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Miniphant - A simple, footswitch-controllable, 30W amplifier

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  • Miniphant - A simple, footswitch-controllable, 30W amplifier

    I'm new to Ampage, and as such I thought I'd start off by presenting a bit about my latest amp project, the Miniphant. Miniphant was assembled in January and since then has somewhere in the range of 150 hours of use on it, used in practice sessions with a live drummer and onstage miked through a PA. There has been one major maintenance overhaul since then, in which a defective potentiometer was replaced and the speaker was swapped. But mostly, it's been a reliable companion and definitely worth building.

    It was tempting to post this in the 'conversions' section but it's really not a conversion because it's a from-scratch circuit and design. It is built in the chassis of a scruffy 1970s solid-state amp that I bought in barely-working order as junk. The old thing might have been a Univox but was missing a logo, it was hard to sell. As a solid-state chassis, it had no punch holes, so I was free to punch them for the tubes wherever I wanted. The iron came from a 1960s console stereo chassis, which originally ran 2 EL84 tubes and one 12AX7 per channel. Some of the power resistors came from an old rear-projection TV that the neighbors discarded and the local children smashed into tiny pieces, making it easy for me to pick up whatever components looked handy. Not so much a conversion as a junkpile project, designed around parts that I had and wanted to put into something. Caps, though, are all brand new because I'm not that cheap or into watching smoke pour out of things!

    I've drawn a schematic of the circuit here:
    http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/9532/miniphant.png

    The output stage might appear strange to some. As I mentioned, the power and output transformers are for a stereo amp with 2 EL84s per channel. So why am I using EL34 output tubes? Mostly because it's cheaper to buy 2 EL34s then it is to buy 4 EL84s, just slightly. Also because I've built EL84 amps before and had to deal with the darn tubes going microphonic or arcing out on me. EL34s are bigger and possibly tougher. Electrically, there's a huge safety factor on B+ voltage, 310 V is hot on an EL84 but it's nothing to an EL34! I went with the EL34BSTR because it's a big, heavy looking tube and is reputed to be ruggedly built, not at all microphonic, and so far it seems to live up to that. While 2 EL34s can make 50W, mine only make about 30W. They're limited by the power supply voltage, about 310V, and by the load impedance of the output transformers.

    The output transformer wiring may also look a bit weird - I've parallelled the primaries of the stereo OPTs and put the secondaries in series. This splits the power evenly between both, and also changes the impedance ratio. Originally the transformers had a 50:1 ratio, likely indicating a 8k plate-to-plate load for 2 EL84s, matching a 3.2-4 ohm speaker. They now produce a 25:1 voltage ratio wired this way, giving a 5k plate-to-plate load for a 8 ohm speaker. This is a bit high for 2 EL34s, but then again, maxing them out for power isn't possible with this power supply anyway.

    As the impedance load is just a bit high, a load line may cut below the pentode 'knee' and cause some heavy screen current during high-volume playing. To avoid screen current spikes, I nailed the suppressor grids to the bias supply instead of ground, just to keep things down a little there. So far, the tubes haven't complained.

    The preamp is also a bit strange. It's pretty much a copy of the 'cascaded' Marshall JCM800 preamp, but has a couple tweaks to it. The first tube is wired with a footswitchable feedback loop which keeps the gain low and the frequency response flat - upon using the footswitch to ground the junction of the 33K resistor and the 0.44 uF capacitor, the gain is strongly boosted due to the loss of the negative feedback, and there is a further gain-boost with a brightness boost due to the 0.44 uF capacitor now working as a cathode bypass - so the footswitch provides both a gain and a voicing adjustment.

    There are also two volume controls, a standard master volume control ("LEVEL") and a post-PI master volume ("VOLUME"). This is to allow the use of the second footswitch button - as most footswitches have 2 buttons, I wanted to use them both - the master volume pot may be lifted from ground by the footswitch, giving an adjustable loudness boost. This isn't a pure loudness boost, because PI clipping is a major factor if you turn the MV up, and it's a great way to get a bit of extra gain without adding preamp stages, PPMV is good like that, but it's a good bit of extra footswitchable adjustment.

    The power supply is a voltage doubler - that seems weird - it's what this transformer was designed for, apparently, that's how the console stereo used it. I do wonder if it is actually a B+ transformer at all, or if it's simply a dual-primary 6.3 VAC filament transformer originally designed for 120/240 V operation! I'm sure that, if I could find such a transformer on the cheap, and made sure it had sufficient VA to handle the B+ load as well as the filament current, it would work pretty well in this circuit. The bias supply is a complete hack, lacking a separate bias winding it's the best I could do, problem with that big dropping resistor is that it takes a few seconds to bring up the bias voltage and as a result there is a bit of a B+ current surge when it turns on. Can't use a fast-blow fuse in the B+ in this amp. So far, the tubes haven't complained, at least.

