I need a couple of chassis made for some amp designs I've come up with. Anyone know of a chassis maker who's good and will be around for a while?
Nothing off-off-the-shelf will work.
Well you can always buy a sheet of Aluminium, some tin snips, a steel ruler, some scribes, a point punch (to line up drill holes), some chassis punches, a pop rivet gun and some assorted pop rivets, a nice heavy vice for your workbench, and get some metal drill bits for your drill, and use a bit of 4 x 2 nailed (or clamped with some decent size G clamps) down to your work bench for the folding, and do what I did.
Then you'll have everything you need to make another one later, (or practice making them until you like what you make).
On this one, I used a lighter-gauge (0.7mm) Aluminium, so it was easier to work with, and I double-folded the edges for extra rigidity, and added wide flanges to the end caps to allow for double-plating around the chassis/cabinet mounting holes.
Nice work Tubeswell! Thanks for the reply and information.
The transformers in this design are heavy so I need something of a thickness that would be hard to work with by hand, and I'd like welded corners. One of my designs uses a slanted side like the face of a blackface era Fender, but blank (without holes for sockets, transformers, pots or switches).
Nice work Tubeswell! Thanks for the reply and information.
The transformers in this design are heavy so I need something of a thickness that would be hard to work with by hand, and I'd like welded corners. One of my designs uses a slanted side like the face of a blackface era Fender, but blank (without holes for sockets, transformers, pots or switches).
My design works well with heavy trannies. The ones I mounted on here were monsters, and they were both stand-up (i.e. side-loading) on the chassis rear plate. But with the double-folding and riveting, the chassis is very tight and rigid.
Attached Files
Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)
"I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo
Nice work Tubeswell! Thanks for the reply and information.
The transformers in this design are heavy so I need something of a thickness that would be hard to work with by hand, and I'd like welded corners. One of my designs uses a slanted side like the face of a blackface era Fender, but blank (without holes for sockets, transformers, pots or switches).
I have used KomboKing http://www.komboking.worldbreak.com/index.html chassis on a couple of occasions for custom work. He uses .090 Aluminum and has all welded ends. Fantastic quality and very reasonable prices. Mike at KomboKing has had some personal tragedies recently so I am not sure of his working status, so email him and see if he can build something for you.
This one of his chassis with the fender Slanted front.
I have used KomboKing http://www.komboking.worldbreak.com/index.html chassis on a couple of occasions for custom work. He uses .090 Aluminum and has all welded ends. Fantastic quality and very reasonable prices. Mike at KomboKing has had some personal tragedies recently so I am not sure of his working status, so email him and see if he can build something for you.
This one of his chassis with the fender Slanted front.
Good luck...
Casey4s,
Thanks. That slant front style would be perfect.
I have one of KomboKing's chassis I got a couple of years ago, it's very well made and I intended to use him again for these projects. But I heard he stopped making chassis because of these tragedies I read about on his site. I don't want to bother him in his mourning as I know all too well, it's been 5 years since I lost my wife, the grief almost killed me. I hope he pulls through.
I have one of KomboKing's chassis I got a couple of years ago, it's very well made and I intended to use him again for these projects. But I heard he stopped making chassis because of these tragedies I read about on his site. I don't want to bother him in his mourning as I know all too well, it's been 5 years since I lost my wife, the grief almost killed me. I hope he pulls through.
Sorry for your loss too. My wife of 31 years passed away just 3 years ago so I understnad his (and your) grief all too well.
Bless you both...
PS: That slant chassis went into the amp in my Avatar.
Sorry for your loss too. My wife of 31 years passed away just 3 years ago so I understnad his (and your) grief all too well.
Bless you both...
PS: That slant chassis went into the amp in my Avatar.
There are certain things no one should have to experience, I'm sorry you had to go through it too. Thanks for the understanding.
I went to your Photobucket site. Nice work on that amp! I've seen your other work in the past, a 4x10 combo if I recall correctly, that was also very nice. Great workmanship, woodworking and clean aesthetics. Where did you get the faceplate made?
There are certain things no one should have to experience, I'm sorry you had to go through it too. Thanks for the understanding.
I went to your Photobucket site. Nice work on that amp! I've seen your other work in the past, a 4x10 combo if I recall correctly, that was also very nice. Great workmanship, woodworking and clean aesthetics. Where did you get the faceplate made?
Thanks for the kind comments...
The one on the Avatar amp is what is called "Reverse engraved", the black plastic piece has the actual coloring on the back side, so when it is engraved in reverse from the back the engraved area is then CLEAR, then you just paint the engraved area (on the back) with what ever color paint you want the lettering to be.
I purchase the blank material from the engraver and drill it at the same time as the chassis itself so the holes are perfectly aligned. I also make the little "divits" or "dots" for the numbers from the back side (very carefully) with a dril press so I don't have to pay the engraver to do it. Then take the piece back to my engraver with a 1:1 layout of what I want where and the lettering size. Then the engraver does his thing and gives it back to me to paint and install.
This is one of my 1:1 faceplate layouts (for a Champ) ready for my engraver. I measure to the center of each word from one edge, as per the engravers instructions.
There are several amps, a few tutorials and photo essays there. (along with some personal pics) The text files for the photo essays and tutorials are here at YooHoo http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/casey4s
There are several amps, a few tutorials and photo essays there. (along with some personal pics) The text files for the photo essays and tutorials are here at YooHoo http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/casey4s
That's a very informative site! I like the engraved faceplates for the Bassman and Deluxe, I think I'll go that route. Maybe I'll use brass, engrave the text, buff to a gloss then clear coat it, lots to think about.
Are you saying you offer custom made stainless steel chassis ?
Your website makes no mention of this fact. Any idea of prices and
shipping costs to North America (seeing as you're in China).
Are you saying you offer custom made stainless steel chassis ?
Your website makes no mention of this fact. Any idea of prices and
shipping costs to North America (seeing as you're in China).
Paul P
Sorry for answer so later. Our chassis are not stainless steel, The back and front borad were stainless steel.
The prices of chassiss are USd 10-20,we have about 5-6 kind of chassis, The cost of Dhl is depend on the weight you order, At present we provide handle, corner , tolex, Transform, when you ship them togther , the price is lower
Is there any reason having a chassis laser or water jet cut isn't common?
Only because the equipment is expensive and most shops charge about $4.00 to $5.00 a min for the use of it... and that is just to cut them out not brake bend and weld. etc.
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