good chassis selection?

[daz]

I need a chassis for a new build with 4 EL84's. i'd love a precut chassis, but i know i'm never going to find one that has the exact holes i need so i guess i'm going to get an aluminum blank. Problem is, i can't seem to find one in the right dimensions or thickness. And if i do the thickness is too thin. (.04 at tubesandmore) Other places don't have the right dimensions. Who has the best selection/ I've tried several places including mojo, antique electronics, turretboards.com, angela. Any suggestions? Oh, and while i'm here, what is your opinion on hammond PT's. And reaon a PT form any maker wouldn't be as good as any other as long as the required specs are there?

[tubeswell]

DIY?

Hiya daz

When all else fails you can bend up your own and get exactly what you want (within limits). I found 1.2mm (18 Gauge) Aluminium sheetmetal is just at the edge of my brute strength ability to bend by hand (with a few carefully chosen taps of the claw hammer), and it has the necessary sturdiness to make a rigid chassis that can take heaps of weight. I have just started using the stuff from the factory that has a durable plastic film coating laminated on one side, and do all the drilling and bending with this stuff attached, then rip it off when I'm done. So long as you're careful, it seems to prevent unwanted scratches during the rough and tumble phase.

I don't have a proper rig to do sheetmetal bending so I nail a bit of dressed 4 x 2 to the top of my sturdy workbench with the sheetmetal in between and use the 4 x 2 as the fulcrum behind each bend. Scribe the metal where you want to bend it and your'e ready to go. I do the bending so as to avoid taping and bending on the surface panel, as that's the only bit that gets to be seen at the end. I use 1/8" pop rivets to stick it all together. Then I tap out the rivet pins to avoid them rattling away.

The pic attached shows the plastic peel-off laminate (the white stuff on the outside of the chassis). Don't be fooled by the raggedy plastic coating and hammer marks on the plastic - the drilling is very neat and tidy underneath and the aluminium doesn't seem to get scratched.

[daz]

Thanks, but i have no place to do that. no workbench or any of that. Plus i really don't even relish the ide of cutting the holes, so that would be way too much.

[PRNDL]

There's a chassis builder on eBay that does custom work with fairly thick metal. The prices were fairly reasonable.

http://myworld.ebay.com/dawnpacobell...:X:RTQ:US:1181

[kldguitar]

I don't know which is general chssis

There's a chassis builder on eBay that does custom work with fairly thick metal. The prices were fairly reasonable.

http://myworld.ebay.com/dawnpacobell...:X:RTQ:US:1181

I don't know where is general chassis, different design different position of tube, the size of chassis is different, at same time, the hole of tube is different too

[PRNDL]

There are currently three blank chassis on eBay by that seller - Princeton Reverb, Deluxe Reverb and 5e3.

http://instruments.search.ebay.com/_...sZdawnpacobell

[kldguitar]

I think 1.2mm Aluminium is too thin

Hiya daz

When all else fails you can bend up your own and get exactly what you want (within limits). I found 1.2mm (18 Gauge) Aluminium sheetmetal is just at the edge of my brute strength ability to bend by hand (with a few carefully chosen taps of the claw hammer), and it has the necessary sturdiness to make a rigid chassis that can take heaps of weight. I have just started using the stuff from the factory that has a durable plastic film coating laminated on one side, and do all the drilling and bending with this stuff attached, then rip it off when I'm done. So long as you're careful, it seems to prevent unwanted scratches during the rough and tumble phase.

I don't have a proper rig to do sheetmetal bending so I nail a bit of dressed 4 x 2 to the top of my sturdy workbench with the sheetmetal in between and use the 4 x 2 as the fulcrum behind each bend. Scribe the metal where you want to bend it and your'e ready to go. I do the bending so as to avoid taping and bending on the surface panel, as that's the only bit that gets to be seen at the end. I use 1/8" pop rivets to stick it all together. Then I tap out the rivet pins to avoid them rattling away.

The pic attached shows the plastic peel-off laminate (the white stuff on the outside of the chassis). Don't be fooled by the raggedy plastic coating and hammer marks on the plastic - the drilling is very neat and tidy underneath and the aluminium doesn't seem to get scratched.

I think 1.2 mm aluminium board is too thin to support the OTP and PT, It is enough for tube , but not good for OTP and PT.espcially, when you drill many holes on it

[daz]

I agree. I finally placed my order yesterday in fact, and the one i got is almost twice that at .09

.09"=2.286mm

[kldguitar]

How much it is ?

I agree. I finally placed my order yesterday in fact, and the one i got is almost twice that at .09

.09"=2.286mm

How much it is total include cost of shippment? where you buy it? from ebay?

[daz]

I got it from turretboards.com. I can't tell you what the shipping was because i bought it with a bunch of other parts, so shipping for the chassis itself i can't say. But the chassis was $37.50. It's a standard type that could be used for either a head or front mounted control combo. 17x2.5x6.5 or thereabouts. 2nd one down on the chassis page.

[kldguitar]

Thanks. It is expensive

I got it from turretboards.com. I can't tell you what the shipping was because i bought it with a bunch of other parts, so shipping for the chassis itself i can't say. But the chassis was $37.50. It's a standard type that could be used for either a head or front mounted control combo. 17x2.5x6.5 or thereabouts. 2nd one down on the chassis page.

Thanks. it is expensive ,Is it blank, or drilled?In china, it is only half price