First tube amp build: Fender Deluxe AB763 style amp (no reverb).

[Enzo]

A weak "filter cap" can cause instability due to it not performing its decoupling action. However, it may measure OK in terms of value. It needs to be tested for leakage and ESR at operating voltages. Your meter cannot do that.

Remember, all those wonderful old Fender amps we cherish were made with 20% tolerance resistors, and caps with tolerances like - honestly - -20%/+80%.

[mikepukmel]

A weak "filter cap" can cause instability due to it not performing its decoupling action. However, it may measure OK in terms of value. It needs to be tested for leakage and ESR at operating voltages. Your meter cannot do that.

Remember, all those wonderful old Fender amps we cherish were made with 20% tolerance resistors, and caps with tolerances like - honestly - -20%/+80%.

Thanks Enzo. yeah, after getting into this stuff just a little bit so far, I wonder how any of those amps worked out of the box. Fender just had 'Wanda' and 'Tony' back there twisting wire and soldering in components between cigarette breaks. No ESR, no $20,000 spectrum analyzers...

[Enzo]

That is the point, ALL of them worked. The component values just are not that critical. A few might have some issue, and the QC people could generally solve them quickly. They were aware of things like lead dress, so they knew to move grid wires, the assembly people knew where to route them in the first place.

[mikepukmel]

That is the point, ALL of them worked. The component values just are not that critical. A few might have some issue, and the QC people could generally solve them quickly. They were aware of things like lead dress, so they knew to move grid wires, the assembly people knew where to route them in the first place.

I gotta stop stressing over this stuff. I'll get it all wired up, triple check everything, get my trusty light bulb short indicator device setup, and plug it in!

[mikepukmel]

That is the point, ALL of them worked. The component values just are not that critical. A few might have some issue, and the QC people could generally solve them quickly. They were aware of things like lead dress, so they knew to move grid wires, the assembly people knew where to route them in the first place.

I gotta stop stressing over this stuff. I'll get it all wired up, triple check everything, get my trusty light bulb short indicator device setup, and plug it in!

[mikepukmel]

The cabinet from TRM Guitar Cabs arrived Friday. Was on the porch when I got home. Shipping didn't bang up the box. Just have time now to unbox and check the chassis fit. Fingers crossed! I'll post photos later.

[Chuck H]

I'm reminded of the 2009 winter NAMM show where I brought two prototype amps, chassis only, and met the cabinet maker there with the cabinets! We had only ever conferenced on the design via email and there I was at the NAMM show finding out if my chassis fit in the cabinets. They did

[mikepukmel]

Overall, nice cabinet. Very light weight (nice that there's no chip board). Shame to cover it up with tolex, but due to the beatings amps take, will probably go with standard black tolex at some point.

cab is from TRM Guitar cabs, in New Hampshire if anyone is interested.









In the last photo I just have the chassis wedeged in there and propped up for a fit test and photo.

[Leo_Gnardo]

Shame to cover it up with tolex, but due to the beatings amps take, will probably go with standard black tolex at some point.

Then why not opt for some maple stain & urethane varnish, score a good amp cover from Tuki or StudioSlips or D2R? With all the care you've put into just planning your build, I'm sure you'll be handling that amp like a crate of eggs. And you won't be lending it out to Wreck-it Ralph.

I'm likin' that upper back plate with the ol' fashioned "windows," sure hits my retro button.

[Chuck H]

Don't listen to Leo Pine doesn't take stain worth a $h!t. But you CAN put on an amber shellac or some Minwax PolyShades tinted polyurethane for a decent look. Follow either with another coat or two of clear polyurethane. If it looks cool you just leave it "woody" for awhile. You can always cover in black Tolex if it doesn't work out or after the wood finish starts to look un restorable.

[Leo_Gnardo]

Don't listen to Leo Pine doesn't take stain worth a $h!t. But you CAN put on an amber shellac or some Minwax PolyShades tinted polyurethane for a decent look. Follow either with another coat or two of clear polyurethane. If it looks cool you just leave it "woody" for awhile. You can always cover in black Tolex if it doesn't work out or after the wood finish starts to look un restorable.

OK, take it from the paint expert ^^^, no problem. In any case, show off your wood and it doesn't hurt to get a quality slip cover to protect it.

[mikepukmel]

Thanks for the tips. Well, knowing how well (or not well, rather) my previous attempts to stain and finish wood came out, Im betting I would have better luck at gluing on stuff, but that takes quite a lot of skill as well. I will not beat the amp, but just moving it from place to place in a car, stuff happens. And this pine is very soft.

Can't wait to get a soldering!

[Chuck H]

... and it doesn't hurt to get a quality slip cover to protect it.

Second that! I have a wood finish combo that I never slip covered and it does get beat up knocking around. In fact I was just thinking about touching it up and spraying a new finish coat on it this morning.

[nosaj]

Don't listen to Leo Pine doesn't take stain worth a $h!t. But you CAN put on an amber shellac or some Minwax PolyShades tinted polyurethane for a decent look. Follow either with another coat or two of clear polyurethane. If it looks cool you just leave it "woody" for awhile. You can always cover in black Tolex if it doesn't work out or after the wood finish starts to look un restorable.

We've used Sherwin Williams Black Walnut on pine boards for a ceiling looked damn good. Almost gives the pine sort of a burnt look to it, but I' guess you'd have to like it. But also seeing that we're on different ends of the country. Down here we use yellow pine slash or loblolly pine, which is different than the NWPacific pines.

nosaj

[Chuck H]

Yeah, that's a whole other thing. It's a "look". Also popular is to stain hard woods with black stain and then sand it off to uber accentuate the grain. Since pine tends to take stain more extreme in the soft grain and not much at all in the harder grain it could create a similar effect. Something I've done with pine that makes for a more aged look, darkened knots and honey colored grain, is to treat it with lye and then neutralize it before finishing. A trick I learned from an antiques restoration guy. He would do this to wood used for repairs so it would have a similar aged look. I did it to the paneling in someones man cave/bar to give the place an authentic "old bar" look. Worked a treat. Then he ordered a custom amp from me and had me finish the cabinets the same way.