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  • Help DIY 5E3!

    Hello. I have a problem and not know where to start.
    A friend and I have built a Tweed Deluxe and it seems that something is wrong. Up to 3 sounds amazing, clean and with amazing harmonics, but when it passes from this point that an overdrive / distortion rare, no music, which only affects the low notes, especially the chords on the sixth string. It's like a crackling/farting loudspeaker. At first it was thought this could not stand the low that makes the amp, but I've tried a Celestion Blue and a vintage 30 and remains the same. I used the method of Hoffman masses. The welds are all clean and shiny. I checked all the voltages across the circuit and everything is correct. I have a 360V B + I got Zeners adding a couple of 12v to the center tap of the PT.
    Resistors are NOS and some exceed its value between 10 and 15%).
    At the start we had an oversight and the power amplifier was or a couple of minutes without connecting the speaker, but I think it has damaged the OT, did not smell or smoke and output swichcraft connects the ground and positive if the jack is not connected, to prevent possible damage to it.
    The only thing I can think of is that a capacitor has failed, but not by which begin or how to check.
    I hope I can help.

  • #2
    Measure the dc resistance from each 6V6 pin 3 to the OT centre tap. If you have a low volatage AC signal source, unplug from the wall, remove the 6V6s & apply 0.5VAC to the speaker jack., What do you get from end to end of the OT primary? What do you get from each end of the OT primary to CT?

    Set the amp as per the power test for the "57 Deluxe", how do your dc & AC voltages compare?

    List all dc voltages.

    Post pics of the build.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hello MWJB.Thanks for your interest.
      Tomorrow publishes the list of voltages and photos.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hello MWJB.The dc resistance from each 6V6 pin 3 to the OT centre tap is 13v. I have no low voltage device to provide 0.5V to the speaker. Attached the layout used and the actual values ​​of the resistors and voltages measurements and some photos.
        Thank you.

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        • #5
          I was expecting a figure in ohms (amp powered off) from each 6V6 pin 3 to OT CT?

          Your neatness could be your downfall. You are running plate wires parallel & very close to grid wires, this is not a good idea. Dress the plate wires away from the grid wires (12A#7 pins 2 & 7, 6V6 pins 6 - where the 1500ohm resistors mount feeding pin 5). The plate wires can be long, but the grid wires should be short, by laying them so neatly you are using several additional inches of wire. Allow a little slack for any board warpage, but otherwise keep the wire runs short & direct. Many builders run the wire from the 68K inpout resistors from the front of the board, in a short arc over the tube socket. Do the same for the wires feeding 6V6 pin 6. Keep the wire to V2 pin 2 short.

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          • #6
            Sorry! The impedance is 305 ohm and 337 ohm. Tomorrow I will make shorter cables and separated.
            regards

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            • #7
              "Sorry! The impedance is 305 ohm and 337 ohm." Only ~10% mismatch in dc resistance, does not seem indicative of a primary short. Looks like good news on that front.

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              • #8
                I'm assuming your OT common lead is grounded internally?

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                • #9
                  I think I have the diagnosis ...

                  Blocking Distortion
                  New 5E3 Build, Odd Sound - My Les Paul Forums

                  I just need to find the culprit ..

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Whoa! Nosetocar...stop! Take a deep breath...step back from the precipice....

                    I didn't read the whole thread....I admit I ducked out when I saw the suggestion to fit 10K grid stoppers to 12A#7 tubes....

                    I have pointed out areas for you to look at with your build, a build that uses components of very similar values to amps that work FLAWLESSLY....amps that work flawlessly and sell for the best part of $2K....amps that work flawlessly, sell for the best part of $2K and do not have component values significantly different to your amp & do not have grid stoppers of tens of thousands of ohms on any tube grid.

                    I very strongly doubt...in fact I KNOW that you do not need to be changing values or adding components to make your amp "work". You have obviously taken a lot of care in your build...but you are in danger of applying a cure for a problem that does not exist. Note one of the early responses in the thread you link to says, "these amps are very semnsitive to lead dress" - that is one of the most valuable pieces of information that pertains to your issue.

                    Fender 5E3s were not built by highly qualified engineers, they were built by semi-skilled workers to a proven execution...thousands & thousands of them.

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                    • #11
                      Yes MWJB, I agree with you. I have no intention of changing the circuit. Today I've shortened the cables and separate the plate and signal. I resolder all joints. I have also removed the bridges that were in the ground of the input jacks, but the problem remains. No where to go .. Faulty capacitor? As I can check?
                      Greetings

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                      • #12
                        So, how are your filter caps grounded now? Main & screen should remain grounded to the PT bolt, preamp cap grounds to the input jack ground.

                        How does the amp sound with a 5V4, or a Russian 5Y3 fitted?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Now I have the input mass and HV center tap of the transformer to the screw. The cathode 6v6s, the first filter and the second in a chassis point. And the rest, the pots and jacks.
                          Today I will return as before: 6v6 cathode, first and second (each with a cable) to screw the transformer center tap with HV. The third filter and the two 220K resistors (also with a cable each) pots. And the two cathodes of the preamp to the jacks.

                          I have no 5V4, but I tried 5Y3 Softek and B + at 390V. Takes longer to appear. About 5 in volume when before it was in 3. The sound is cleaner, but also more aggressive.

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                          • #14
                            "Now I have the input mass and HV center tap of the transformer to the screw." Power amp grounds only to the PT screw, if by "input mass" you mean the input jacks then these ground via mechanical connection to the chassis.

                            Preamp filter cap grounds to the input jacks.

                            220Ks & 6V6 cathodes ground to PT bolt.

                            "I have no 5V4, but I tried 5Y3 Softek and B + at 390V. Takes longer to appear. About 5 in volume when before it was in 3. The sound is cleaner, but also more aggressive." Well this is promising, at some point your 5E3 is going to distort...what power is it making at the speaker just before this artefact appears? With the Sovtek 5Y3 you might consider a 300-330ohm 6V6 cathode resistor if you want to keep the Sovtek 5Y3 in there.

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                            • #15
                              Now I have the masses as you say. I can get a good sound to 3.5 or 4. After this point, we hear the farting.
                              I will buy orange drop capacitors and remove all sozo. I have the intuition that one of them is the culprit.

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