Starting first amp build. Suggestions on components please?!

[hesamadman]

My build is going to be based off of the Ceriatone layout of the JCM 800. Im going to do this in stages. First I would like to build the board. I was hoping to get some suggestions as to what types of components to use and not to use. I know certain resistors do better than others and certain caps do better than others. Would just like to see whats preferred.

[hesamadman]

also....the layout im looking at does not have wattage ratings on some resistors. Is there a standard?

[big_teee]

also....the layout im looking at does not have wattage ratings on some resistors. Is there a standard?

Which JCM800 ?
Triode Store has some nice layouts.
I built this one a few years ago.
http://site.triodestore.com/JCM8002204Stock.pdf
T

[hesamadman]

Which JCM800 ?
Triode Store has some nice layouts.
I built this one a few years ago.
http://site.triodestore.com/JCM8002204Stock.pdf
T

Im doing the 2204 but whats the differences in that and 2203?

[hesamadman]

Which JCM800 ?
Triode Store has some nice layouts.
I built this one a few years ago.
http://site.triodestore.com/JCM8002204Stock.pdf
T

Looks like the one im doing. Id love to hear more about your build. Would you be opposed to swapping email addresses?

[big_teee]

Im doing the 2204 but whats the differences in that and 2203?

The 2204 is the 50 Watt version with 2 EL34s, and the 2203 is the 100 Watt version with 4 EL34s.
Just post all your comments and questions here, and more of Us can help you.
Good Luck,
T

[hesamadman]

The 2204 is the 50 Watt version with 2 EL34s, and the 2203 is the 100 Watt version with 4 EL34s.
Just post all your comments and questions here, and more of Us can help you.
Good Luck,
T

I do appreciate it

[hesamadman]

Im going off of this layout.

http://site.triodestore.com/JCM8002204Stock.pdf

1st thing im going to do is assemble the board.
I have every part on this layout written down and categorized. My questions are:

1. These components are different colors. Some capacitors are blue some yellow. I know the PF valued ones are ceramic disk caps (I believe) but what are the yellow and blue? Are blues electrolytic? If so which side is negative and positive?

2. Why isnt the rectifier circuit on the same board as the rest of components? Can I assemble it there?

3. Any suggestions on types of caps and resistors? I have a wholesale account with parts express. Do they carry decent enough components?

4. Are turret lugs the recommended way to go or is perf board acceptable?

I sincerely thank you for your help. Im very excited for this build and would appreciate any advice.

[eschertron]

Are turret lugs the recommended way to go or is perf board acceptable?

Over the course of my hobby, I've used perf board a lot for low-voltage work, generally stuff that will go into a project box. I've started working with eyelet board for my first amp builds. It might be considered a "middle path" between perf and turrets, a little easier on the pocketbook than turret construction but it looks almost as nice.

Of course how nice it looks really depends on the soldering skills at play

... and a lot of amps are made with eyelet board. To start fabricating with eyelets, besides the board and the eyelets themselves, you'd need a 'staking' tool. Runs about 9 bucks US. Not too steep to try it and see. That's my recommendation.

[big_teee]

You may want to read through some of the different instruction booklets for building amps.
Even if the instructions are not exact for what you are building, you can get lots of info and ideas.
I like the TubeDepot instrucitons.
Classic British JTM45+ Tube Guitar Amp Kit - Head
Watch the video, and look at the instructions, and it will answer many of your questions.
By all means learn all the safety procedures, of dealing with high voltage.
We don't want Anyone to be a statistic!
High B+ Voltage can Kill You!
Your questions on the Caps polarity?
The way I determine polarity is to look at the rectifier diodes.
The 4 B+ diodes are passing + positive voltage.
The diode tied to the 2 blue Electrolytic Caps is passing - Negative voltage.
That is the negative bias circuit.
Also a Layout is just that, you need to use it in Conjunction with the Schematic.
http://mhuss.com/MyJCM/JCM800_2204.pdf
Good Luck, and be Safe!
T
**Edit note
You may want to build the TubeDepot version.
He calls it a JTM45+, but it in fact uses all the Hardware of a JCM800 with EL34s.
It is tuned more like the 1987 Super Lead Circuit.
It also has a tube rectifier with a switchable diode circuit, and it has a Master Volume.
Lots of goodies to play with, and It has a Circuit Board Template, and a very nice Schematic.
T