    I think this may actually be a good design! It's the sad sort of thing that you just can't buy anywhere. Not fancy enough to be made into a 'boutique' amp product. Too classic-rock sounding for any company to make. If I had magic parts access and could make this thing and sell it for $350 or so I bet it would sell, but I don't know where the Chinese get their parts from so I can't. There may only ever be one Miniphant. It isn't the awesomest amp in the world, but it doesn't suck. It's a Chevy sort of amplifier. Sounds like an old Marshall, sort of. Nice sound, cuts through a mix really well. Not a high-gain buzzsaw amp. But that's what Heavy Metal pedals are for! Just a plain, regular amp here.

    Haven't done a photo shoot, and this poor amp spends most of it's time in the band trailer now, but if you look to the left of this photo you'll see me (wearing the hat) and Miniphant just to my right, behind me.



    Here's me playing with my band, I'm using Miniphant no pedals or anything, just plain amp tone, the other guitarist is a bit hard to hear here because the cameraman was on my side, but that's fine, you can hear the Miniphant:

    YouTube - NO MEANS YES

    Perhaps someday I'll get some good photos up-close of the amp itself. Until then, well, curious what people think! I did post about Miniphant on alt.guitar.amps but wow that place is full of noise. I'm curious what Ampage is like.

  • #2
    Amp sounds great. Can't look at the schem 'cause the URL isn't working. If you like the amp, great. Everyone gets the notion that they could sell their design in the right circumstances... Too much to say about that, but, your frankenstein, salvage amp sounds nice. Loads better than what you can buy short of a boutique amp. Most of us here have amps like that (some of us have several). The trouble comes when someone likes one of your amps so much that they offer to buy it. You can't sell it for what it's worth in time and it is just a slip shod kinda stuck together thing, and maybe you really want to keep it. Ha ha, it gets even better when you start building custom amps for friends and family from scratch.

    Rock on

    Chuck

    P.S. You might want to squeeze down the post size a bit. Compare yours to others and consider if you would read a strangers post of this length... I almost didn't.
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
      Amp sounds great. Can't look at the schem 'cause the URL isn't working. If you like the amp, great. Everyone gets the notion that they could sell their design in the right circumstances... Too much to say about that, but, your frankenstein, salvage amp sounds nice. Loads better than what you can buy short of a boutique amp. Most of us here have amps like that (some of us have several). The trouble comes when someone likes one of your amps so much that they offer to buy it. You can't sell it for what it's worth in time and it is just a slip shod kinda stuck together thing, and maybe you really want to keep it. Ha ha, it gets even better when you start building custom amps for friends and family from scratch.

      Rock on

      Chuck

      P.S. You might want to squeeze down the post size a bit. Compare yours to others and consider if you would read a strangers post of this length... I almost didn't.
      Sorry for the post length. Like I said, new. Considered going back and editing it for length but maybe I'll get to that later.

      Another attempt at a schematic:



      http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/9886/miniphant.gif

      One of my other amps does, in fact, receive much love from my drummer's friends but is not for sale. I wish they'd at least not leave the heaters on when they're done playing with it, but we can all dream.

      Comment


      • #4
        Really interesting. A couple of things I might do differently and a couple of things intrigue me. I do like the way it sounds.

        Honestly... Do you get more hum or buzz than you want? A couple of things look to me they could cause this. The location of your heater elevation and the left footswitch creates an early signal lead that is very long and floats in the higher gain mode. Otherwise I think the left footswitch is really clever. It adds a bright boost when the amp is cleaner, which is always good IMHO.

        And, I don't suppose you really need the 680k loads on the EL34 grids but they will keep the tubes from running away in the event of a pot failure.

        I've never seen the supressor grids (instead of the control grids) tied to the bias bias supply before. I think Traynor did it but tied both grids to the -V. It raises some interesting questions for me.

        Kudos

        Chuck
        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
          Really interesting. A couple of things I might do differently and a couple of things intrigue me. I do like the way it sounds.

          Honestly... Do you get more hum or buzz than you want? A couple of things look to me they could cause this. The location of your heater elevation and the left footswitch creates an early signal lead that is very long and floats in the higher gain mode. Otherwise I think the left footswitch is really clever. It adds a bright boost when the amp is cleaner, which is always good IMHO.

