Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1967 Bassman build
Collapse
X
-
"If that's where the Bassman was mixing its channels before, it'll do fine for your modded channel. You needn't add a cathode driver for the EQ stack, just swap out the existing caps for a couple 0.022's, a 33K or 56K slope resistor, and 500 pF or 1000 pF treble cap. Replace the 8200R with a 25K pot for midrange & there you go."
Leo what is your take on the 500 pF or 1000 pF treble cap vs. the 250 (0.00025) cap on the 5F6-A schematic?It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....
Comment
-
Originally posted by Randall View PostLeo what is your take on the 500 pF or 1000 pF treble cap vs. the 250 (0.00025) cap on the 5F6-A schematic?This isn't the future I signed up for.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Randall View PostYes, I have read that article before. I wonder which parts you would recommend. Pretty sure I will put a "normal" bias circuit in it with a 100uF/100v cap. Never understood why you would put a 50v cap in a circuit that supplies -50v.
I am drawn to Leo's idea of a 5F6A in the bass channel. No mid control in the input jack for me, tho. I never have liked that. Maybe in the back though, where there are already two extra holes.The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
Comment
-
Actually a 50v cap in a 50v circuit would be fine. E-caps are rated for "working voltage", meaning a 400 WV cap is fine in a 400v circuit. They also have a surge rating which is a higher voltage. That covers things like power up when the tubes are not warm and the B+ goes high.
What I see as a problem is where Fender specifies a 50v cap in a circuit delivering -55v to the tubes. Both numbers printed on the same schematic.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Comment
-
Well, we're getting there. Sockets and filament wiring are in, brass control plate almost filled in, board mostly done, filter board almost done. I wised up on this build and will mount the transformers and AC cord last, makes flipping the chassis over and over to get to the other stuff much easier. Waiting on a few resistor values, and then the rest gets wired.
It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....
Comment
-
I use green 18 ga. solid cloth covered for filaments and grounds, and 22 ga. solid cloth covered for everything else. I use red for HV and preamp plates, yellow for grids and tone controls, blue for cathodes, etc. I like it better than the standard Fender all yellow wiring. Also, grey fiber board, no more black for me!It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....
Comment
-
Originally posted by Randall View PostI use green 18 ga. solid cloth covered for filaments and grounds, and 22 ga. solid cloth covered for everything else. I use red for HV and preamp plates, yellow for grids and tone controls, blue for cathodes, etc. I like it better than the standard Fender all yellow wiring. Also, grey fiber board, no more black for me!The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Randall View PostHere is a before shot of the chassis from the black lagoon.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44201[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]44202[/ATTACH]The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
Comment
-
Good point.
Randall: You sure that ain't a Twin Reverb OT? My Bassman came with one...
Mike: You should see a Bassman 100 OT!
Justin"Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
"Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
"All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -
Comment
-
Originally posted by Randall View PostI use green 18 ga. solid cloth covered for filaments and grounds, and 22 ga. solid cloth covered for everything else. I use red for HV and preamp plates, yellow for grids and tone controls, blue for cathodes, etc. I like it better than the standard Fender all yellow wiring. Also, grey fiber board, no more black for me!
nosajsoldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!
Comment
Comment