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Vibroluxish build
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C17 looks ok. Your PI is missing a tail. Your NFB is being applied to the grid coupling node. You should have a resistor between the R11 and R10 junction and the NFB should enter the circuit at the node between the new resistor and R10. The new resistor should be something like 10k to 22k."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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I'm not sure I follow you... I try to 'decipher' this scheme: http://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/634...chem.pdf_1.png
I think it's very hard to see everything in this picture. Are you sure there's a resistor between R10 and R11?Last edited by überfuzz; 06-11-2014, 08:14 PM.In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Your PI is the same as the 6G11 with the exception of R10 and R21. R21 can be adjusted for taste, but R10 will affect the bias of the PI tube, so I think you will want to use the 1.5K stock value.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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There's still a resistor missing from the PI. There needs to be a PI "tail" and then the resistor following would be the shunt for the NFB circuit. Simply changing the NFB series resistor to 56k while retaining the circuit as it is drawn won't fix the problem. I shot typical values for the tail resistor. It looks like the 6G11 uses a 6.8k tail and then a 1.5k NFB shunt with a 56k NFB series resistor. The 56k series resistor and the 1.5k shunt form a divider with a specific ratio. If you veer from this without understanding what's happening (or with an incomplete circuit) you're just shooting in the dark. With the 100k resistor you have in the schematic you could simply use a 3.3k shunt resistor for a very similar ratio to the stock circuit. But it doesn't matter a lick if you don't add a tail to your PI."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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I'm not following you Chuck, his R11 (6K8) is in the same position as the 6800 shown as the tail for the 6G11 (shown in link from post #3). Are you looking at a different 6G11 schematic or am I missing something?
As I said earlier, altering the 1500 (to 4K7) will mess with the bias of the tube, so I think he should stick with the 1500. Otherwise the only difference I can see is the 56K is changed to 100K.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Ignore all my above posting. Somehow I managed to see the circuit posted incorrectly and made a mistake.
As per the NFB ratio... The 100k series resistor is fine. The larger shunt resistor will INCREASE the NFB ratio. Go with a 3.3k instead of the 4.7k on the bottom of the tail. That'll be similar to the original. Or, as suggested, go with the 56k and the 1.5k shunt like the original amp."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Here's a much cleaner schem for those that might have trouble reading the others floating about.
vibrolux_6g11 (layout, schematic).pdfStart simple...then go deep!
"EL84's are the bitches of guitar amp design." Chuck H
"How could they know back in 1980-whatever that there'd come a time when it was easier to find the wreck of the Titanic than find another SAD1024?" -Mark Hammer
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