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I had built an amp with a steel chassis. I used self tapping screws. so there is no nut on the inside of the chassis. The benefit is that the screw shank is fairly far from the nearest tube pin, so even if the pin bends over a bit it has no chance of shorting to the screw.
A current project, I got an aluminum chassis, so no chance of using self tapping screws, at least not on this one, chassis is too soft. I bought a hardware kit from an amp parts vendor. With the socket bolted on, the edge of the nut is too close to the tube pins.
So, to the question: I found Cinch new old stock 9 pin sockets for 6 bucks. The bottom of these sockets has very very thick phenolic that would stick up from the bottom of the chassis, so the pins are actually above where the nut holds the socket in. But the problem is, the wiring would have like another 1/2" to travel before it hits the chassis, to run along the chassis, then up to the turret board.
Is this 1/2" or so extra wire length going to cause problems? Should I try to shellac the nut or maybe heat shrink the pin connection?
A current project, I got an aluminum chassis, so no chance of using self tapping screws, at least not on this one, chassis is too soft. I bought a hardware kit from an amp parts vendor. With the socket bolted on, the edge of the nut is too close to the tube pins.
So, to the question: I found Cinch new old stock 9 pin sockets for 6 bucks. The bottom of these sockets has very very thick phenolic that would stick up from the bottom of the chassis, so the pins are actually above where the nut holds the socket in. But the problem is, the wiring would have like another 1/2" to travel before it hits the chassis, to run along the chassis, then up to the turret board.
Is this 1/2" or so extra wire length going to cause problems? Should I try to shellac the nut or maybe heat shrink the pin connection?
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