Amp logo badges

[Randall]

I notice some very nice looking logo badges from builders. I wonder how these get made, especially from those who just make a few amps for themselves and friends? And may I ask for your honest opinion on the work in progress name for my amps? RPM. My initials.

[deci belle]

Maybe Watts Tube Audio can help. For a while they were listing fabrication services.

RPM lends itself to hot-rodding elements you might incorporate into the badge design.

[stormbringer]

I like your working name, and I think it'll be possible to create a nice logo (think THD).
Have a look around for local engraving shops. Print out a map with several shops marked, and start going door to door. Bring a sample badge that you like, but keep it simple. See what each shop can do and what they charge. You will save lots on shipping if you can do it locally. Plus, it's nice to support local business...

[Enzo]

Or try a company that does exactly that:
LaFrance Corp - Home

If you are in a city of any size, you probably have some promotions companies. OR they might call themselves advertising companies. The places that print your company name and logo on keyrings and pencils and calendars and lapel pins and so on. Things you hand out to customers or at trade shows. They might be able to help you with badging.

[Raybob]

I used this company in China. Scary at the time, the only way I could pay was with Western Union, so no real guarantee. Looks like they now have a way to click to pay. Sent them artwork, they did a good job. One time setup charge plus piece cost. Minimum order is 100 pieces.

[Mick Bailey]

I etch mine in brass and flood fill them with semi-translucent paint. Then lacquer over the top.

Here's a recent one for a 5E3 - in the pic it looks a little rough, but it's really nice in real life - good relief so it looks like a casting;

[Steve Conner]

Nice ... How do you etch the brass? I guess a process similar to DIY PCB etching?

Any thoughts on an etch that would work with aluminium? I once tried a dilute caustic soda solution, and the results were impressive, but not in a good way.

[Mick Bailey]

Yes, it's the same process as PCB etching, using 1 part hydrochloric acid and 2 parts 9% hydrogen peroxide.

I use the toner transfer method - laser printer onto glossy photo paper, then iron on to cleaned, degreased brass blank, which is cut marginally over-size then trimmed after etching to remove the rough edge. Stick a piece of duct tape on the back and etch in a shallow tray for 10 to 20 minutes, agitating continuously until the required depth is achieved. You can remove, rinse and inspect part way through.

Clean off the toner with acetone then fill the relief with the chosen paint. Solvent based glass paint works well. I put mine where its warm to fully harden. A toaster oven set to 100 degrees can be used to fully bake the finish after its dried. Once this is done I rub the surface back on a sheet of wet-or-dry (used wet) stuck down to a piece of MDF, then dry off and lacquer with clear acrylic.

The nice thing is that you can do them '8 up' all at once on one sheet of brass and seperate them before painting.

I haven't tried it yet, but I've seen electro-etched aluminium that works much better than chemical etching - a deep relief and no undercutting or nibbling.

[Steve Conner]

Thanks for the tip... I didn't know about electro-etching and a Google search turned up some interesting recipes and results. I like the rough finish it gives on aluminium.

[J M Fahey]

Loved it, very good looks.

The "rough" background is actually better than a shiny flat one, increases contrast and makes lettering easier to read under poor light (stage).

I had tried something similar using a perchloride bath but it was way too slow; the much more aggressive mix you used is interesting.

Thanks for posting.


EDIT: @ Steve Conner: I faintly seem to remember you had some anodized or laser etched badges made by ¿¿Ted Weber??? and they turned out quite good looking.
Or am I mistaken?

[Steve Conner]

Yes, I got them laser etched by Weber and they looked good, but they were very thin metal and the logo was flat. I prefer the 3D etched look.
http://scopeboy.com/scopeblog/wp-con...2/imgp1293.jpg

[Mick Bailey]

Here are some other ideas for nameplates;

Engraved using a home-made template in a pantograph engraver using three-ply phenolic (Traffolyte), and an example of Lazertran for a Rangemaster clone. I've also used Lazertran over a brushed aluminium base to give a 70s look to hi-fi amp builds, but it works very well for panels and amp badges - especially over a primed and painted surface.

[rjb]

... may I ask for your honest opinion on the work in progress name for my amps? RPM. My initials.

Too bad Randall is taken...

[eschertron]

Any thoughts on an etch that would work with aluminium? I once tried a dilute caustic soda solution, and the results were impressive, but not in a good way.

Funny you should mention that. I was directed to an article on prankster-made soda-bottle bombs just this week. All you were missing was a pressure vessel.

[Randall]

Too bad Randall is taken...

I know!