Greets.
I am building up a 100 watt clone - either superlead or 2203 - I haven't decided quite yet... thinking of a switchable version to have both - anyway...
I sourced the chassis from Tube Amp Doctor... and for the indicator light, they had only one version (that I saw) that will work with their chassis/control plates without modification.
However, the pilot light is for 110V / US. TAD page here, TAD Pilot Lamp, states I could use a 56k 5Watt to use 220VAC with.
I seem to have little choice here without chewing up the control plates to put in a larger one... So would I simply need to add that 56K resistor in series with one side of the pilot light? I assume it matters not which side, but I must admit I am unsure if the pilot light is to go in series with the live, or if it needs to see live and neutral. I typically have always used 6.2V and ran the heaters through it. Marshall schematics suggest that it needs to see live and neutral. Better safe the sorry
Sorry for my ignorance here.
Here is the schematic I am using... Marshall 1959 - at least for the power section. So live goes to the fuse/power switch before it reaches the primary, where neutral goes right to the primary. So if I need to attach this pilot to live and neutral, I'll have to rewire a bit.
Thanks
I am building up a 100 watt clone - either superlead or 2203 - I haven't decided quite yet... thinking of a switchable version to have both - anyway...
I sourced the chassis from Tube Amp Doctor... and for the indicator light, they had only one version (that I saw) that will work with their chassis/control plates without modification.
However, the pilot light is for 110V / US. TAD page here, TAD Pilot Lamp, states I could use a 56k 5Watt to use 220VAC with.
I seem to have little choice here without chewing up the control plates to put in a larger one... So would I simply need to add that 56K resistor in series with one side of the pilot light? I assume it matters not which side, but I must admit I am unsure if the pilot light is to go in series with the live, or if it needs to see live and neutral. I typically have always used 6.2V and ran the heaters through it. Marshall schematics suggest that it needs to see live and neutral. Better safe the sorry
Sorry for my ignorance here.
Here is the schematic I am using... Marshall 1959 - at least for the power section. So live goes to the fuse/power switch before it reaches the primary, where neutral goes right to the primary. So if I need to attach this pilot to live and neutral, I'll have to rewire a bit.
Thanks
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