          And, I don't suppose you really need the 680k loads on the EL34 grids but they will keep the tubes from running away in the event of a pot failure.

          I've never seen the supressor grids (instead of the control grids) tied to the bias bias supply before. I think Traynor did it but tied both grids to the -V. It raises some interesting questions for me.

          Kudos

          Chuck
          Actually, the left footswitch circuit is completely quiet. It's running into the cathode circuit of V1a, which is a low impedance that grounds out noise rather than picking it up. The right footswitch circuit, which simply lifts the Level pot, does pick up a little noise but only when it's open and the Level is set fairly low. It'd be nice to do something similar for the right as for the left, but it'd take an extra tube.

          The 680K loads on the EL34 grids are, yes, safety resistors in case the pot goes intermittent. They actually live right there on the tube socket, which makes tying the bias supply to the suppressor grids quite convenient. I got the idea from the Tone Lizard who claims that a negative supply on the suppressors increases the 'efficiency' of the plate circuit - well, actually it lowers plate current for the same grid bias - it does maybe protect the screens a bit better than grounding them would. And it means I use less grid bias voltage, that's all. Does it limit my power output? I'm not sure. Not that it matters much to me.

          Comment


          • #6
            OOhh... I misread your schem. You do have the control and suppressor grids both on the bias supply. I was confused for a moment there. This is how my Traynor was wired. It had good OD too.

            Chuck

            P.S. Welcom to the forum.
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

            Comment


            • #7
              Some unusual ideas and it sounds good.
              Re -
              'The first tube is wired with a footswitchable feedback loop which keeps the gain low and the frequency response flat - upon using the footswitch to ground the junction of the 33K resistor and the 0.44 uF capacitor, the gain is strongly boosted due to the loss of the negative feedback, and there is a further gain-boost with a brightness boost due to the 0.44 uF capacitor now working as a cathode bypass - so the footswitch provides both a gain and a voicing adjustment.'

              Should the schematic show the 33k resistor coming from the other side of the 0.022uF cap on the 2nd stage plate? As shown, it would have the plate Vdc on it.
              Where have the 350k pots come from - gibson guitar types?
              I'd read that tone lizard thing about the supressor grids, but never got around to trying it out. Have you noticed any tone differences trying it grounded compared to referenced to the bias supply, he mentions it sounds 'colder'?
              My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by pdf64 View Post
                Some unusual ideas and it sounds good.
                Re -
                'The first tube is wired with a footswitchable feedback loop which keeps the gain low and the frequency response flat - upon using the footswitch to ground the junction of the 33K resistor and the 0.44 uF capacitor, the gain is strongly boosted due to the loss of the negative feedback, and there is a further gain-boost with a brightness boost due to the 0.44 uF capacitor now working as a cathode bypass - so the footswitch provides both a gain and a voicing adjustment.'

                Should the schematic show the 33k resistor coming from the other side of the 0.022uF cap on the 2nd stage plate? As shown, it would have the plate Vdc on it.
                You're correct, it does come from the other side of the cap. Not just to block HV DC, but also my thinking was that it would flatten out the freq response better. Now I worry how many other errors are in the schematic, but oh well.
                Where have the 350k pots come from - gibson guitar types?
                Yep, they're recycled. Miniphant originally was a junkpile solid state amp, appeared like a Univox but had no logo. Some sloppy off-PCB patching in there made me suspect it was a prototype of some sort that never hit production. Somewhere, a collector of rare shitty 1970s solid state amps that sound like shit is crying over my blasphemous gutting of it. But yeah, I pulled the pots off the board, wanted to keep them. Although used in a solid state design, I figured they probably were just learning how to do solid state and probably were still using up their older parts. The pots do look like your basic tube amp types, they're not miniatures. Their tolerance is actually kinda sloppy, there were 4 of them and they all measured random values falling between 300K and 400K. So I say 350K, it probably doesn't matter too much. And although they were used as PCB mount parts, they do make decent chassis-mount pots too. Miniphant was designed to use up parts on hand. I had a 100K stereo pot for the PPMV, bought a 1Meg for the MV and a 10K for the mids pot. Just using things up as well as I could.
                I'd read that tone lizard thing about the supressor grids, but never got around to trying it out. Have you noticed any tone differences trying it grounded compared to referenced to the bias supply, he mentions it sounds 'colder'?
                I didn't try it both ways with Miniphant. My main reason for doing it was that I wanted a bit less peak current then EL34s can normally achieve at the zero-bias line, and also I wanted to be able to conveniently mount 680K grid resistors on the EL34 sockets as safeties in case the PPMV went intermittent or open.

                Comment

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