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Originally posted by Milnoque
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2.2K is OK.
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R26 can not be a 22K.
2.2K is OK. -
I made this changeOriginally posted by Bruce / Mission Amps View Post
Do I have the polarity right on the caps in the tone stack?Comment
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I'm not sure of the terminology but on a stock Princeton and the old mallory caps theres a black mark on one end of each tone cap marking the foil end, I believe which is the so called negative. On your schematic C3 and C4 have the negative correctly connected.Originally posted by Milnoque View Post
Yes, and C10 and C11 have their foil going to pins 6 and 8 of V4 tube. That's also correct. And physically speaking on the original fender board all 4 of those caps had the black marker foil side pointing to the rear of the chassis.
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Latest RevisionAttached FilesComment
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Man, you are alright! Thanks!!! That one might be chopped on the left, might have to re-export one last time. Freaking awesome work!Originally posted by Milnoque View PostComment
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Revision revision
Hey PeaveyBandit.
I see we graduated from Junior Member to regular Member together. Let's party!!!Attached FilesComment
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And C26 is backwards too. Positive goes to ground.Originally posted by PeaveyBandit View Post
There is no polarity on coupling caps so don't worry about those at ALL... only the electrolytic caps.Comment
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Forgive a total newbie question please. Those caps that I have listed with a voltage value included are my electrolytics, right? If so, the rest of the caps need not have polarity indication. Is this correct?Originally posted by Bruce / Mission Amps View Post
It's obvious to me that I will understand this stuff much better just by building my amp, but I would like to get the drawing done now so I can move on.
I'll fix C26. Which other cap(s) are reversed? Should I remove the polarity indication from the caps without voltage ratings listed?
Thanks in advance. I'm enjoying this process.Comment
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I know usually only the electrolytics are indicated such as the 20/20/20/20 filter cap in this case and the 25uf/25v bypass caps but I also know some of the tone caps like the old mallorys do install with the foil one way. I've replaced those caps with new modern caps and they didn't seem to matter. The only ones I wouldn't worry about are the coupling caps like the ceramic discs like the .01, 0.2s and the 250 and 500pf caps. Those wouldn't matter. Although I yield to anything Bruce might comment on. He knows more than I do, I can assure you of that.Comment
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PeaveyBandit,
Have you selected a reverb tank for your amp? I thought it might be useful to stick the accutronics model number in.Comment
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Hmm, good question. Yes I have but the specs for a fender tank should always be 8-10ohms input and 2250ohms output. That value might vary by a few ohms but that is the style tank you want. They will usually also say "for fender". Otherwise you might get bad results.
The two spring is usually what goes in the amps and the deeper 3 spring goes in the outboard reverb units because they have a DWELL control and can tone down the deeper fuller 3 spring. But there's a catch. They also make both of these in two varieties based on the type of springs and metal alloys used. One is the standard long decay and the other is a "medium decay". So I ordered the medium decay 3 spring simply for my own preferences.
Here's a great listing of the specs and part numbers
http://www.michaeltone.com/Accutronics.htm
I wish I could say with authority which one is the absolute best choice.... but here's one accutronics page with the TYPE 4 unit which is what I think you want.
http://www.accutronicsreverb.com/Type4.htm
What's cool is how below that photo it breaks out how the Accutronics part number is built.
So the first three digits of a reverb unit you might want could be "4AB"Comment
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I don't understand how to select digit 5. The rest makes sense to me.
4AB2?1BComment
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