaker frames because "that's what Celestion uses" and my clients much prefer that , but yellow/greenish is best.
Are those Leds side-firing?
Big doubt: how do you manage to mount your pot nuts, considering the 3mm aluminum + 3mm acrylic?
Or is it 3mm acrylic plus original <1mm ?
You should post some MP3.
The biggest doubt of all: what does the "lady of the house" say about all those little pieces of wire strewn on the floor?
Don't bother to answer that one, I guess the answer is universal.
I guess that gaffer tape holding a cap across the rectifier bridge is the "secret mod", isn't it?
Of course it must come from that roll of tape sold at Sotheby's by Jimi Hendrix's ex stage assistant, for a meager $10000, guaranteed to having been used at the Isle of Wight festival in 1970.Juan Manuel Fahey
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