[J M Fahey]

Agree.
I also started (43 years ago) building on eyeletted boards.
No specific "guitar amp parts" suppliers way back then, and even less in Argentina, but I could easily buy any grade and size of brown phenolic board at industrial Electrical supply houses, because it's one "accepted" material to build custom Electrical panels, also get brass or nickel plated eyelets and the eyelet press machine, with a couple different size dies


Still going strong 43 years later.

RWIW I made **transistor** amps on eyelet boards, even ****OP AMP**** based preamps .

Yes, it's possible, I used metallic round octal LM741 so I could spread the legs to fit regular eyelets.


I also use it to make custom belts , rivet chassis parts, build custom heatsinks, add metallic pop snap buttons to luggage, custom made leather holsters, etc.

My Daughter uses it to decorate jeans, bags, etc.

The oldest tool I have which besides is still in constant use, amazing.

By the way, even on PCBs, I often add small 2 mm eyelets to points which may be resoldered time and again, or as the "poor man's through hole connector"

[Sleepthieves]

Recommendations from a recent noob

Ok I know this will not be what you want to hear but for a first build I cant recommend enough just buying someone's complete kit. Triode store has got their prices down to a really reasonable level. It is possible to save money by buying all your own parts but it can also be a real hassle and allows you to make mistakes that you wont even notice till your right in the middle of building. Having been in the same place as you about 3 years ago and buying all my own parts, then watching my friend Wittgenstein (also on this forum) get 5E3 kit from triode, the hassle difference was stunning. Now if you plan to build multiple other amp builds and really get into this hobby it can be much more worthwhile to buy your own parts as you will have extras resisters and wire among other things. Trust me it is just way too easy to order the wrong capacitor or resister when you are ordering like 40+ different parts at the same time. I still do it now and again and I triple check orders.

Upon looking at Triode's kit for the JCM800 again its not the best priced kit they sell for what you get but its not a complete rip off especially for a beginner. Especially since you have a lack of familiarity with the different parts inside an amp, no offense, I was there not that long ago.

If you want to do it yourself these are the parts I use regularly. Also this website is pretty good, if for nothing else than just a reference. Antique Electronic Supply

For NON-electrolytic capacitors - Mallory 150's ...orange drops are fine I just don't use em. You can save a bit of money using no name caps that look just like Mallory's but who knows who makes that stuff.

For Electrolytics - I used to use Sprague Atoms but they are super pricey (and super huge) and I just stopped believing the hype and started buying Illinois caps to save sometimes 50%.

For resisters - I never see a manufacturer name on resisters I'm not sure why. I used to use carbon composition which is the vintage part and a lot of people still use them. However after you have dug into the literature and this forum you discover they are probably more trouble then they are worth except in a couple spots in an amp where they might be preferred over other material resisters but that's still a deep argument. Carbon Film resisters are usually a bit cheaper and are more reliable then carbon comp. Metal film is also an option. When you need 2 watt resisters you will probably have to go metal oxide as it can be harder to find the other kinds in 2 watt. 5 watts and up are nearly always wire wound.

As for making a circuit board I bought some really good material called garolite from McMaster-Carr and it is pretty cheap and insanely strong. There are a bunch of kinds of it but I always used G10/FR4. It is both heat resistant and has very low if any water absorbing problems which can be an issue with other materials. Although I dont have any experience with others so can't say anything about perf board. Here is the link you just need to pick garolite in the side bar. Then G10/FR4 on the next page, its the only kind you can get in widths that turret boards are usually in and is roughly the cheapest. The most money efficent way is buy 3 in. wide boards 1/8 in. thick and 4 foot long. Its enough for 3 amps or so and its about 15$ with a few bucks shipping. Out of 2 sheets there was 1 princeton, 3 champs, 2 deluxes, and a reverb unit board built. But then you have to be willing to make or buy a eyelet or turret tool. This is an awesome pdf from tube depot talking about making turret boards..this is damn near exactly how I did it. Making your own turret pressing tool was too hard and you dont need a machine press to do them either like they show you can definitely use a hammer. I'll try to get a better PDF I used.

