Fab a chassis lately?

[deci belle]

I got a metal brake and sourced some .050" 5052 aluminum to make a few chassis. Has anyone done this themselves? I'd love to know any tips before I go for it.

[Chuck H]

I've even done it without a metal brake. I used lumber fasioned into a sort of metal break. One thing I would advise (that I didn't do) is to add a right angle lip (maybe 3/8") to the edges of the open end for structural integrity.

[deci belle]

yes, Chuck! At first I was planning on that, but now I think I'll actually make end-panels with 90˚ lips and rivet them in. Too bad I don't have a TIG rig yet! Right now its just for a 5E_ for a gutted (Crate) combo cab I already have.

My brake only does 90˚ bends so I'll have to fake it with "wood technique" if I want to make one for my BF cab.

I heard .090" thrown around a lot, but when I measured my Showman chassis, it's only .050", so what the heck! I want this to be as easy as possible!!

Oh, and that lip really makes a difference (I didn't know what you meant at first about the 90˚ bend at the end).

Thanks, Chuck!

[Chuck H]

I had chassis made for a proto once that were .08. What a PITA to cut and drill without dies. Not as bad as steel, but I'm used to the .044 aluminum stuff that Hammond and Bud sell. .05 seems great to me. Other than structural integrity I don't know what advantage .09 would have. And when you consider that it's an aluminum box bolted fast on the open end and inside another box I don't think durability is an issue. In fact I'll happily keep using the prefab .044 stuff for protos.

[deci belle]

haha!! I recently ebayed two chassis punches. The punches for the octal and 9pin and 1/2" for the bigger holes— and a set of step-drills for the pot-bushings. I am already practiced at making square holes…

hmmm, I'll ask if I can get .044"— might cost less too!!

What's the way to cut it to shape— I mean which tool? I have a manual nibbler that I haven't used yet.

[Chuck H]

I don't build many amps. I do more mods, design layout and prototyping. I think I've probably made eight amps and maybe a dozen peripheral pieces of gear where I've made my own holes in the chassis. I build a lot of stuff in existing amp chassis that I modify. I'm working with stone knives and bones by any reasonable builders standards. Dremel, drill, small barrel drum sanders, step bits, reamers and files. Even with proper punches and dies I'd want these tools around. It come up quite often that I'll change something or something changes on me and I need to make, say, a 5/8 hole into an 11/16 hole. Not sure how a punch would work for that but I know I can expand it clean with a small barrel sander on my cordless.

[J M Fahey]

I´ve made around 10000 amps (on over 40 years), *always* on my own aluminum chassis.
Hate iron.
Started by renting machines at any available "tin shop" , using only round holes (only drills I could get ) plus a couple greenlee type punches.
Along the time bought punching machines, shears, folding brakes, different dies (round, square, rectangular, oval) and had some special ones made (slits for slider pots, IEC connectors, etc.)
I surface treat (phosphatize, blast, etc.) , paint and silkscreen my own chassis and front panels.
Now I have sheet aluminum custom made in "waste less" sizes.
Most efficient thickness is .05 to .06 ; easy to cut, bend and punch but still reasonably strong.
I rivet an extra rectangle where I bolt the power transistors, for better heat spreading.

[tubeswell]

I bend my own ally chassis- always with a flange on the open edge. I also put endcaps on. I used to bend them by hand on a bench (like Chuck) but got sick of that so I got a bar brake. Much neater that way

[J M Fahey]

Congratulations.
Nice and looks very strong.

[deci belle]

Yes, and the picture is great, tubeswell— thank you!!