For wire - I highly recommend push back cloth covered wire. Its not the best but when you are a beginner solderer you will melt a lot of plastic coated wires even if it is pretty heat resistant whereas I'm not sure I ever started any cloth wire on fire ever or even burnt all the way through it. Triodestore sells it for a decent price and they have a bunch of colors but get it from whoever works for you and is a good price. It is completely worthwhile to have at least 5 colors of wire if not more. That way you can follow the color coding of Triode's diagram or Ceriatone I think colors theirs too. It is a nightmare to work with just 1 or 2 colors for a beginner and probably in general.

For 1/4" jacks - I dont care how many kits or people's amps you see using those shitty plastic enclosed jacks, I think they are cliff jacks. Just do yourself a favor and buy Switchcraft jacks they are really nice and last forever and are tight like a virgin. They can also be bent back into shape after years of promiscuity make them loose.

For switches - Carling makes nice ones. But it depends on what kind of switch you need.

For tube sockets - I cant remember who I used so some more experience builders who have built a few recent projects would be better to ask but there ins't a consensus as far as I know. From what I remember reading all the currently made ones are kinda shoddy.

For potentiometers - I see people use CTS most of the time. I have used Alpha and CTS and I see people use Bourns a lot as well.

In conclusion I still highly recommend buying a kit for your first time and then buying their chassis and their case. That way you know every part will go together. If you build it yourself you will have to constantly check and recheck as you get each piece and make sure the build schematic you use is the right size and layout that will fit your chassis and the right transformers to fit your chassis, then for everything to fit your head cab. You'd like to think that all the makers make them all to original spec and that everything is interchangeable but that would be too easy. If you do go kit, shop around, there are a bunch of people making them now and some are much better priced then others and have better parts. Good luck!

[Joe L]

As previously suggested, start with eyelets. They're cheap and work just fine. At some point, give turrents a try and see how you like them. Everyone develops a preference between the two at some point so you might as well try the cheapest.

A friend of mine is using the layout at Triode and it looks fine. Just make sure and look at pictures of similar amps as you go to see which way tube sockets are turned, wire routing etc. He had his power tube sockets turned around and the board was mounted out of position from the sockets making the wiring too long.

Another good instruction resource is http://www.metroamp.com/downloads/50...STRUCTIONS.pdf

Another trick I use is if you have too many leads to fit in the eyelet, bend a piece of solid wire, stick the two ends down in the eyelet leaving a loop on top in a shape like this - Ω. Stick your component leads in and tighten and solder the result. You can use almost the same method with turrents by just wrapping a few turns then looping over the top of the turrent then back down.

Good luck!

[Weez]

The triodestore prices for cloth wire are the best I've found. I don't know about the quality, but the stuff that came with my amp kit (Weber) was junk. Wouldn't push back well at all, and the "cloth" frayed and made my hands itch like crazy. Besides just looking like crap, the fraying made it difficult to see most of the connections. It was suggested that I apply clear nail polish to tame the fraying, but I can't be bothered with that cumbersome of a procedure. ..waiting for it to dry, etc. Would take way too long to make any sort of progress.

Triodestore's stuff might be better, but I won't use cloth again.

I ended up yanking almost all of it and replacing it with mil-spec ptfe from Steve at Apex Jr. Steve's a nice guy to deal with, and his prices are very good. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. Here's a link:

Apex Jr.Home Page

[big_teee]

I agree with Weez on the wire.
Especially with a Marshall Clone, go with HiTemp PVC or Teflon wire.
It looks great, is small and doesn't melt if you have to resolder several times.
Also for a Marshall clone build, I would go ahead and make a G10 Turret Board, with standoffs, not an eyelet board.
Then if you want to show your pics off on other Marshall Boards, you'll fit right in.
For a one off amp, it won't cost you that much more.
TubeDepot has a template to make a Flaring tool that fits your drill press.
That's what I did, and I recommend it!
T